Cycling Test - Various Buckets / Results

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jumpingjack

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 18, 2025
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Hey all.

Long time read of monsterfishkeeper, first time poster.

I know that people either love or hate aquariumscience, but I thought I would make an account to share my experience after having just completed 4 different cycling tests over the last fortnight.

For reference, I have a 65 Gallon tank with 2 comet goldfish that I have had for 8 years (filtered by 2x canisters). Given goldfish destroy all plants, and are a hassle in pairing with other tankmates, I recently bought a 40 Gallon which I am going to have some fun with - perhaps a community tank.

Anyways - approximately one month ago I stumbled across aquariumscience and was intrigued. I read all articles on the site, and all comments, etc. Given I was in no rush to cycle my new 40 Gallon, I thought I would put some of his methodologies to the test to fishless cycle the 40 Gallon, as well as 3 other buckets I had lying around.

Note that all the below tests used tap water & natural inoculate (i.e. I did not use any filter media from my old tank). All started with fresh tap water and dechlorinator & brand-new filters.

This is what I set up on the 6th February.

-------------------

1 x 40 Gallon Tank:

  • Substrate: Gravel (2-3 inch)
  • Filters:
    • 4ft undergravel filter with riser tubes connected to 2 Aquael Powerhead 500s
    • 1 large sponge filter with riser tube connected to Aquael Powerhead 2000
  • Inoculate: 1 large tablespoon of each of the below bacteria sources dropped into a sock that I ziptied and stuck with a suction cup infront of the Powerhead 2000 output.
    • Pond Mud (from a local lake with koi)
    • Pond Scum / Detritus (found a quiet area of the lake with a lot of detritus on top layer of pond mud)
    • Organic composted cow manure (local hardware store)
    • Organic potting soil (local hardware store)
    • Dirt from my backyard flower bed
  • Aeration:
    • Jebao MCP Series Smart Crossflow Wavemaker (set it so there was a constant choppy wave)
    • Set all powerheads to face to surface for turbulent movement
  • Daily ammonia source:
    • 10 teaspoons of urine
    • 1/2 teaspoon of high protein koi food (65% protein)
  • Other addition:
    • 1 barley grain sized pinch of high phosphate fertilizer (added day 1 and not again)
    • Baking soda added to tank whenever PH dropped below 7.6 (tried to keep it around 8-8.2 throughout)
  • Heater:
    • Set to 28-30 degrees Celsius throughout
Results:

  • Testing:
    • I have a Seachem Ammonia Alert on the tank which was a dark blue toxic colour from day 2. I also started testing with the API kit for Ammonia after day 3. All tests typically came back with the Ammonia off the charts (8-10PPM+; vial looked blue as opposed to max green indicating heavy ammonia)
    • At day 5, I began testing nitrate as well and was pleased to see nitrate at a dark purple on the API test (5PPM+)
  • Given the speed of which ammonia and nitrate were developing, I decided to increase daily urine to 15 teaspoons which I continued for remainder.
  • At day 8 (14th February), I woke in middle night to go to the bathroom and noticed that the seachem ammonia alert had turned to green. I went back to bed and when I woke I saw that it was bright yellow. I then tested with API which came back with 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites.
  • So for the last 4 days, I dosed 20 teaspoons of urine each night (equivalent to 8-10PPM ammonia) and tested a few hours later and sure enough, Seachem Ammonia Alert was blue and API test was dark green/blue. After 18 HOURS - Ammonia Alert was yellow again and my ammonia and nitrite was again 0. I repeated this for 4 days in a row, which brings me to today (18 Feb).
Again - part of this was a fishless cycling test - and I also wanted to test the capability of a UGF as I had not used this filtration before. Frankly - I am pretty amazed by the results of it all. The tank is processing a HUGE amount of daily ammonia.

So now onto the 3 bucket tests I set up (see photo 1-3 attached).


For the 3 buckets, I followed aquariumscience's 'Rapid Cycling' methodology. Each bucket was filled with 2 gallons (9L) of tap water and dechlorinated. I then used the below new filters for each bucket:

Bucket 1:

  • Filter: 2 small sponge filters ($10 each off Amazon)
Bucket 2:

  • Filter: Homemade sponge filter (I took a spare riser tube that I had for the UGF above and drilled holes in the tube. I then took 20PPI foam and wrapped it around the riser tube and ziptied it in place. I then took an airstone and placed it within the riser).
Bucket 3:

  • Filter: Seachem Tidal 75 (filled with pot scrubbers)
  • Aeration: 2x airstones
For each of the 3 buckets above, I followed the same steps for inoculate as I did for the 40G tank:

  • 1 tablespoon of each of the bacteria sources. For the first 2 buckets I just poured each spoon into the water of the buckets with the sponge filters
  • For the Tidal, I put the bacteria into a sock and placed it in the filter media under the pot scrubbers
I then followed the similar methodology as the 40G, except I used 1 teaspoon of high phosphate fertilizer on day 1 instead of a barley grain.

For ammonia, I put 6 daily teaspoons of urine in the first 2 buckets, and 8 teaspoons of urine in the Tidal bucket. This results in approximately 6-8 PPM in first 2 and 8-10 PPM ammonia in the Tidal 75.

Each bucket had a heater set to 28-30 degrees Celsius and each also had a Seachem Ammonia Alert. As you can expect, all started Day 1 at a heavy toxic blue. Nitrite appeared in the API test in each bucket on days 3-5.

Results:

  • Tidal 75 bucket: Day 6 (ammonia alert was yellow 18 hours after addition of 10PPM of ammonia).
    • There is also a strong layer of brown gunk in the tidal media that has built up in that time. The pot scrubbers have a nice biofilm on each.
  • Homemade sponge filter bucket: Day 7 (ammonia alert turned yellow 18 hours after addition of 8PPM of ammonia).
  • 2 small sponge filters: Day 9 (ammonia alert turned yellow 12 hours after addition of 8PPM of ammonia).
Over the last 3-4 days, I have upped the ammonia to 8 teaspoons of urine in the first 2 buckets and 12 teaspoons in the Tidal. Approximately 3 hours after adding, the Ammonia Alert is dark blue, and API test dark green. After 18 hours, Seachem alert is Yellow in each bucket, and my API test shows no ammonia and no nitrite in each bucket (see photo).


So in summary, over the last 2 weeks, I have cycled 4 different tanks (starting with dechlorinated tap water) with natural inoculate and a lot of urine), and all tanks are now processing 8-10PPM of ammonia daily. They process 2-4PPM of ammonia within 3-5 hours.

I am quite amazed at the speed and success of it. From reading - and from Aquariumscience own testing, it seems the phosphate in human urine is a powerful addition to the daily ammonia source for cycling a tank quickly. This is also confirmed by the blogs control testing which showed the fastest cycling tests (without natural inoculate) to be urine + phosphate.

I now have a LOT of spare cycled filters haha.

Anyways - I thought it was helpful to just share the results of the above tests, as I know I enjoy reading different methods people use!! All I can say is - try it yourself with a bucket of water, a sponge filter, some natural inoculate and your own urine, and see how you go! would love to hear your results.

Also - I have a spare brand new Tidal 110, that I am going to fill with pot scrubbers and run a similar test on starting tomorrow! Will update this thread with results from that as I go.



Would love to hear if anyone else has cycled to a high ammonia load quite rapidly and what were your methods?


Cheers
 

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Interesting in an academic sense. I'm not sure I have ever been in desperate need of a rapidly-cycled new filter without also having several spare sponges in other established tanks, cycled and ready for use. I do remember having made a comment in a long-ago thread about peeing in an aquarium, for which I was gently taken to task by @deeda ; I wonder what she might have to say here? :)

When I first found the aquariumscience site, the first article I read was interesting and presented some new ideas. I thought I had really found something worthwhile; more time spent reading more of the site resulted in a slow steady decline in my admiration of it, which continues to worsen every time I look at it.
 
Interesting in an academic sense. I'm not sure I have ever been in desperate need of a rapidly-cycled new filter without also having several spare sponges in other established tanks, cycled and ready for use. I do remember having made a comment in a long-ago thread about peeing in an aquarium, for which I was gently taken to task by @deeda ; I wonder what she might have to say here? :)

When I first found the aquariumscience site, the first article I read was interesting and presented some new ideas. I thought I had really found something worthwhile; more time spent reading more of the site resulted in a slow steady decline in my admiration of it, which continues to worsen every time I look at it.
Yeah the buckets were purely academic. I have no need for the multiple filters I just cycled haha (it is almost sad to waste good nitrifying bacteria!). Was just to see whether the 'rapid cycling' can work. I am going to take the pot scrubbers out the Tidal 75 I cycled and put them in one of my new canisters that has been running for a few weeks on the goldfish tank. So at least I dont waste them. As I mentioned - I will do another test on weekend with the Tidal 110, and then remove those pot scrubbers and place them in canister as well.

I can't speak highly enough about the urine. It makes complete sense to me as well. Lot of similarities between our urine and fish (relative to pure ammonia added to tank). And makes sense that the phosphate in urine would assist speeding the cycle if added at the start. Lot of good stuff in our urine that nitrifying bacteria eat!!! Exactly why nitrifying bacteria grows so well in human treatment plants. Also - if you have huge aeration, you have no smell that emits from the tank (including with the composted cow manure). The 40G sits in my lounge and I didn't notice it at all over last fortnight. I can imagine that without heavy aeration, it would turn into a bit of a smelly cesspit haha.

Yeah - my post above isn't an endorsement of everything he says, just the results from a test I ran as I was already planning to cycle my 40G tank and I wasn't in a rush. I do think his site - like any internet source to be honest, should be taken with a grain of salt, and when in doubt, run a test with a bucket. Whilst I can't talk to the rest of his site, I can highly attest to his fishless cycling methodology.
 
I should also add - that in my 40G community tank that has just finished cycling - I am going to experiment with aquariumscience's methodology to transition the cycled tank to a 'mature' tank environment.

It basically involves putting more pond mud in a sock in the aquarium, and feeding the aquarium daily with 1 teaspoon of crushed fish fillet and small amounts of ammonia chloride salt. Doing that for a month with the lights on to promote algae growth, and then after the month the tank ''SHOULD'' be crystal clear and after a wipe down of algae on the side and front panels (leaving the back panel as an algae wall), be a very steady, strong state environment for fish.

I am in no rush, and so am excited to trial it to see how it goes!

Will check in with progress updates!
 
@jjohnwm , I honestly can't remember making that comment but then it was either long long ago or my memory is just shot. I am wondering though if it was related to medications a human might be taking, the ick factor or if it was related to the info provided by the aquariumscience misinformation spewing website.
 
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