300 gallon 1/2 inch acrylic... bow issues?

Steve_C

Redtail Catfish
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Jan 9, 2017
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My 240g 30" tall x 6ft x 2ft Acrylic is 1/2" thick and it bows about 1" in the center. Been up and running for a year here no problem and the fellow club member I bought it off of had it running for a number of years no problem. Acrylic bows when thinner panels are used, that's par for the course. Only way to not bow is to use thicker panels but then cost sky rockets.

I totally understand your concern though. My 240g was my first acrylic and when I filled it and saw the bow I freeked out and drained it then started talking to people & acrylic companies to find out if that was normal lol.
 
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Lepisosteus

Goliath Tigerfish
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May 20, 2014
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Sure please find tank pic below, can i ask if i should get the square rod or triangle rod, not sure how triangle rod would meet on the edges, square is much easier to cut.

View attachment 1344827
I suggest going with the
My 240g 30" tall x 6ft x 2ft Acrylic is 1/2" thick and it bows about 1" in the center. Been up and running for a year here no problem and the fellow club member I bought it off of had it running for a number of years no problem. Acrylic bows when thinner panels are used, that's par for the course. Only way to not bow is to use thicker panels but then cost sky rockets.

I totally understand your concern though. My 240g was my first acrylic and when I filled it and saw the bow I freeked out and drained it then started talking to people & acrylic companies to find out if that was normal lol.
his problem isn’t with the bowing, it’s with the seam separation the tank is already experiencing
 
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Cardeater

Polypterus
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Apr 14, 2018
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I have a 7x3x25” tall from 1/2” acrylic. This tank cracked numerous times and I keep repairing it. I only keep 18” of water in it now to keep the bowing and stress down.
These stories scare me as Tsunami uses 1/2" for these tanks I'm considering. I have read in other threads that I could pay more for 3/4" if I'm worried but some here have had the 1/2" versions with no problem

I'm still learning but it seemed like for over 24" height is when more than 1/2" is used, though some manufacters use thicker for the 350 and 440 dimensions in the Tsunami tanks below:

https://www.fishtanksdirect.com/tsu...6wx24h-rectangular-acrylic-aquarium-r350.aspx


https://www.fishtanksdirect.com/tsu...8wx24h-rectangular-acrylic-aquarium-u420.aspx
 

Hari Haran

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
May 30, 2018
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I understand that, I was simply answering his original question about bowing. I wasn't going to comment on the seam issue because I have never had to repair one yet and you seemed to have already covered that for him.
Appreciate the reply S Steve_C , i am planning to get the tank, probably get it at lower price.

Can you pm me some pics of the bow, just want to compare.

Thanks.
 

Hari Haran

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
May 30, 2018
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I have a 7x3x25” tall from 1/2” acrylic. This tank cracked numerous times and I keep repairing it. I only keep 18” of water in it now to keep the bowing and stress down.
Thanks for the post C Cardeater , can i ask what kind of repairs have you done to the tank, thanks.
 

Hari Haran

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
May 30, 2018
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I suggest going with the

his problem isn’t with the bowing, it’s with the seam separation the tank is already experiencing
Lepisosteus Lepisosteus , i did some reading, going to get both Weld-on 4 and 16, 16 to take care of any leaks.

Can you suggest should i go with square or triangle rod bracing, any pros/cons.

Thanks.
 

Lepisosteus

Goliath Tigerfish
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May 20, 2014
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Lepisosteus Lepisosteus , i did some reading, going to get both Weld-on 4 and 16, 16 to take care of any leaks.

Can you suggest should i go with square or triangle rod bracing, any pros/cons.

Thanks.
Go with Weldon 40 over #16 if you are doing a seam overlay. There’s a very good write up by wednesday13 wednesday13 on this forum about a tip and pour method. I would personally go with acrylic rods throughout the seam but you will have similarly good results with a wedge of 40 (40 looks better).

Problem with 16 is it often traps in air bubbles and provides minimal structural support. It’s 4x weaker than #4, it’s basically a leak stopper. I’ve seen air bubbles degas out of the 16 causing areas to leak. If a repair involving 16 fails and has to be done again, it’s an absolute nightmare removing in order to get rods to sit flush back in the seam. Usually has to be cut out with a dremel, sanded, or the way I do it, is add some weldon 4 to it so it becomes opaque and brittle and then chip it away with a butter knife. I suggest avoiding 16 all together and use acrylic rods or 40 from the start.
 

Lepisosteus

Goliath Tigerfish
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May 20, 2014
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Lepisosteus Lepisosteus , i did some reading, going to get both Weld-on 4 and 16, 16 to take care of any leaks.

Can you suggest should i go with square or triangle rod bracing, any pros/cons.

Thanks.
I use triangle rods as my acrylic provider creates them using cell cast acrylic which is not very common. Make sure either rod you get is cell cast. I know people have used extruded rods for this type of repair but I do not recommend. If you can’t find any cell cast rods, go with the tip and pour #40 method.
 
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