Tank Electricity Costs – Especially Heaters

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punman

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Feb 22, 2016
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I posted this on another regional fish forum many years ago. They liked it so much they preserved it as a "sticky". I have been a member here for almost three years and thought I would share it with the members.

Tank Electrical Costs – Especially Heaters

Note – If you don’t want to read through all of this, just skip down to the second last paragraph.

I have seen posts where people want to know the cost of running their tanks for a month. Lighting is easy because the wattage is listed on the lamps and we can estimate the hours per day that the lamps are on. Filters are on continually so it is just a matter of checking the specs for the filter wattage.

The trickier part is the heater because it goes off and on. I tried watching my heater in my 45 gallon tank while I worked at the computer. I tried to record the time it went off and on for two hours. Sometimes I’d miss it though and would have to estimate. I came up with ON 22% of the time.

I have 5 tanks so I needed a better idea. Over two weeks I randomly walked by the tanks and checked off on a piece of paper if the heater was on or off. I tried to do it randomly, not every 10 minutes in case a heater was running say, an 8 min. off, 2 min. on cycle. I did this about a 100 times over many days but it took less time than sitting watching a tank for two hours. The 45 gallon tank was on 20.3% of the time so I feel my method was fairly accurate. The chart below shows my results at 6 cents per kilowatt hour.

180 gal. – 250 W heater = 1.4 W/gal. On 31.4% Cost per month is $3.43

90 gal. – 250 W heater = 2.8 W/gal. On 35.6% Cost per month is $3.90

45 gal. – 200 W heater = 4.4 W/gal. On 20.3% Cost per month is $1.78

33 gal. – 150 W heater = 4.5 W/gal. On 36.4% Cost per month is $2.39

23 gal. – 50 W heater = 2.2 W/gal. On 100% Cost per month is $2.19

All heaters were set for 77-78 F and room temperature in all rooms was 70-71 F so we are looking at 7 degrees heating (about 4 degrees C) above room temperature. All heaters but one were Ebo-Jagers (the other a Visi-Therm). All were installed in the upright position.

What amazed me was how efficient large tanks are at conserving heat. The watts/gallon figures are not used in calculating dollar costs but make for interesting comparisons. You would think that the more watts per gallon you have, the less the heater would be on. Surprisingly, that is not always the case. I was worried about heating a 180 gallon tank with a 250 W heater (would it be enough heat output?) but it is on less often than the same size and brand heater on my 90 gallon. I surmise that this is due to the larger volume of water retaining heat better and the fact that the glass is thicker. Also my 180 gallon is my only tank with foam insulation underneath so maybe that makes a difference. Other factors that could affect your heating are: the location of the tank (by a window, wall, open door), the type water movement in the tank, location of heat vents in the home, and the type and amount of covering for the tank. [so tell the spouse you need a bigger tank and it won’t cost any more to run it!!! (At least the electricity part)].

In case you wonder how to calculate the cost of the heater, I will give you an example. My 200 W heater is on 20.3% of the time so that is 20.3% out of 24 hours so .203 x 24 x 30.4 days in a month = 148.1 hours a month. 148.1 x 200 Watts = 29,620. I am paying 6 cents per kilowatt hour so that is 29,620/1000 x .06 = $1.78 per month. You can calculate your lights and filters the same way.

I don’t have live plants so I have single bulb lighting and the lights are only on an average of 6 hours per day (so for me I multiply watts of lighting by .25).

Examples of filter energy use are: AquaClear 110 – 14 Watts, AquaClear 70 – 6 W, AquaClear 50 – 6 W, and Eheim 2217 – 20 W. Amongst my five tanks I have 9 filters.

I calculated that the cost total for electricity for the 5 tanks I have, to be $19.72 per month, which averages out to $3.94 a month per tank. 70% of that electrical cost is for heaters, 22% for filters, and 8% for lights. I do not have LED lighting. If you live in an area where your home is above 70 degrees F much of the time because of the warm weather, your heating costs would be less. If you are heavily into lighting, that portion will be more.

Other costs would be costs of the water and the cost of heating the water as you do water changes – most people would not be adding it cold from the tap but trying for close to tank temperature. That calculation is for another day.

So there you have it. If you are too lazy to do all this math and recordkeeping, you can use the $3.94 a month per tank average for light, filter, and heater expenses if your electricity rate is around 6 cents per kilowatt hour. A 9 cent/kwh rate would be $5.92 a month per tank; 12 cents/kwh is $7.88 a month per tank and 18 cents works out to $11.82 a month per tank.

I had put off doing these calculations because I really did not want to know the answers. The costs were not as expensive as I had thought. You might think I’m crazy to go to all the trouble math-wise, but I must confess to being a retired math teacher.




 
The trickier part is the heater because it goes off and on.

All heaters were set for 77-78 F and room temperature in all rooms was 70-71 F so we are looking at 7 degrees heating (about 4 degrees C) above room temperature.

What amazed me was how efficient large tanks are at conserving heat.

[so tell the spouse you need a bigger tank and it won’t cost any more to run it!!! (At least the electricity part)].

You might think I’m crazy to go to all the trouble math-wise, but I must confess to being a retired math teacher.

Hello; I enjoyed the post. Being a retired science teacher I also have a lot of time on my hands and a not always occupied mind.

The heaters are indeed the variable part of these calculations, I will add the seasons as another variable. From sometime in May or June to say October my heating costs are essentially zero. Those in different climate zones will have different periods of heat vs. no heat.

I also keep my current tanks inside my residence so have a similar difference between the ambient room temp and tank temp is similar. Around ten degrees for me. I add that some keep tanks in basements or a garage or other structure not necessarily kept at home room temps. Perhaps the structure is not heated at all. I knew a fellow who used part of his green house business to run fish shop from. I have also kept tanks in a basement with a slab floor so I could keep bigger tanks. More tank heating cost in these sorts of structures.

Big tanks may be good at retaining heat for the similar reason some elephants have large ears. I think of it as the inverse square rule. If I recall correctly it goes that if the surface area of a shape is doubled then the internal volume increases by four times. Something like comparing the internal volume of a volleyball to than of a basketball. You should be able to add multiples of water volume to the basketball even tho it is only roughly twice the diameter.
A tank with twice the surface area of the glass panels should hold around four times the volume ( think mass) of water. Same for an elephant that has a large outside surface area and is also crammed full of an even larger mass of wet meat. The bigger tank with a multiple increase of water mass will hold the heat. Back to some elephants, the large ears are laced with blood vessels to act as radiators so they can lose some heat.

Water also has a physical property which makes it hold heat ( I forget the physical term just now). It can take a while to warm up but once warm will lose that heat slowly. For example I now have a wood burner in my home made of iron or steel. When I get a good fire going that steel gets hot. I also sit a four gallon stainless stock pot of water on the stove which gets hot. When I let the fire burn out the stove will get cool to the touch much sooner ( by many hours) than the pot of water.

I have one advantage in that I no longer have a spouse so can do what ever I want.Your post is well written and easy to follow. Good work.
 
skjl47 Thanks for your detailed response. I live in Canada where we average only 128 frost-free days a year so we do not get many days where the house heats up enough to put the water temperature to 78 F in a fish tank without a heater coming on. I understand what you mean about water holding heat. Like earlier in the morning the shore temperature by a lake could be warmer than the shallow water but later in the day as things cool down, the water might be warmer than the lake shore air temperature.

TwoHedWlf I have been to New Zealand three times. Wonderful place, my wife has cousins there. I noticed gasoline (petrol?) was super expensive there, but have no idea about electricity costs.
 
I'm wagering that for the vast majority of us the cost of running our hobby means diddly squat simply because we're all so in love with what we do. There's absolutely not a cat in hells chance of me giving up this hobby just because running my heaters is a bit on the dear side or i've got a pump that's not right economical. It is what it is. That said though, and thankfully, and as your post shows, running an aquarium, even multiple aquariums, is only a small % of your overall annual bill. Your post is a great reference point for those on a tight budget maybe where every penny counts.
 
Great post Dwayne! I personally hate math, so I appreciate you doing it for me. lol The fact that we are only an hour away helps too, as your costs are pretty close to mine. Thanks for posting this on MFK.
 
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By the way, where I live, and I am sure for most of you, in addition to the energy charge there are monthly fees like distribution charges, transmission charges, balancing pool allocation, local access fee, and rate riders. I don't know what half of that is but you seem to pay it regardless so I did not factor that into tank costs as I figure I am paying that no matter how much electricity I use. I also forgot to add the tax we pay on the bill, an extra 5% where I live.

Still cheaper than keeping our cat and dog when we had them although we miss them both.
 
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For those of us that are lazy, we can just use this calculator (https://www.marinedepot.com/md_educationcenter_calculators_tank_electrical.html)

When I was upgrading from my 180g to my 530g I was concerned about on-going monthly costs as that is what can kill you versus just the upgrade setup costs. I ran lots of scenarios based on different filters. One big thing that can impact running cost though is type of filtration. I am currently not using my heaters at all because they pumps I am using (reeflo and eheim) actually add heat to the water. I run a constant cold water drip and in the summer they heat the tank to 80 but now as winter is approaching they cold water drip is much colder and they are keeping it steady at 77 degrees.

When I ran a drip on my 180g in the same spot and with a slightly slower drip, my heaters where running probably 50% of the time and I was running 3 AC110s. I will say a big factor was moving to acrylic, almost 100% covered and the larger volume of water.
 
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