• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

what kind of pleco its the best to eat algae in your tank?

electric enigma

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
I just wonder what kind of pleco that will eat algae in your tank cause i want put it in my 120G, 42G and 20G tank..i like the kind that can grow to max size 4-5 inch..anyone? :confused::confused::confused:
 
( 1 ) Why should I get an Algae Eater?

The worst reason to get an algae eater is just as a "preventative measure". If there is no algae growing in your tank yet, you don't need any thing to eat it! Additionally, not all algae eaters eat all kinds of algae. The various species have different tastes and dietary needs. So if you don't have any algae yet, you can't know what sort of algae may (or may not) show up in your tank. Thus it's pointless to say you "need" an algae eater for your tank when you can't even say which kind would do any good. Its far better to say that you "want" an algae eater.

Simply liking an algae eating variety of fish is the best reason to get one. When you purchase an algae eater, you are actually purchasing just another fish for your community--but a fish with special needs. All algae eaters will eventually require supplemental feeding. Few tanks can or will produce enough algae to sustain an algae eater on just what it can scavenge. A good rule of thumb is:
IF YOU CAN'T SEE ANY ALGAE, THERE ISN'T ENOUGH TO BE EATEN.



( 2 ) What kinds of algae are there?

Surprise! This is an important question because not all algae eaters eat all kinds of algae! In order to best treat your algal problems, you need to identify exactly what your problem is. There are any number of excellent websites describing and identifying the different types of algae. This is a brief list of some articles worth reading:
This is brief list of the most common algae types (only the ones in green are tasty to fish):
  • Blue-Green Algae (actually a type of bacteria, no fish will eat it)
  • Green Surface Algae (those little green dots on your glass)
  • Brown/Diatomic Algae (appears in newer tanks, often goes away on its own)
  • Tufted, Hair & Brush Algae (looks like tufts, hair, a brush, string, beards)
  • Red/Black Algae (kind of a purple-red color, will quickly overtake slow-growing plants)
( 3 ) Ok, so I know what I'll feed my algae eater. Now what sort of fish can I get?

Snails! (I'm mostly teasing but they aren't always the worst choice. This is a great article that's worth reading if you're intrigued.) There are also a number of good algae-eating shrimp, but a shockingly wide array of fish like to eat the smaller varieties of shrimp. If you would be interested in these alternatives, I suggest you take a look in the Invertebrates, Amphibians & Aquatic Reptiles Forum for suggestions by the experts.

Back to fish... First things first. Not all algae eaters are catfish. Not all catfish are algae eaters. Not all algae eaters are bottom dwellers. Not all bottom dwellers are algae eaters. Loaches are not good algae eaters. Cory Cats are not good algae eaters. Catfish with big mouths are not good algae eaters. Not all plecos are good algae eaters. BUT! Most community fish like to eat a little algae.

The following are some common species of fish that enjoy munching on some greens now and then (while none of these will eliminate an algae outbreak, they do benefit from trace amounts of it in the aquarium):
  • Mollies
  • Platys
  • Guppies
  • Gouramis (Kissing Gourami are especially gifted, but reach 8 inches!)
  • Rosy Barbs (famous for eating hair algae)
  • Really, all Barbs like to eat green stuff to some degree
  • American Flagfish (a killifish famous for eating hair algae)
  • Many species of Malawi Cichlid
( 4 ) No, no. I'm determined to get a typical algae eater.

Ok, fine but remember:
DO NOT BUY AN ALGAE EATER UNLESS YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO FEED HIM. IF THERE'S NOT ENOUGH ALGAE THAT YOU CAN SEE IT, THEN THERE'S NOT ENOUGH ALGAE TO BE EATEN. IF THERE'S NOT ENOUGH ALGAE TO BE EATEN, YOU WILL NEED TO PROVIDE SUPPLEMENTAL FOODS.

Supplemental foods include carrots, sweet potatoes/yams, zucchini, cucumbers, fancy lettuces/cabbage (not iceberg, its bad for them), and of course freshwater algae wafers (available at most LFS). To get veggies to sink in your tank, simply blanche them�either microwave them or drop them into boiling (dechlorinated) water for just a few seconds.

Some common algae eaters: (Extra-Special Thanks to The-Wolf for compiling the original of this!)
  • Cyprinids & Characins
Crossocheilus siamensis Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) / Siamese Flying Fox

Adult size 5 1/2" (14cm)
Good general cleaner: Red/Black, Tufted, Hair & Brush; Unlikely to damage plants
Often considered the best algae eater for larger tanks and the only known algae eater to eat red algae. Needs a well planted tank with a good tight fitting lids as they are very good jumpers. They thrive is schools but are also good to be kept in pairs. Interestingly the swim bladder is not very developed (compared to other fish), so the fish must be in constant motion or it sinks. The true SAE is often difficult to find and is commonly confused with the Flying Foxes. The SAE is generally distinguished by the serrated or blurred edges to the black stripe on its sides. The other similar looking species have straight edges on their stripe.
SAEbiggerguy.jpg

picture by mr_miagi32


Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus Flying Fox

Adult size 6" (15.2cm)
Mixed results: Green Surface, Tufted, Hair & Brush; Unlikely to damage plants
Well suited to a community tank; however they are very territorial to other similar shaped fish. Avoid keeping more than one specimen and avoid shark shaped fish. They do best in slightly soft water with a pH range of 6.5 to 7. This fish can be distinguished from the true SAE by virtue of the fact that the Flying Fox is much prettier. While the SAE is a grayish-brown, the Flying Fox is warm almost golden-brown color. The black stripe extends from nose all the way through the fork of the tail, but the Flying Fox exhibits a smoother edge with an additional golden line running along the top of the black.
flyingfoxclose.jpg

picture by jimboo

Epalzeorhynchus sp False Flying Fox

Adult size just under 6" (15cm)
Mixed results: Green Surface, Tufted, Hair & Brush; Unlikely to damage plants
A pH of 7 or slightly higher is preferred by this species, anything under 7 and they have a habit of dying. Otherwise, they can be kept in any community tank. Adult specimens often get aggressive toward each other. They may also harass related species and other small bottom-dwellers like loaches/corys; aggression is far more pronounced in smaller tanks. Very similar in appearance to the SAE, but examine the stripe and fins. The stripe running down the sides should have smooth edges and stops at the base of the tail without extending to the fork. The fins also are yellow-tinged whereas all fins on the SAE are perfectly clear.
photo needed


Crossocheilus oblongus Siamese Flying Fox / Shark Algae Eater / Siamese Algae Eater

Adult size just under 6" (15cm)
Moderate algae eater: Green Surface, Tufted, Hair & Brush; Unlikely to damage plants
Ideal for a community tank as they are not aggressive but avoid other shark shaped fish just to be safe. However, the Siamese Flying Fox should be kept in pairs for results. The Siamese Flying Fox has a smooth black band running down its length that does not extend through the tail.
photo needed


Gyrinocheilus aymonieri Chinese Algae Eater (CAE) / Indian Algae Eater(IAE) / Sucking Loach.
Available in a golden form often called the Golden Sucking Loach.

Adult size 10" (25cm)
Unlikely to eat algae past 6"
The Chinese Algae Eater is NOT RECOMMENDED for the typical tropical community. Although a good algae eater when young, the CAE will become very aggressive as it ages. Long-term success is only reported in keeping CAEs with fish that are the same size or larger. Semi-aggressive fish such as some cichlids and fish with strong defensive capabilities such as the botia species may be feasible. In all cases, the CAE needs plenty of rockwork/driftwood from which to select a territory and hiding spot.
Golden Sucking Loach -- photo by The-Wolf
Resized to 99% (was 869 x 227) - Click image to enlarge
1078.jpg


  • Catfish
    Please note that for most sucker catfish, there are several species sold under each common name. Thus the genus has been listed as the reference. However, there are a few species under each genus which grow significantly larger than indicated. Always, always research and double-check before you buy. For additional suggestions, two great resources are our very own Catfish Forum and the L-list at planetcatfish.
Otocinclus sp. Oto / Dwarf suckermouth catfish / Dwarf Pleco

Adult size 1.5" (4cm)
Good plant cleaner: Green Surface, Brown/Diatomic; Won't damage plants
Often considered the best algae eater for small tanks. Well suited to community tanks but really should be kept in groups of 4 or more. They are very sensitive to water parameters and have a habit of dying for no apparent reason, however once established they do a fine job of keeping the tank algae free. The typical rule of thumb for picking out Otos is ask how long they've been in the shop and look for fat bellies. An Oto that's been in the LFS for over 3 weeks and has a round tummy will probably make it in a well-kept aquarium.
CIMG0593.jpg

picture by Nospherith

All of the following plecos require supplemental feeding to survive. They need lots of food and make lots of poop. We're talking foot-long strands of fish poo all across the aquarium here; if its not pooping a lot, your pleco isn't healthy. Count yourself as warned.


Ancistrus sp. Bristlenose Catfish

Adult size 4"-8" (10cm - 20cm)
Good glass cleaner: Green Surface, Brown/Diatomic; Generally won't damage plants
While one of the most commonly available smaller plecos, the Bristlenose should not be kept in tanks smaller than 20 gallons. Driftwood/bogwood is important to fill both dietary and territory needs. Adults are fairly territorial and may become aggressive to similarly sized plecos, perceived food-competitors, and other aggressive cave-dwellers (non-aggressive cave dwellers are typically tolerated). While a wide range of conditions is tolerated, they understandably do better in conditions more closely matched to their source, the Amazon (soft/acidic water). Males begin developing the trademark bristles at sexual maturity (~4 inches). Several species are easily bred in the aquarium and a pair can quickly overwhelm their owner with fry. (As a side-note, these fish are occasionally referred to as "Brittlenose Catfish" due to, I suppose, some confusion concerning the word bristle.
wink.gif
)
Albino adult male Ancistrus sp. -- picture by Tolak
dsc007364xz.jpg

Adult male ( L ) and female ( R ) Ancistrus sp. -- picture by Jessica13
jessica13--02.jpg
jessica13--01.jpg

A young Ancistrus sp -- picture by Nitro
bn9rg.jpg

TFF Profile Available for Ancistrus dolichopterus.


Chaetostoma sp. Rubbernose Pleco / Bulldog Pleco / Rubberlip Pleco

Adult size 3"-5" (7.5cm - 12.5cm)
Good overall cleaner: Green Surface, Brown/Diatomic; Generally won't damage plants
The Rubbernose is a good algae eater for 10+ gallon aquariums. This is supposedly a rather timid fish, so don't expect to see much of him unless adequate refuge is provided (a fish with more places available for hiding sees the need less). Smooth rocks and rounded gravel are preferred. It is not recommended to keep this pleco with aggressive or high-activity fish.
MXPX4318--01.jpg

TFF Profile Available for Chaetostoma Milesi., picture by MXPX4318


Hypostomos sp./ Pterygoplichthys sp. Common Pleco / Sailfin Pleco

Adult size 12"-24" (30cm - 51cm)
Good general cleaner: Green Surface, Brown/Diatomic; Can damage plants
The Common Pleco is the cheapest pleco available. It grows to a remarkable size, lives for years and years, can be any of several dozen species and is often hybridized--so its exact needs and behavior patterns cannot be readily defined. Basically, don't get this fish unless you have a 55+ gallon tank. Common Plecos can grow as quickly as a half-inch every month. Big plecos will uproot plantings both by accident and intentionally. Most are quite shy and driftwood should be included in every common's tank.

While the Sailfin is a slightly more expensive fish than the Common, all the same issues apply. Except that Sailfin Plecos are far more likely to reach 24" than the Common.

Sailfin Pleco -- pictures by jimboo
Plec.jpg
MAG0215.jpg


Sailfin Pleco -- picture by scott67892002
scott67892002--01.jpg



Panaque maccus Clown Pleco / Clown Panaque

Adult size 3"-5" (7.5cm - 12.5cm)
Unlikely to eat algae
The Clown Panaque is a shy fish but territorial within its own species. It will occasionally pick on significantly smaller fish, but most tankmates should be just fine. Panaques are wood eaters and driftwood is an absolute must in its aquarium. While the Clown Panaque does need veggies and algae wafers in its diet, it won't do anything to clean your tank. Although sensitive to nitrate levels, the Clown Panaque is otherwise fairly hardy. A caution, though! Other species of Panaque can grow quite large, in some case reaching 3 feet in length!
comet011.jpg

TFF Profile Available for Panaque maccus., picture by cometcattle
 
Everything written there seems right. I have had 2 different plecos myself, neither of which did anything for the algae in the tank. The 2 plecos I had prefered eating cucumber, zucchini and shrimp pellets while never even attaching themselves to the aquarium glass. Some plecos are better cleaners than others, and some even make more of a mess in the tank with all the poop they produce, than they clean the tank. You have to remember, more poop/pee in the water equals more nitrates which equals more algae growth. So try not to pick a messy pleco.
 
An accurate article.A bristlenose pleco is the best bet to eat algae. That being said its easier and better to figure out why your tank is growing algae.Fix whats out of balance and the algae will go away on its own.Adding fish to try and solve a problem causes more issues. Buy fish that you like, if you buy fish thinking they will solve problems in your tank you will be dissapointed.
 
michael30.06;4657025; said:
Well you could have a bristlenose, a zebra or a gold nugget pleco for that kind of size.

Zebras will not eat algae and are not recommended for beginners.
 
Excellent point, Gomezladdams. I have had algae issues before only to find out I had high nitrates. I got the nitrates lowered and the algae continued. I then figured out with the help of people on here that I was running my lights way too long (12 hours a day). I cut that back to 7-8 hours a day and have seen a huge decline in algae. I also gravel vac twice a week as opposed to once a week to get up any extra food or poo that sits around creating nitrates and algae. I still see a little algae here and there, but it is easy enough to keep up with cleaning off when I do my water changes.
 
gomezladdams;4657098; said:
An accurate article.A bristlenose pleco is the best bet to eat algae. That being said its easier and better to figure out why your tank is growing algae.Fix whats out of balance and the algae will go away on its own.Adding fish to try and solve a problem causes more issues. Buy fish that you like, if you buy fish thinking they will solve problems in your tank you will be dissapointed.

Agree 100%. I've owned several species of plecos, and in my experiences they all seem to make a great amount of waste in comparison to other types of fish of the same size. which in the long run will help contribute to the issues that help cause algae and water quality issues.
 
Back
Top