leveling big tanks

[Charney]

Hi all
I am currently building my fish room and will not be able to level the floor. I will have some larger tanks ranging from 300g to 1k. The smaller tanks will be on pallet racks and the bigger tanks most likely cinder blocks. All the tanks will be on plywood. What is the best way to level. the tanks? I imagine shimming all the legs will be tedious. Can I do some sort of rubber matting under the stands?


Thank you

 

[Midwater]

I put rubber sheet under all my tanks. I used to use polystyrene, but that decays over time.

For small tanks I use a 3mm thick rubber sheet. For my largest tank, I use two layers, the lower layer is 12mm solid rubber, and on top is another 8mm expanded rubber.

 

[Charney]

I put rubber sheet under all my tanks. I used to use polystyrene, but that decays over time.

For small tanks I use a 3mm thick rubber sheet. For my largest tank, I use two layers, the lower layer is 12mm solid rubber, and on top is another 8mm expanded rubber.

Thank you. Where do you purchase that? What do you consider a larger tank?

 

[Midwater]

Where I purchase it may not be pertinent for you, so you will have to do some research.

The 3 mm rubber sheet I got from from a local hardware store that had accessories for heavy equipment.

The 12 mm rubber sheet I got from the rubber wholesaler a hundred kilometres away. Most big trucks (where I live) have thick rubber sheet mud guards fitted. A truck driver told me where to get it.

The expanded rubber sheet, I got from the local general material wholesaler. It is used by car manufacturers and as trim. It is worth getting the better quality stuff. The sheet I used was for BMWs (if you believe the sales girl).

See the three pictures below.

First is my 12' X 3' X 3' tank. With water weighs about 3 1/2 tons. I would consider this a largish tank. You can see the expanded rubber is compressed by the weight.

Second picture is the 8' sump. The whole floor recess is filled with the solid rubber, and sump is on addition expanded rubber. The white square in the lower left of the picture is a polyethylene board which I use as the base for the external return pump. The same two layer rubber absorbs all vibration.

Third is a 2 1/2' tank on a wooden stand. This has 3 mm solid rubber with the same expanded rubber sheet on top. You can see this is not compressed by the weight.

 

[jjohnwm]

I like to use a sheet of solid rubber, not the "expanded" stuff, under all my tanks, but its purpose is just to absorb any tiny irregularities in the surface of the wood or concrete stand. I'm talking about DIY plywood tanks and some smaller commercial all-glass tanks. I've heard that some manufacturers insist they will not honour the warranty on their tanks if the recommended base layer is not applied in the recommended fashion, but...a solid rubber base layer has never caused me any worries with all-glass tanks. The manufacturer of my plywood tanks is me; warranty claims have been few and far between but I have never failed to honour them.

But the rubber isn't there to level the tanks, it's just a protective layer with a bit of give to it. I make certain that the tank stand has a completely level surface before any rubber is cut and placed. It's hardly "tedious" and takes very little time to do, usually with opposing wedges driven under each leg from opposite directions, a little at a time, until perfect level is achieved. It's a one-time procedure and provides limitless peace of mind. It also prevents my OCD from driving me crazy from looking at a cockeyed angle at the water surface compared to the top of the tank.

If you are fairly positive that your tanks won't be moved, I've found one of the best ways to achieve and maintain perfect level is to attach a horizontal 2x4 directly to the wall at the correct level for the top of the stand. Then carefully build the stand from the top down, i.e. make a flat, square, true top framework and carefully attached it to that piece on the wall so that it's level, supporting it temporarily to keep it that way, and then carefully measure and cut each individual leg to the required length to maintain that level top. Attach the legs, make sure they are plumb, and then assemble whatever bottom level your stand calls for, diagonal braces, etc.

That first piece you attached to the wall is not supporting the tank weight; it was just there to help you assemble your stand. Once you're done you will have a perfectly level solid stand, still tied to the wall by that first piece; it's a custom fit only for use at that exact location...but for that location it's perfect.

 

[Charney]

Where I purchase it may not be pertinent for you, so you will have to do some research.

The 3 mm rubber sheet I got from from a local hardware store that had accessories for heavy equipment.

The 12 mm rubber sheet I got from the rubber wholesaler a hundred kilometres away. Most big trucks (where I live) have thick rubber sheet mud guards fitted. A truck driver told me where to get it.

The expanded rubber sheet, I got from the local general material wholesaler. It is used by car manufacturers and as trim. It is worth getting the better quality stuff. The sheet I used was for BMWs (if you believe the sales girl).

See the three pictures below.

First is my 12' X 3' X 3' tank. With water weighs about 3 1/2 tons. I would consider this a largish tank. You can see the expanded rubber is compressed by the weight.

Second picture is the 8' sump. The whole floor recess is filled with the solid rubber, and sump is on addition expanded rubber. The white square in the lower left of the picture is a polyethylene board which I use as the base for the external return pump. The same two layer rubber absorbs all vibration.

Third is a 2 1/2' tank on a wooden stand. This has 3 mm solid rubber with the same expanded rubber sheet on top. You can see this is not compressed by the weight.

View attachment 1541041

View attachment 1541042

View attachment 1541043

thank you. very helpful

 

[Charney]

I like to use a sheet of solid rubber, not the "expanded" stuff, under all my tanks, but its purpose is just to absorb any tiny irregularities in the surface of the wood or concrete stand. I'm talking about DIY plywood tanks and some smaller commercial all-glass tanks. I've heard that some manufacturers insist they will not honour the warranty on their tanks if the recommended base layer is not applied in the recommended fashion, but...a solid rubber base layer has never caused me any worries with all-glass tanks. The manufacturer of my plywood tanks is me; warranty claims have been few and far between but I have never failed to honour them.

But the rubber isn't there to level the tanks, it's just a protective layer with a bit of give to it. I make certain that the tank stand has a completely level surface before any rubber is cut and placed. It's hardly "tedious" and takes very little time to do, usually with opposing wedges driven under each leg from opposite directions, a little at a time, until perfect level is achieved. It's a one-time procedure and provides limitless peace of mind. It also prevents my OCD from driving me crazy from looking at a cockeyed angle at the water surface compared to the top of the tank.

If you are fairly positive that your tanks won't be moved, I've found one of the best ways to achieve and maintain perfect level is to attach a horizontal 2x4 directly to the wall at the correct level for the top of the stand. Then carefully build the stand from the top down, i.e. make a flat, square, true top framework and carefully attached it to that piece on the wall so that it's level, supporting it temporarily to keep it that way, and then carefully measure and cut each individual leg to the required length to maintain that level top. Attach the legs, make sure they are plumb, and then assemble whatever bottom level your stand calls for, diagonal braces, etc.

That first piece you attached to the wall is not supporting the tank weight; it was just there to help you assemble your stand. Once you're done you will have a perfectly level solid stand, still tied to the wall by that first piece; it's a custom fit only for use at that exact location...but for that location it's perfect.

thank you. I plan on getting two fiberglass tanks around 10-12 ft x 4 fx x 3 ft. I want to usa a simple cinderblock sand fro them. What is the best way to level that?

 

[skjl47]

Hello; Two possible places to get rubber mats. One might be a Tractor Supply store. They sell heavy/thick mats. Maybe any place that sells tack for horses?

Another is where gyms get the rubber flooring use in weight rooms.