I am going to build a stand and canopy for my new 300 wide tank (96x30x25). I'll log all the progress here. I've always been pretty handy but I've never built anything of this magnitude. I just went out and bought all the saws and am figuring out how to make a nice level workspace, then I'll be ready to get started.
I'm hoping to make it pretty close in style to Joe's 220 - http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92507 - but nobody at Home Depot has any idea about any of my questions. Before I go buying wood, I figured I'd just come and ask here.
1) Is a 2x4 skeleton like Joe's, except with one extra joist for the last 2 feet, strong enough for a 300 gallon glass tank full of water? I figure it's over 3000 pounds. I don't need a wide middle opening for sump access, as my 125g sump will slide in and out through one end - so I can have a support and joist right in the center, giving me five equally spaced joists from end to end.
2) Are wood screws holding the wood together strong enough or should I get those metal brackets to support the joists?
3) What kind of screws, and should I pre-drill holes for them if I'm just screwing 2x4 to 2x4?
4) Any recommendations on wood for finishing? I've been told that oak is easier to stain than birch or maple. This is key for me because I plan to stain it a very dark color and don't want it to be uneven or cheap looking. I want it to match my kitchen, which is shown below. A sheet of oak ply is a bunch more expensive than Maple or birch, but maple cabinet doors actually cost a bit more. So I'm cool with any wood really, but I'm not sure I'm a fan of how wide the graining is with oak. I suppose I should just find out what wood the cabinets are and match that.
I wouldn't mind going with 2x6 for the top spans if that helps cover the 30 inch width. The cost is no big deal. What I do worry about with 2x6 is that then that forces me to leave at least that much space, plus the 2-3" for the trim, above the top of the cabinet doors, and I think that might look kind of goofy. Then again, there's no real reason why I couldn't just have the doors overlap the 2x6 by 2 inches anyway so that they still cover the whole area from bottom trim to top trim.
I also have no problem using 4x4 except that if I don't notch it I end up with 2(4x4)+2(2x4) width subtracted from the 30" width, leaving me without much space to store anything inside the sump. Plus, I'm not convinced that just having a 4x4 in the corner really gives me that much more strength than the doubled up 2x4s like in Joe's design.
Thoughts?
I'm hoping to make it pretty close in style to Joe's 220 - http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92507 - but nobody at Home Depot has any idea about any of my questions. Before I go buying wood, I figured I'd just come and ask here.
1) Is a 2x4 skeleton like Joe's, except with one extra joist for the last 2 feet, strong enough for a 300 gallon glass tank full of water? I figure it's over 3000 pounds. I don't need a wide middle opening for sump access, as my 125g sump will slide in and out through one end - so I can have a support and joist right in the center, giving me five equally spaced joists from end to end.
2) Are wood screws holding the wood together strong enough or should I get those metal brackets to support the joists?
3) What kind of screws, and should I pre-drill holes for them if I'm just screwing 2x4 to 2x4?
4) Any recommendations on wood for finishing? I've been told that oak is easier to stain than birch or maple. This is key for me because I plan to stain it a very dark color and don't want it to be uneven or cheap looking. I want it to match my kitchen, which is shown below. A sheet of oak ply is a bunch more expensive than Maple or birch, but maple cabinet doors actually cost a bit more. So I'm cool with any wood really, but I'm not sure I'm a fan of how wide the graining is with oak. I suppose I should just find out what wood the cabinets are and match that.
I wouldn't mind going with 2x6 for the top spans if that helps cover the 30 inch width. The cost is no big deal. What I do worry about with 2x6 is that then that forces me to leave at least that much space, plus the 2-3" for the trim, above the top of the cabinet doors, and I think that might look kind of goofy. Then again, there's no real reason why I couldn't just have the doors overlap the 2x6 by 2 inches anyway so that they still cover the whole area from bottom trim to top trim.
I also have no problem using 4x4 except that if I don't notch it I end up with 2(4x4)+2(2x4) width subtracted from the 30" width, leaving me without much space to store anything inside the sump. Plus, I'm not convinced that just having a 4x4 in the corner really gives me that much more strength than the doubled up 2x4s like in Joe's design.
Thoughts?