HarleyK;523621; said:
Honestly, I am not aware of a polishing technique for glass tanks, but I would be greatly interested if anyone could offer instructions.
Thanks,
HarleyK
Just like polishing a automobile windshield (or wind screen) (thought I'd head that one off)
Your not actually removing scratches but rather polishing their grooves if you follow my meaning. For the inside of a tank removing them is too much work, and the water helps to hide the scatches after they're polished. It usually takes at least two grades of polish, I prefer 14,000 diamond powder & 50,000 cerium oxide (a very lite haze may be taken out with cerium oxide only if your lucky so try it first), and a buffing
wheel (hard felt or leather) (not a pad as we are doing a small area). One For
EACH compound ( You cannot use the same wheel or you will just keep scratching the area). A dremel tool is not very good for this because of the area that needs to be covered. If it were a single scratch then it would work.
Please read this fully before starting...
Now...
1) Make a slurry of diamond powder and water to a milky consistancy,
dampen the pad and keep a spray bottle of water to keep pad
damp. Slow speeds are easier to handle 800-1000 rpm is good. Slower speeds, the longer it takes but less heat build-up(you don't have anywhere to go anyway). DO NOT USE ALOT OF PRESSURE. Let the grit do the work. Keep the pad damp (not wet) Polish the area till it doesn't seem to change (no clearer looking) this could take 15-30 seconds then clean the area of ALL polishing compound with a clean rag or good quality paper towel(cheap ones don't seem to pickup everything).
Inspect the area both dry and wet. if it's good enough for you quit now.
or
2) Repeat with the finer ceriun oxide and a
NEW clean buffing wheel.
Re-re-inspect. If the scratches are still visable repeat step 1 then step 2 again.
That should do it...but...
3) If you are a perfectionist you can go to the 100,000 diamond powder, but for this use I don't think it will be necessary.
Three things to remember,,,
1) Only use a buffing wheel for a single grit
2) Did you notice I said keep the wheel
DAMP? That's because if it's wet it willthro all the grit out from the area to be polished and make a BIG mess. The polishing compounds can stain some clothing.
3) Practice...Practice...Practice.
Wear quality eye protection. Remember I told you so.
Do be mindful of sharp edges and that this glass is thinner than the tank glass. Wearinf gloves may help.
Take a piece of glass (window or picture frame glass is ok but take note that they may be softer if your tank is safety glass). Now sand a spot 3"x3" with 500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. This should scuff the glass well.
With the glass on a flat surface, go thru the polishing sequences to see the different results.
Some forms of flora have excreations simular to super glue to attach them to they're home. With glass actually being porous, this material gets in there and can look like the glass is etched. Cleaning with Metyl Ethyl Keytone
may remove some of it, but doubtful. And you will have to clean the area extremely well before reuse. Polishing here may help.
4) Did I mention Practice? If you don't you won't be satified with the results.
If it helps, my qualifications are:
I am a Lapidarist (Quote "a person with special knowledge or ability who performs skillfully at cutting/polishing stone and crystal"). I mainly cut & polish Opal (my favorite, but I also do rubies, emeralds, fossils, beach glass and anything I can get my hands on).
I also polish/repair cut glass and Antique leaded glass crystal (dishes/stemware/watch bezels).
I have polished scatches out of both regular/safety glass tanks/windows & windshields(windscreens) with great success.
Sorry for the short post, but if I condense this ant more I'll explode.
If you read this fully "Ta Da" your done.
Dr Joe
.
with HarleyK.
