Basic Tank Stand Drawing (Reference)

[CLDarnell]

Hello all...

I have seen a few posts recently asking about basic stand construction. So, since the weather is nasty outside, I thought I would make a quick reference drawing for basic stand construction. I would like to add a Part II showing how to skin the outside, add doors etc.

This drawing is for reference only and to give potential DIY types some ideas or inspiration. It's always best to ask the members of MFK for specific advice. If any of the experts have suggestions, please feel free to post!

Here is a screen shot. Click HERE to download a larger, clearer PDF file.

Thanks!

 

[nes999]

By any chance do you work for catipiller? That looks like the same program they use.

 

[CLDarnell]

Hey nes,

No, but it's likely the same program. AutoCad is the most widely use CAD program around. There are some others that are just as good, but this one's been around a long time.

What is your thoughts on the stand? I realize it's over-built, but I was trying to eliminate the use of toe-nailing or using splice plates. If an inexperienced person wanted to build a stand, I think this concept would be simple to make and require only a couple of dollars more in materials versus trying to explain "toe-nailing" with deck screws.

Looking forward to your input...

 

[Clay]

A lot of great effort here Very nice work.

I think the RocketEngineer stand is a bit better for a few reasons. I see his diagram thrown around here a lot, but without credit (not implying anything about you or this stand, just a random thought). Anyway, that's where it comes from.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

The differences are minor, but basic stand templates should be just that.

- I'd prefer to see pocket screws used for their superior joints instead of decking screws straight on.
- No mention of wood glue or industrial adhesive in the joints.
- No lateral stability bracing. A diagonal 2x4 or even a plywood corner screwed into the back.
- I'd prefer to see the joists in the center spaced and attached with 2x4 hangers instead of screwed straight in
- The corner and middle pieces that support from floor to tank are defeating the purpose of the stand. By shortening them a half inch on the top and bottom, they will not touch the floor or plywood top. The reasoning for this is mentioned in the thread above (around post 32), but here's his answer:

The reason the screw strips are shorter is that it prevents them from being part of the load bearing structure. Because they sit above the bottom frame you are assured its the frame sitting on the floor, not the screw strips. They are below the top surface to ensure that plywood or the tank frame sits directly on the upper box, rather then on the screw strips.

Anyway, just a few thoughts. I don't mean to pick it apart - I think it's an excellent cad you made.

 

[CLDarnell]

Hey Clay,

Thank you for the comments. I will incorporate your suggestions today. I didn't intend on getting into the actual assembly too much, but, I guess at this point, why not?

And, good point on the corner post backing board. I will shorten it 1/2" on each end.

I need to add a few more notes. I noticed that I state "over 42" in length". Theoretically, if you have a 10' long tank, you would use the same stand as a 48! I need to clarify that.

Please, keep the comments coming. I want to make this worthy of MFK!

Thanks

 

[Clay]

a standard 4 ft tank is more than ok with a 2x4 span. No need for a center post there. I would change the 42" to 48" as it really isn't necessary to have - unless you are assuming the actual opening of 38" (48" - 7"[3.5"x2] - 3" [1.5"x2] = 38") or around there?

 

[CLDarnell]

Again, thanks Clay.

I put the center support as "optional" for tanks under 48". I agree, I don't think it's needed, but if the builder is going to skin and add doors, it would be nice to have the brace. I need to reword the text...I sort of threw this together during lunch and after work while waiting for the car to warm up lol.

Maybe the best way to approach this is to have a basic stand and a more advanced stand. No need to add materials that aren't needed if the intent is to simply get the tank off the floor.

Thanks Clay!

 

[deeda]

Cliff, I think this may be extremely helpful to someone building their first stand, especially the cut list.

Clay also offers some extremely valid points with his suggested mods. I also used the RocketEngineer stand plan when I built my stand for a 72" 125 tank. I am extremely pleased with the way it turned out.

The link Clay provided was the same one I used when deciding how to build my 1st stand. It was extremely long due to the number of comments posted and queries on specific tank sizes. So having a concise drawing would be very nice.

 

[fox3]

The reason the "screw strips" are cut shorter is to allow for shrinkage in the horizontal members. A 2 x 6 could reduce ~1/4" and a 2 x 4 a proud 1/8". If the legs were to be cut even with the top and bottom overtime they would slowly protude up by a small amount. Wood shrinks lengthwise also but to a lesser extent.

RocketMans design is well thought out but as the saying goes no matter how many times you reinvent the wheel it ends up circular. What he did was a great service for many DIY'ers with minimal build experience and posted it for referral.

CLDarnell did the same thing with a well thought out plan and good intentions.

 

[CLDarnell]

Thank you all. I hope it is useful to someone in the future. If you zoom in on the title block, you'll notice I put "MFK" in the Drawn By field. The ideas in the design were all bits of information picked up here within the hundreds of posts I read through. In reading recent posts though, I thought the cut list would be helpful in helping someone without a lot of experience get a better grasp on how simple something like this is to build in reality!

I haven't made the updates yet or incorporated Clay's suggestions. I have every intention to...but the weather changed my plans the last few days. I hope to get it done in the next day or so and then we can create Part II