Thanks! That’s sort of where I landed -I would continue to monitor your perimeters. I used to do a lot more water changes than I do now. Testing a few times per week now with text strips to monitor ph, gh, and nitrates. I'm on city water and also use a test strip prior to putting the water in the tank to ensure no crazy swings from the municipal source. Generally out of the tap I have liquid rock living in Michigan, high pH and gh.
I also add some buffer to the recommended level and Seachem safe. You are doing everything right, just keep an eye on it.
Absolutely, it affected them. I’m hoping now that they survive and I can avoid such large swings in the future.The difference between 7.8 and 8.2 is concerning.
That’s what my wife and I were wondering also - something I can’t test for. Maybe a chemical or something in the well water?I’ve said it already, and I’ll say it one more time, 0.4 difference in source and tank pH is not the issue. By the time you do a 40% change the difference is no longer 0.4. It’s more like 0.1 if that. This is not pH shock. There is something else going on.
Chasing pH using chemicals is a lot more risky than the difference you are working with.
I’m sorry that you lost Homer. But he did not die from pH shock a week after your water change.
My suggestion was to put your water change water through a carbon block to mitigate other chemical possibilities.
Thanks for the tip - in the meanwhile, I’ll start running carbon in my canister to take anything else out of the water that might be in there.If you can get your hands on a cheap canister filter, fill it with carbon, cut and connect the python to the intake and outlets and fill slowly to give as much contact time with the carbon as you can.
Alternatively, use a barrel, fill it with the amount of water you want to change and recirculate using a canister or internal power filter filled with carbon only.
Depending on the volume of carbon, change it every 4-6 months worth of weekly exchanges.