What's in the box? It's polys!

kno4te

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Probably from the ammonia.

Yes. At 86 the ich will stop reproducing. At 89 for, 3-4 days,will be killed. So as long as the the temp is increased slowly and the aren't heat sensitive then it'll be ok.

89 degree temps are ok. Gotta keep a pump or powerhead to keep water churning as oxygen will be depleted.

The heater or more than one should be able to handle it.

Also depends on whether the person doing it can perform the tasks. That factors into a lot of it.

But should make the suggestion for either 86 or 89 will get he same result.
 

kno4te

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Forgot to add this is way easy to accomplish with a small qt tank. The small volume allows for easy med and salt dosing. Wc's are easy to manage. Plus much easier to heat the small volume of water compared to a larger main tank.
 

clm08k

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Do you have any friends with tanks that you can borrow media from to keep your QT cycled? The Moke is WC so might be less tolerant to ammonia and nitrites.

I'm not sure what to recommend when you're medicating for water changes. But what if you did 5 gallons daily vs 9 gallons every other? (With meds I don't know if that's ok or not...)

How is the big tank going numbers-wise, and are you rehoming the parrots?

I know I'm desperate for you to get the big tank stable and the polys in it, and for everything to settle down for you.
Thanks Mags. Just did a water change in the 55g. My dad is complaining that I change the water in all my tanks too much, but I'm doing what I need to do to get everyone healthy.
I'm gonna do the WC every day in the QT and follow what kno4te suggested.
Don't have anybody around here who I could ask for biomedia, besides ex and manager of the one store. Ehhhhh. lol.

Big tank BEFORE 50% water change: ph 7.6, ammonia, 0, nitrites 0. Nitrates: 20ppm. All ready off to a better start.

going to rehome the parrots tomorrow. Or at least the one who stays at the top. Makes me really sad because I really like them and don't want to get rid of them. I guess if I really want to I can always go back and get some more parrots at a later date. EVERYONE ROLLS THEIR EYES. :rolleyes: Apparently mine only swim around when I'm not nearby. Every time the house was quiet/ nobody was nearby, the one who hides was swimming around.

I went by walmart today....those parrots are swimming and look healthier than mine. Actually approach the tank when you are there. Also, they are 1/3 of what I paid.o_O Only problem is when I go to walmart, I want to save all the fish.
 
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clm08k

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Probably from the ammonia.

Yes. At 86 the ich will stop reproducing. At 89 for, 3-4 days,will be killed. So as long as the the temp is increased slowly and the aren't heat sensitive then it'll be ok.

89 degree temps are ok. Gotta keep a pump or powerhead to keep water churning as oxygen will be depleted.

The heater or more than one should be able to handle it.

Also depends on whether the person doing it can perform the tasks. That factors into a lot of it.

But should make the suggestion for either 86 or 89 will get he same result.
thanks for the specifics kno4te kno4te ! This seems a lot easier to cure than when I was trying to cure TB/ cichlid mystery death. Will follow your instructions to a T, and keep you guys posted. Hopefully I can perform the tasks correctly.

current setup in the 10 gal QT: is a
-Hydor 50w heater,
-air stone+pump,
-Aquatech HOB filter for 5-15gal,
Do I still need to get a pump or powerhead?

For now it sounds like ich. Keep the salt and up ur temp to 89 degrees. About a degree per hour and keep like this for 2 weeks. It'll clear it with time.

Suggest adding the salt at 1tsp per gallon. If not better than up to 3tsp per gallon. The thing with ich is to be patient.

I suggest a wc every 3 days at 50 %. Then add back the salt taken out. So if 100g then 100tsp total. Then with a 50% add back 50tsp.

MB and parapgaurd are safe for polys. But will kill ur BB and mess up ur water parameters. So keep an eye out.

For the ich...salt and heat will clear it. Be patient
Will try to be patient. Thank you! 2 week timer starts now. Temp is 80, but will bump it up in hourly increments. Will try 86 first.

My QT isn't cycled, should I do the WC 50% every three days. Currently I am doing fin level every other day due to 0.25 ammonia after 24 hours.
 

kno4te

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The temp of 86 will work. Just gotta keep it like for more than 10 days usually.
 
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magpie

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I don't know enough about sickness water changes but if you weren't having issues I'd say 50% daily WCs. You don't want ammonia to creep up.

Don't buy Walmart fish!!! More likely to add more disease! Plus you're supporting their poor fish practices financially.

If you want parrots again later, get them from a LFS where you can see that they are healthy first and you trust the store. (Or order them online if that's not possible.)
 

clm08k

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The temp of 86 will work. Just gotta keep it like for more than 10 days usually.
Okay. I'll try to bump it up to 89 then. And buy a wave maker For the Water changes, you listed every three days. My ammonia level goes to 0.25 after 24 hours. The QT isn't cycled. Should I still do 50% water changes every three days? Or stick to every day WC?

Thanks!
 
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clm08k

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I don't know enough about sickness water changes but if you weren't having issues I'd say 50% daily WCs. You don't want ammonia to creep up.

Don't buy Walmart fish!!! More likely to add more disease! Plus you're supporting their poor fish practices financially.

If you want parrots again later, get them from a LFS where you can see that they are healthy first and you trust the store. (Or order them online if that's not possible.)
it's killing me seeing them with ich. Now I can see it on the delhezi.

agree 1000%. :D

They are being rehomed today.:(
 
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kno4te

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Probably camallanus worms. Probably in the fish as well. Will need to cont salt and heat. But need to get some flubendazole or levamisole.

After round of that with heat and salt for the ich then you should be good. Sorry clm08k clm08k things will get better soon.
 
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