For those wanting a reptile...

[stary_traveler]

For a beginner snake, there are a few great choices...


Corn snakes top the list. They come in a huge rainbow of colors(reds,oranges,pinks, browns,blacks, ect ect ect), are generally very calm and docile, and can only reach 5 or 6 feet. That sounds long, but it is really a very easy manageable size. They do fine in a 30 gallon or so. They are great escape artists, but are really great otherwise. They also don't have the huge humidity or feeding issues of alot of other snakes. They like to cruse around alot when they are held. They can run from 15 dollars at a show for normals to over 150 for high end colors. Cheap, easy...


Captive bred ball pythons are the second best. I like them more than corns because they sit still much easier than corns do. They need more heat, but that's not hard to provide. These are one of the nicest snakes you can come by if you make sure it is captive born and young. (Wild caught reptiles have feeding issues and a TON of parasites, esp in ball pythons. Trust me, cheap and imported is worth hundreds in vet bills later) Captive born babies i've seen as low as 25 these days, but morphs reach into the thousands and are beautiful. Balls MIGHT reach 6 feet, but most top out around 4 1/2. These are just darling little snakes.

Another to consider is a garter snake. Sadly, most are wild caught, but you can get ones that aren't. They are cheap (as low as $6 sometimes), hardy, and tame easially. PLus they feed on worms or fish for those who mind having prekilled mice in the freezer next to the ice cream. They stay really small (3 ft) and can be happy in a 10 or 15 gallon tank)

 

[stary_traveler]

If you want a lizard....first off lizards need a more complex setup than a snake. Snakes need a large secure cage, heat, water bowl, and a hide box in general. Most lizards NEED UVB light or they will develop metabolic bone disease, which is a very serious and COMMON condition in repotiles that causes deformanties and death. Some of the burrowing lizards require less, and monitors don't really require it, but when in doubt, provide it. The UVB lights must be within 9" of the reptile to be effective, and must be replaced every 6 months. Still want a lizard?


I'd say leopard gecko first off. They are desert dwellers, and don't have the problem of skin sleuthing when they are handled. They eat well, and only grow about 7 inches or so. Being a lizard, they still need alot more space than a snake would. They also come in tons of colors, from white to pink and yellow to purplish. They are cheap, like 25 dollars to 75 or so. They tolerate handling, and are a great beginner reptile.

Next is the bearded dragon or a rankins dragon. These two, the second being newer in the trade, are a good size, most species never even nearing 2 ft. In general, they are calm, tolerate handling, and live to eat and bask. Starting with an older one is better than a baby, as babies are much harder to keep.


blue tongue skinks are great, too. I have 2 myself. They feed well, tame well, and have really pretty fleshy blue tongues which they use to scare you away or lick a grape . They are really cute and stay under 2 feet as well without being too skinny.

Finally, not all monitors are bad. ackies, the cheapest of the dwarf monitors, get in the 1 1/2 foot range. They are really friendly, and ours is to fat he looks like a sausage. If you want the personality of the SUPER intelegent monitors in a small package, this i a great monitor for you.

 

[guppy]

Tokays are great starters, they are easy, cheap, and they bark.

 

[cenecker]

and monitors don't really require it

?

 

[pete620]

It is still not proven if monitors need UVB light. I have read a report from a zoo in which blood was sampled from Komodo Dragons with and with out UVB. The dragons with the UVB did exibit a slightly stronger imune system and increased D3 count. However there are many succseful monitor breeders who do not use UVB, and they keep very healthy montors. As long as the monitor is fed a whole prey diet (ie. F/T mice, rats, chicks, ect.) they can get much of their D3 through the body of animals which produce it, especialy mammals.