How to manage humidity

[CaptainAquatics]

Hello all! I would like some advise on managing humidity in my apartment.
I currently have 5 aquariums totaling roughly 500 gallons of water (al190, 170, 75, 40, & 20)
On all of these tanks I have quite well fitting lids, on top of this I run a small dehumidifier and have central air that supposedly helps to dehumidify as well.
The ambient humidity is usually around 40-60%.
I have two main concerns:
1st is the current humidity concerning or damaging?
2nd I intend to add a 7.7’ x 4.7’ x 2’ indoor pond in the near future. Currently plan is to cover with greenhouse panels but VERY concerned about it spiking the humidity. Another concern is the electrical output down there (note: either the 190 or 170 will be decommissioned when this is setup) and whether or not I can run a larger dehumidifier.

For some more details:
- my apartment is in a finished basement with only 2 small windows
- the outside humidity is roughly 60-80% at the moment
- A couple years ago we had to redo wiring because the humidity destroyed the circuit's (this was before the Central air and dehumidifiers)
- this area was not designed for aquariums or fish tanks originally

How do you guys keep humidity down?

 

[skjl47]

Hello; First the central air. Central air only dehumidifies when in use during the warm months. If you perhaps have a heat pump that heats in the winter and cools in the summer the story is the same. You do not list a general location so i will guess you have cold months.

Next a dehumidifier (DH). In essence these units are closed system air conditioners. Use the same mechanics/physics as the central air unit. A difference is the intended result. I had high humidity in my house when i moved in 14 years ago with far fewer gallons of tanks. I purchased a DH to use in the winter months. An advantage during the winter is the energy the unit releases warm air into the living space. So you get a bit of benefit during cold weather.

A DH can be run during warm weather, but if you are using Central air the units are working against each other in terms of energy use. The AC unit has to work harder to remove the heat generated from the DH.

A bottom line is you likely have forces working against each other. The tanks have heaters which the AC works against to cool the space. With the amount of water you envision you will spend on electricity.

Some thoughts. Turn the heaters down some on the tanks. Maybe to 70 degrees F. Warmer water sheds more water vapor is my take.

Cut back on bubblers and other devices which agitate the surface of the water. Calmer water ought to shed less moisture. A trad eoff if your tanks are overstocked. Heavily stocked tanks need lots of bubblers and pumps to help keep the fish going.

Likely the #1 issue will be mold. I have talked to shop owners who have had serious problems. Health issues for you but also physical damage to the building.

I open my windows as soon as it gets warm enough in the spring and well into the fall. I rarely use the AC as i like open windows. I do turn on the central air some nights and days.

You may need a bigger DH and the cash to run everything.

 

[TwoHedWlf]

The ambient humidity is usually around 40-60%.
I have two main concerns:
1st is the current humidity concerning or damaging?

That's literally the exact healthy humidity range quoted for inside a home. I think you're fine.

 

[Trouser Bark]

That's literally the exact healthy humidity range quoted for inside a home. I think you're fine.

That statement is not accurate.

A healthy home would be between approximately 30-50%. Any number above 50% introduces the likelihood that molds will propagate and at 55% that transitions from a likelihood to a known concern. At 60% you may not know where the problem is but you definitely have mold spores propagating somewhere.

Conversely, at humidity levels beneath 30% you will have issues with the glue in grandma's rocking chair drying out and losing it's adhesion, etc.

The correct number is 30-50% in-home humidity. If you are hitting 60% you should address the issue for the health of the structure as well as the occupants.

 

[skjl47]

Hello; Did not take long for the thread to have two differing opinions. Par for this place. I like low humidity in the warm months as it helps my sweat evaporate. Higher humidity in the cold months helps because my sweat does not evaporate so fast. Also pretty sure helps minimize drying out of sinus cavities which helps prevent nasal infections. The big issue with high humidity is mold. I had figured to leave which humidity level the OP wanted up to the OP.

 

[Trouser Bark]

Hello; Did not take long for the thread to have two differing opinions. Par for this place.

Hi skjl47. Yours was an xlnt response in a previous post. I don't have central air and hadn't considered that a central DH might not do anything in the summer.

I also hadn't considered until your comment above that humidity might be an opinion but I see what you mean. Some people might like being a little on the wet side and some on the dry side.

As far as the building goes though (and outside any parameter that might be a comfort preference) 30-50 isn't my opinion; it's objective data associated w/ humidity and health but not necessarily comfort. Here's a supporting document or two...

Normal humidity levels in the home should fall between 30 to 50 percent.

Is Your Home Uncomfortable? It Could Be the Humidity—Here's What to Know

Find out what humidity level is ideal in a home and how to increase or decrease the indoor humidity for staying comfortable.

www.thespruce.com

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the ideal indoor relative humidity is between 30% and 50% — and must be kept below 60%.

What Is the Ideal Humidity Level for Your Home? - Today's Homeowner

Indoor relative humidity can significantly affect your comfort. Learn all about the ideal humidity level at home in this comprehensive guide.

todayshomeowner.com

Seasonal changes and the climate where you live play crucial roles in your home’s humidity level, but the ideal atmosphere is below 50% average humidity.

The Ideal Indoor Humidity Level for Your Home®

The ideal indoor humidity level for your home depends on many factors. It can keep your home safe and your family healthy.

www.hvac.com

The optimal relative humidity for indoor air is between 30 and 50 percent

Why the Right Home Humidity Matters - Consumer Reports

A humidifier can improve indoor humidity, benefiting your family's and pets' comfort, and extending the life of items like wood flooring and musical instruments. Consumer Reports explains why and how humidifiers help, especially in winter.

www.consumerreports.org

The humidity level in your home should stay between 30 percent to 50 percent, says Richard Ciresi, the franchise owner with Aire Serv, a Neighborly company. "If your home or any part of it has a humidity reading of over 50 percent, consider installing or running a dehumidifier," he says.

Everything You Need to Know About Achieving the Ideal Humidity Level in Your Home

Find out how the right humidity level in your home helps you avoid indoor mold and mildew growth, skin and allergy flare-ups, and poor air quality overall.

www.marthastewart.com

Some of those references are not science sites but the EPA site and the MIT reference are. It is possible to find unqualified sites stating that up to 60% is healthy but that statement conflicts with objective data. If we know mold will grow at 60% but it does not at 50%, those websites that state 60% is healthy should be deemed suspect, no?

I've seen the damage that high humidity can do and it can be horrifically costly to remedy. A fact based recommendation to any aquarium keeper is that you're far safer keeping humidity at between 30-50% than you are at any higher level. For an aquarium keeper in an apartment complex that might be even more important as the potential liability could be significant.

 

[skjl47]

I've seen the damage that high humidity can do and it can be horrifically costly to remedy. A fact based recommendation to any aquarium keeper is that you're far safer keeping humidity at between 30-50% than you are at any higher level. For an aquarium keeper in an apartment complex that might be even more important as the potential liability could be significant.

Hello; I do not contend mold is to be ignored. I also try to keep relative humidity lower even in winter on account of health risks rather than the benefits of being more comfortable in terms of feeling warm.
My first experience with central air (heat pump) was from buying my current home 14 years ago. Before that I had experienced "hot" heating which tended to dry the air. My first year with the heat pump was an unpleasant experience. I did not freeze but did not feel warm. The heat pump held the air temperature steady. I already knew how the unit operated so was not surprised to find ice on the inside panes of the double glass windows on really cold days. Cooking, bathing, breathing add humidity to the air. Add a few warm water aquariums in side a closed building to get even more humidity. One adjustment made was to get and use a dehumidifier during winter months.

I open up the house during warm weather so keep lots of air exchange with the outside. For those who never open up a residence the mold issue is a bit more concerning. Let me use a different example. I also pontificate on a car forum. Had a discussion about storing cars long term ( over winter mostly) in terms of cosmetic issues. My suggestion was to use a CAR CAPSUEL. The company has indoor use and outdoor use capsules. Basically, a plastic bag inflated with a low pressure air flow.
A fellow argued as to how it did not make sense because on high humidity days the units would be pushing high humidity air thru the capsule so in his opinion could not prevent mold or rust. Thing is it is the constant flow of air which is critical. The air pump is constantly replacing the air which leaks out of the capsule as designed. So, no condensation seems to be the key.
Guess the point being made is in a closed space without outside air exchange we have to treat humid air somehow. Aquariums add to the water vapor a lot. Central air or even simple window AC units pull moisture out of the air. My central air heat pump has plumbing which collects the condensation dripping off of the cold coils and sends the water to a floor drain in the basement. Window units let the removed moisture run to the outside and drip. I turn off the dehumidifier about this time of years in TN. I will open up the house today as it is to be in the 80's F.
On really hot & humid nights I close up the place and turn on the AC. AC cools us two ways. First by cooling the air (DUH at me). But also by lowering the humidity. Lower humidity lets our sweat evaporate better. (Evaporative cooling) To evaporate a drop of sweat (water) takes energy in the form of body heat.

So we have cover mold health side of the OP questions. Any more suggestions as to howto deal with getting rid of excess humidity?

 

[RD.]

Give your current stats, I would pass on the indoor pond idea.

 

[CaptainAquatics]

Wow, just logged on after a few days of being offline and see this has gotten quite a few replies.
To clear this up my goal humidity is in the high 30’s to low 40’s percentage range. It’s where I personally feel most comfortable, it is a good baseline for me to manage my reptiles humidity from that point, and is a safe range for preventing mold.
This pond is something that will be required for me to get ASAP if I want to keep what I have (I am currently growing out 3 stingrays in my larger tanks), so I’m just looking for ideas on possible solutions. (As a side note if I can’t end up getting this pond I will rehome the rays, not just let them suffer in a tank that’s too small).

Thank you all for your replies so far! Here’s a photo of why I made this thread!