Taking the DIY gel route

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Rakeboy

Exodon
MFK Member
Aug 9, 2020
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Philippines
In my country gaining access to quality premium food like NLS and Northfin is expensive and hard. Base on my research it seems that Northfin is no longer operating here in the Philippines. Most of the Northfin products that I can order here is too expensive and near in expiry date which is February 2024. Right now I only fed my flowerhorns with Hikari bio gold+, a pellet with lot of fillers and inferior food base on the threads posted over the years in this forum. Now, I planning to go the gel food route since accessibility for premium quality food is impractical and I only keep 3 flowerhorns right now. Base on my research they are omnivores and lean towards to herbivores because most of the strains today is cross with Vieja a herbivore species of cichlid.

The recipe that i am planning to make is:

agar agar
moringa powder
seaweed like nori
azolla
duckweed
hair algae
spirulina
bloodworms or shrimp for protein
vitamin c powder

I am willing to hear for any amendment, suggestion or comment with my current recipe.
 
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RD. RD.
 
I know jjohnwm jjohnwm 's dabbled in homemade gel foods before; perhaps he can provide some help?
 
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I know jjohnwm jjohnwm 's dabbled in homemade gel foods before; perhaps he can provide some help?


At your service... John's Organic AquaGumbo:


Not Repashy; I've tried that and don't see any benefit over my own secret recipe.

I use a mix of whatever is on hand at the time; fish, crickets, grasshoppers, krill, shrimp, nightcrawlers, mayflies, trout chow, commercial aquarium fish food, etc. makes up the protein side, and the veggie side is mostly duckweed, hair algae, sometimes dandelion greens, Hornwort and/or Guppy Grass (Najas) near the end of the summer when I have a glut of those. I think that FINWIN's insect trail mix (love that name!) would be a perfect component. Proportions vary depending upon what I'm feeding. I use way more meaty stuff for my Jelly Cat, but I've also made versions with more greens for things like Giant Goramy, Pacus, etc. Add VitaChem, powdered vitamins, even human vitamins as desired. I make sure nowadays to add some B1 to counteract the effect of Thiaminase-containing foodstuffs.

Chop the stuff up in a (dedicated) blender a bit; mix it up with some unflavoured gelatin, just barely enough to hold it together. You have to experiment a bit to get the right proportions. Let it set up in the fridge, then cut it into appropriate sized chunks and freeze them on trays so that they don't freeze up together. If you offer a chunk that's too big and requires the animal to shake it or bite it apart...it's a giant mess. You want pieces that are easily and quickly swallowed whole. Once they're frozen, I like to freeze individual feeding portions in separate ziploc baggies. Thaw on a plate, not in water.

This also lets me buy and use big bags or tubs of near-expired fish food, even if its in very small granulations which would be useless to me otherwise, since it just goes into the mix.

Not sure what I should call it; I'm kinda leaning towards John's Organic AquaGumbo. I can use a modified version of the Buckley's Cough Syrup motto (It tastes awful, and it works!). Something along the lines of "It stinks...but they eat it!" :)
 
If I was in your shoes, I’d continue to feed bio gold.
 
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BTW - nothing against home made gel foods, just not something that I would feed FH, especially if you have access to bio-gold pellets.

Agreed. Unfortunately FH are also by & large genetic weaklings, with gastrointestinal systems that are prone to digestive issues, often leading to Spironucleus aka Hexamita. IMHO over the long haul ones best approach to meeting their nutritional needs is feeding them a high quality pellet. Not only is there no need to feed the various types of foods that you listed, I would personally never recommend it.
 
BTW - nothing against home made gel foods, just not something that I would feed FH, especially if you have access to bio-gold pellets.
so it is better to fed my fhs with pellets with full of fillers like hikari.
 
RD. RD. I have a huge respect with your opinion and experience in fish nutrition. And also, for what you share with this forum. I just want to know your opinion with this article that i read https://aquariumscience.org/index.php/3-fish-food/ I find it convincing that gel food is the best food one can offer. Knowing that all the ingredients that you will put in the gel food is quality and without terrestrial plant base food. In this site also he claim that NLS is a bad or inferior food compare to other brands. Opposite for what you claimed in this forum. This is the link that he claimed NLS is not a good food. He present charts with distinguishing other brands. https://aquariumscience.org/index.php/3-6-1-dry-fish-food-in-depth/
 
Wow...at one time I had a reasonably good opinion of that writer and his site. This article has changed that drastically; thanks for posting the link.

A dry food that is 25% chicken...with the highest fat content of anything in the comparison...is "obviously the best" just because of high protein. I'd love to know more about how he compares "survivability" of fry fed these various foods. Survivability for how long? Long enough to sell at the fish market? Long enough to approach what is considered a normal lifespan for the species? Or simply long enough to survive the testing?

He states that his gel food mix is 55% protein. That's clearly utter BS...unless he is dehydrating it after he makes it, thus creating his own dry food. Many other fanciful and completely unsubstantiated pronouncements as well.

I am looking forward to RD. RD. responding with his opinions and analysis.
 
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so it is better to fed my fhs with pellets with full of fillers like hikari.

Correct. Have another read of the info in the link that I posted previously. Read the entire thread. Take a look at my midas in that thread, that is still to this day swimming in one of my tanks. I have also owned several FH over the years. Bio Gold is a decent food, it has some fillers, but is superior to most of Hikari formulas. Some fillers are not going to cause your genetically inferior FH to have health issues. It's already hard wired to self destruct on its own. Feeding Hikari Bio Gold is the least of your worries.

He states that his gel food mix is 55% protein. That's clearly utter BS...unless he is dehydrating it after he makes it, thus creating his own dry food. Many other fanciful and completely unsubstantiated pronouncements as well.

Good catch, John. I read that article a couple of years ago, and had a chuckle. Buddy needs to hone up on his math skills.

He states:

  • "Frozen foods – Again, you are paying a lot of money for something which is 90% water. And I have found a lot of frozen food which has defrosted spoiled and been refrozen. This will give fish food poisoning. No research says there is any benefit to frozen food."
Not only is the "no benefit to frozen food" false, but vitamin enriched frozen food is often the ultimate food for species that typically won't eat dry food in captivity, ask any public aquarium - but the 90% water comment (it's actually closer to 70-80% on average) is EXACTLY the same as ALL gel food mixes.
LMAO :duh:

Commercial manufacturers promote their "dry mix" protein/fat etc levels, but they seldom post those same nutrient levels, once the WATER is added.
The following is off of Mazuri website;

NEVER FEED DRY PRODUCT.

  • Combine by weight 70% boiling water and 30% Mazuri® gel powder. Adjust ratios to desired texture and need.


So for those that haven't made it past middle school math, that equates to the final product being approx 70% water, and water is a NON-NUTRIENT, hence 70% of what your fish is consuming is a FILLER, just like the fillers found in dry foods, that are used for the same purpose, a binding agent. (not all perhaps, but still fillers)

Something else that should be mentioned, is that a fish food label must contain minimum values, and maximum values of certain components, such as protein, fat. etc. State Govt regulatory agencies can & do check. Those values allow a LOT of wiggle room, and are typically never the exact value, as determined in a lab. As an example, a label could show min 35% protein, but in a lab consistently be closer to 40%. Or a max of 10% ash content, but in a lab consistently be closer to 5%. For some manufacturers it can become a bit of a numbers game, keeping the competition guessing about certain ingredients, and exact values. Some manufacturers won't even disclose what their "starch" consists of. lol I know the owner of NLS very well, he's Chinese, probably close to 90 yrs old at this point (it's been a few yrs since we last spoke), and he ain't telling nobody sheet, unless he absolutely has to. So yeah, good luck with that. lol

From 2012, and old thread regarding Repashy when it first hit the market. It got locked down eventually, but please note that the owner of that line of gel foods would not answer my question regarding nutrient levels, AFTER the addition of water.

Repashy Superfood (for cichlids)? | MonsterFishKeepers.com

I have absolutely nothing against gel foods, but please let's keep it real. For some fish, a potential great food type, no question.
For a FH, that is already accepting bio-gold pellets, my experience with FH, and that formula, which some of my fish also ate for years,
would be a hard pass on the gel food.

Your fish, your call - good luck.
 
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