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Gershom

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I haven’t seen any rules prohibiting discussion about specific brands, but if it’s not ok, sorry.

I am interested in Swisstropicals filter foam and wanted to know what people think about it.
Is it really better than random PU foam? I did order a couple sponge filters and the foam is more coarse and stiff than I expected (much more than mattress foam, for instance).

I also did flow testing on the “jetlifters” he sells, but that’s another topic.

Is it true that foam has much greater surface area than small gravel, or even sand? How much surface area is needed? Can you have too much?
 
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AR1

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I haven’t seen any rules prohibiting discussion about specific brands, but if it’s not ok, sorry.
You are correct. Anyone can discuss anything about every/any brand, there is no rule prohibiting it.
 
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jjohnwm

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Poret foam (the brand Swisstropicals sells) is my personal favourite. It outlasts every other brand I have tried, and by a huge margin. I have pieces that are at least 15 years old that are still stable and usable. I don't baby it, either...when used for biofiltration I don't touch it that often, but I also use sheets cut to size for my primary mechanical filtration, meaning that it gets squeezed, rinsed and generally abused on a regular basis. The stuff lasts.

I have no link, but do a search and you will probably find a comparison chart that shows the relative surface area per unit volume of just about everything that is typically used for biofiltration. The foam is way up near the top, far better than most of the fancy boutique media that are in vogue today. If you buy it in the large columns, 6x6x19 inches, that come pre-drilled down the centre for an airlift, you can cut them into smaller pieces for smaller tanks or leave it in one piece to create a monster sponge column filter that can handle the largest bioloads imaginable.

You can't have "too much" surface area for biofiltration, but it's very easy to have more than you actually need. This isn't a bad thing; if your tank has two sponge filters that are larger than necessary for the bacterial colony that your bioload supports, it lets you take one out to get an instant cycle in a new tank. The original tank will quickly build back up to a full colony, within a day or two, and the new tank will also.

I don't know anything about the jetlifters; I make my own airlifts with a length of PVC tubing, swiss cheesed along the entire length that is inside the foam, and usually extending almost to the surface of the tank. Use 1.25 or even 1.5 inch tubing, perhaps slicing lengthwise along the inside of the pre-drilled hole in the sponge to ease insertion. Close off the bottom end of the tubing with a cap, or silicone a ceramic tile to the bottom to close it off and also to weight it down.
 

Gershom

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John, this is what I found with jetlifters and similar:
1) Flow testing with cheap (but new) air pumps shows no difference between the jetlifter and a bare vinyl or silicone tube.
2) Both of those did much better (higher water flow) than an airstone!, but maybe only because the airstone was large enough to block the water coming past it.
3) The jetlifter has about 30 tiny holes spaced around the riser but air only comes out from a few(not lots of tiny bubbles like I expected).
4) If you have multiple holes all the way up the riser, it doesn’t make equal intake all the way up, and might even allow air to exit those holes.
5) For consistent water intake through a sponge, drill a round hole all the way through (as the swisstropicals guy does), but only put the riser part way down (equal to half the diameter of the sponge; typically about 2 inches). There also needs to be a cover on the bottom of the sponge, preventing water just coming in the hole. And NO side holes in the riser, which surprised me too.
That makes the water path through the sponge approximately the same distance from any of the surface to the center hole.
 
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FJB

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The Poret foam (from swisstropicals) outlasts both Fluval Aquaclear branded replacements, as well as no brand replacements sold for the purpose. By far. And that is squishing multiple times once a week for years.
Regarding comparison of surface area, who really cares? It is not important as long as one has enough material. The sponges are lighter than other materials and have enough surface. That is a major advantage. And no, it is not possible to have too much area for biological filtration, but that does not mean the more one uses, the more bacteria. Up to a point, available surface area is colonized; beyond that, it is the tank’s bioload what determine populations, provided sufficient area. Good luck.
 

jjohnwm

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John, this is what I found with jetlifters and similar:
1) Flow testing with cheap (but new) air pumps shows no difference between the jetlifter and a bare vinyl or silicone tube.
2) Both of those did much better (higher water flow) than an airstone!, but maybe only because the airstone was large enough to block the water coming past it.
3) The jetlifter has about 30 tiny holes spaced around the riser but air only comes out from a few(not lots of tiny bubbles like I expected).
4) If you have multiple holes all the way up the riser, it doesn’t make equal intake all the way up, and might even allow air to exit those holes.
5) For consistent water intake through a sponge, drill a round hole all the way through (as the swisstropicals guy does), but only put the riser part way down (equal to half the diameter of the sponge; typically about 2 inches). There also needs to be a cover on the bottom of the sponge, preventing water just coming in the hole. And NO side holes in the riser, which surprised me too.
That makes the water path through the sponge approximately the same distance from any of the surface to the center hole.
Going one at a time:

1) Why am I not surprised? I didn't believe all the hype on the ST site about jetlifters, but I assumed there would be at least some advantage. Marketing...:headshake

2) I did some half-assed test comparisons years ago and was surprised to find that as well, although the bare tube was only superior to the airstone in smaller size airlifts, nothing bigger than about 3/4 - 1 inch ID. In my 1.25 and 1.5 inch pipes the airstone was far superior; I think that's only because the column of airstone bubbles is wider and fills up the whole tube. With a bare airline, at least with smaller air volumes, I think the big bubbles just fly up the center of the big tube and allow water to slip past them and remain in the tube. I had no easy way to measure actual air volume being used, so no way to know if the airstone was more efficient per unit volume of air; honestly didn't care too much either, since I am a firm believer in an oversized central air pump so I always have air to spare.

3) Refer to #1 above. I think those unused holes are referred to as "marketing holes". :)

4) I wondered about that, but in the end it doesn't matter. The unit does what I wanted it to do; if the flow through various parts were uneven, then first: So what? :) And second: Any inconsistency in flow through the sponge would also result in uneven clogging of the sponge, which would in turn automatically even out the flow throughout as the resistance built up higher in the areas with initially higher flow. As far as air escaping, well, that can absolutely happen and is very easy to see. All it takes to prevent it is to drill each of the holes at an upward angle from the outside of the pipe; this puts the inside of the hole higher than the outside, and prevents air escaping.

5) That is so simple and obvious; I hate that I didn't see it myself. :) But...it holds true only when the height of the sponge and the diameter are roughly equal. Many of my sponge filters are over 12 inches high, and I even use the full 19-inch tall column in some of them. Going down halfway in a tall column like that is not going to equalize intake along the entire height of a 4 or 6 inch wide column sponge. I agree about the cap, not only to prevent unfiltered water flowing through but also so that you can rescue plecos, kuhli loaches and others who are psychologically incapable of seeing a hole without jamming their spiny little butts into it and refusing to back out.

Honestly, I used the interior swiss-cheesed full-length pipe in my original DIY sponge filters made from the cheap soggy foam that was and is so commonly available. The stuff was so limp and formless that it needed the rigidity of the pipe "spine" just to stand up after a short time. When I found Poret I continued with the same design because I was quite happy with it and saw no need to change. Is it the absolute epitome of efficiency? Beats me; I doubt it, but again...so what? It's more than adequate for the intended purpose. It also makes for very easy quick-cleaning of the sponge; just stand it on the grass, drop the garden hose down the centre hole, and then squeeze the foam repeatedly while the water runs out, going the opposite direction to that in which it flows during filter operation and carrying out dirt.

My design isn't good...it's good enough! :)
 
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Gershom

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John, for the tall sponge filter, the diameter I meant is width, not height, so the riser still only goes in for half of that diameter. And you are right that all the details probably don’t matter, but if one is trying for economy of cost, appearance, etc, then yes you can have too much filter, in that sense.
 

duanes

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IMG_8768.jpegIMG_8795.jpegIMG_8812.jpegIMG_1743.jpeg
I installed Porrett Foam as a filter wall between planted section of my 125 gal sump, back in 2020.
Since then it has held up to monthy hose downs, and normal use, and abuse..
The sump has a resident population of shrimp and snails that also keep the foam policed up.
Thes are some recent sump shots.
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The sump filters a 180 dal tank with a 1500 gph Sicce pump.
IMG_3169.jpeg
 

Sassafras

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I use Poret brand foam in sump filters on my larger tanks. Yes, it stings a little to pay the price, but this stuff is tough! When it is time to clean the filters, I rinse my foam slabs with a hose and whack them as hard as I can several times against a concrete wall knock the water and muck out. About 5-6 rinses and poundings and they are clean enough to put back to work. I have done this with the same foam for over 10 years. I don't know of any other "off the shelf" foam that could take that kind of punishment. I also like the known graded pore sizes so I know how much resistance I'll have by ordering my pore sizes largest to smallest.
 
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