Mechanical Filtration - Stainless Steel Mesh

[sincebeen]

I'm a new member, but I'm not new to the site. I've used input from these forums for a while now, especially when I built my 125 Gallon freshwater Piranha tank into the wall of my mancave, So thanks everyone for the help:



It was down for a year while I was out of the country but I've got it going again and I've been making some changes to my DIY Wet/Dry sump . The red arrow points to what I'm thinking about changing.



I had a simple series of different mechanical filter pads, above the bio filtration, that looked nice in the sump, but still left particles in the water. It was never an issue before because my lighting is a DIY dimmable puck light system (like the ones folks put under their cabinets) and they were always set low because the piranhas enjoy low lighting. This time, I'm almost set on getting Green Terrors, so the lighting situation will change. The photo above shows the - not so pretty - mechanical filtration that I changed to yesterday, which is 100 Micron filter mesh with cotton stuffing in-between. A day later, with the lights turned up, there is still particles. (I should mention that the current setup has a turn-over rate of about 1 per hour)

So My idea is to replace a portion of the overflow pipe, red arrow, with something like this (I'll need to find something closer to 50 micron instead of 149):

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466909_200466909?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hydraulics-_-Hydraulic%20Accessories-_-778639&ci_sku=778639&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CLyNxu2f9bQCFYKK4AodBDwA7g

The reason for looking at stainless steel mesh is that I'll be able to rinse instead of replace. The alternative, obviously, would be using the ~50 micron poly mesh filter sock that we're all used to seeing, but this would require replacing, instead of a simple rinsing.

By doing either of these, I can, I think, completely delete the mechanical media that is in the sump, and add a little more bio.

So I'm looking for some advice on the chemistry impact of stainless steel mesh as aquarium mechanical filter media.

And again, thanks for everyone's advice over the past couple of years

 

[Cicho]

I highly doubt that the entire filter is stainless steel so check it with a magnet. Some stainless is magnetic also but this will at least let you know if you should proceed or investigate more.

 

[Drstrangelove]

Particles are in the visible range to 40 microns, so a 100 micron filter won't be able to remove all the particles that may be visible, at least not over night, and not with a low turn rate.

Three questions:

1) why do you replace instead of clean the 50 micron poly mesh filter sock?
2) have you considered a lower micron poly sheet above the bio media and below the 100 micron, e.g, 25 to 50 microns?
3) have you considered waiting a few days? filters take a while to clear up water since the filter improves catch rates as it accumulates debris which partially closes holes. I.e., a 100 micron filter begins to act like a lower sized filter as time progresses until it clogs. Even after clogging (and disposal of the debris), the process can repeat itself until a lot of 'smaller than 100 micron' particles are gone and clog time increases

Possibly using a filter sock, combined with 2 lower micron sized filter sheets will give you the results you want. You'll need several of each so you can swap and clean them, but otherwise, if the last stage is 25 microns there should be a noticeable improvement.

I'd try to avoid stainless steel, because while under most conditions it will be fine, you may find later that you'll add certain chemicals/salts that interact badly with it. (I'm neither a metallurgist nor a chemist, so don't take my word for it.)

 

[sincebeen]

Nice catch, since that is a hydraulic component, that reducer is likely made of iron. So that piece is a no-go.

But I could build a SS filter using this and/or this.

Again, chemistry impact?

 

[sincebeen]

Dr, are you saying the 25-50 micron poly mesh filter socks are completely reusable?

 

[Drstrangelove]

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-406140.html

In this thread, a number of people describe methods of cleaning and reusing the socks. Over time of course (months?), you may want to toss them. I'm sure there are limits to cleaning for micro filtration media, but these should be fairly robust down to a few microns or less.

Polypropylene looks more durable than polyester. Scan the last 4-5 pages and see what you think.

 

[fishman09]

Needs more turnover!! 1 time per hr on a 125 is not going to be good enough especially with messy cichlids like green terrors . There looks to be very little media also which is a no no for having that little turnover. With 4-5 times turnover and adding more media that tank will sparkle but how you have it now is not working. Micron size is over ratted and the smaller you go the more your gonna have to clean it. So best to get a new larger pump and add more bio media. Bags of ceramic media down by the pump and heater would help quite a bit.

Whats the water change and gravel vacuum schedule?

 

[isde02]

1.Filter socks are definitely reusable, I throw mine in the washer in hot water and a little unscented bleach. 2. I think you need a higher turnover rate.....once an hour is kind of slow, aim for 3-4x an hour.

Sent from my ADR6400L using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

 

[sincebeen]

Needs more turnover!! 1 time per hr on a 125 is not going to be good enough especially with messy cichlids like green terrors . There looks to be very little media also which is a no no for having that little turnover. With 4-5 times turnover and adding more media that tank will sparkle but how you have it now is not working. Micron size is over ratted and the smaller you go the more your gonna have to clean it. So best to get a new larger pump and add more bio media. Bags of ceramic media down by the pump and heater would help quite a bit.

Whats the water change and gravel vacuum schedule?

What is not in the picture is the ~15.5' of 2" PVC plumbing, which adds to the bio filtration and is plenty. My ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels are always at zero. The automatic drip is visible in my sump system at left. Using a refrigerator waterline kit, the new water runs through activated charcoal and ammo remover before dripping onto an air stone and into the sump at 1-2 drips per second. Old water overflows into the drain, again, at the left of the sump. This equates to a 30-40% weekly water change, but it is gradual.

My question was about using stainless steel in a freshwater aquarium.

 

[sincebeen]

I misspoke, and I just had to go to the head loss calculator again to make sure. My turn over rate is ~426 GPH which puts me at a little better than 3 per hour turnover (it has clearly been a while since I consulted the head loss calculator ).