DIY Swirl/Vortex Filter

[AZ Red]

Well, I already shared it on a long-dead thread, but this is how I made my swirl filter:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/posts/7571699

It definitely removes a LOT of debris and particulate from my water, but I really don't know how much. Currently, it's my pre-filter for my Total Pond bio-filter/UV sterilizer, which does give me crystal-clear water.

That said, are there any math/engineering geeks here that can help optimize efficiency? I'm looking to modify and/or replace the filter, but would like to figure out how to do it "right", not just functional.

AZR

 

[Ilawis]

Sorry mate it's a bit hard to tell what design you have made just on the words any chance of some photos?

 

[AZ Red]

Well the pictures aren't great; apparently the camera on my iPhone is acting up.

The first is looking down into the filter, and the second is a side view.

I have a magdrive 18 pushing about 6.5' head through 1.5", check valve, and ball valve into the filter, and reduced through 2 1" bushings (I think, I may have used ¾"). I am using 2" for the outflow, and 1" for the overflow. Underneath the funnel is a 1" clean out drain.
The outflow drains into a sump using a Rio 3100 to pump through 1" to the UV filter before returning to the pond, and the sump also has a 1" overflow returning to the pond.

It isn't pretty, and the equipment is not yet in a permanent location, but it's functional.

the more that I describe it, I'm realizing just how many variables I have.

Sorry mate it's a bit hard to tell what design you have made just on the words any chance of some photos?

 

[AZ Red]

I guess it helps if I upload the photos...

Well the pictures aren't great; apparently the camera on my iPhone is acting up.

The first is looking down into the filter, and the second is a side view.

I have a magdrive 18 pushing about 6.5' head through 1.5", check valve, and ball valve into the filter, and reduced through 2 1" bushings (I think, I may have used ¾"). I am using 2" for the outflow, and 1" for the overflow. Underneath the funnel is a 1" clean out drain.
The outflow drains into a sump using a Rio 3100 to pump through 1" to the UV filter before returning to the pond, and the sump also has a 1" overflow returning to the pond.

It isn't pretty, and the equipment is not yet in a permanent location, but it's functional.

the more that I describe it, I'm realizing just how many variables I have.

 

[Ilawis]

Moving the out flow away from the centre and slowing down your vortex should help
only way I can see to slow down your vortex is to slow down your pump that I can see or restrict your intake into the filter with a valve
You could try adding micro bubbles to it but you would need to find a way to remove the bubbles and surface gunk before it goes down your outflow or it will just give you a kinda slick on your pond (skimming check out how a skimmer works)

 

[AZ Red]

I do have a ball valve restricting the inflow at maybe ⅔ or ¾ closed. I would replace the pump with a magdrive 12, but the 18 is necessary for the AP system when it's connected.

I would like to keep my flow around 1000gph (ideal flow for the UV filter I guess, as well as 1.5 turnover/hr), which is about where the valve is adjusted, but I would like to build another filter which could turn over more water as my stocking increases.

I guess I must be confused, because I thought the water at the center of the surface was moving the slowest. Same RPM as outside, but much shorter circumference/distance per revolution, or at least that was my logic...

 

[Ilawis]

I guess I must be confused, because I thought the water at the center of the surface was moving the slowest. Same RPM as outside, but much shorter circumference/distance per revolution, or at least that was my logic...

It is but what I'm referring to is the amount of time it takes for the water to go from inlet to outlet
The more time the water takes to go through the filter the more heavy waste it removes

 

[AZ Red]

ok, the picture didn't really do the filter justice. The water inlets are about 15" lower than the drain outlet. There is probably about 8gal. of water being forced up to the drain, if that helps.

Yeah, I get the part about the longer it takes, the more effective it is, but that's part of why I'm trying to build a new filter. I'm going to need to filter probably somewhere around 1800gph eventually. Unfortunately, a settling tank isn't practical or feasible for my purposes.

 

[Ilawis]

There is another type of filter that would be able to do that volume it has the inlet on one side of a tank and outlet on the other side both near the top, the water rapidly moves over a grate/stiff netting and the water drops the waste under the grate and settles out of the water
It's a very simple system to make and from what I've been told it's effective especially with high flow rates

 

[AZ Red]

Kind of like an overgrown wet/dry filter?

Do you have any links to diagrams or builds?