I don’t believe so. I believe you would use your tests to do your water changes. The link above should provide you with more info
How to Cycle Tank For the First Time
- Thread starter The-Almighty-Zugs
- Start date
The lady in the link is using ammonia in her tank. I want to stay away from that if I can.I don’t believe so. I believe you would use your tests to do your water changes. The link above should provide you with more info
And how do I figure out when to do water changes from the tests? When they are nitrates? Just want to have a clear idea on what to do.
Here you go hopefully this helpshttp://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html
I've read though some and I will read through the rest later. It so far is very helpful and is the only document that mentions all of the options including fish feed as an option. Quick question though, what fish food would be best for a cycle? Will any flakes work? Like would this work: https://www.amazon.ca/OmegaSea-Food...fish+flakes+cycle&qid=1568957512&sr=8-2-fkmr2
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I cycled a tank from scratch a few months back, a 180 gallon, although I 've set up many tanks over the years, I had always used seasoned media in the past.
For this new tank, it was set up and planted heavily. My first "sacrificial" fish were a couple dozen gambusia, which survived the initial couple weeks, although I didn't expect them to.
They were later eaten by the cichlids added down the road.
If small enough fish are added gradually , they may never produce a large spike in tanks this large, because the cycle is so gradual, as long as you have patience.
During initial set up time, I did small daily water changes.
It took about 2 months before I added my main focus fish, cichlids, but even then, the cichlids were small, only 2-4 inches.
My planting has remained heavy, and the tank has never been overstocked.
Although there is no "rule" of how long it takes to cycle, the process involves building up large populations of beneficial bacteria, and this always takes time. So if you start with too many, or too large fish, for that size bacterial population, your chance of success is greatly reduced.
The shot above was taken yesterday, after the tank went 2 months without filtration because our islands water plant went down. I believe because the tank was not over stocked, and heavily planted, are the reason there were no looses during the no filtration period..
If the tank had been over stocked, it may have only taken a few days for fish to start kicking the bucket.
.
For this new tank, it was set up and planted heavily. My first "sacrificial" fish were a couple dozen gambusia, which survived the initial couple weeks, although I didn't expect them to.
They were later eaten by the cichlids added down the road.
If small enough fish are added gradually , they may never produce a large spike in tanks this large, because the cycle is so gradual, as long as you have patience.
During initial set up time, I did small daily water changes.
It took about 2 months before I added my main focus fish, cichlids, but even then, the cichlids were small, only 2-4 inches.
My planting has remained heavy, and the tank has never been overstocked.
Although there is no "rule" of how long it takes to cycle, the process involves building up large populations of beneficial bacteria, and this always takes time. So if you start with too many, or too large fish, for that size bacterial population, your chance of success is greatly reduced.
The shot above was taken yesterday, after the tank went 2 months without filtration because our islands water plant went down. I believe because the tank was not over stocked, and heavily planted, are the reason there were no looses during the no filtration period..
If the tank had been over stocked, it may have only taken a few days for fish to start kicking the bucket.
.
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In terms of timing, plan on it taking at least a month to fully cycle where you are seeing zero ammonia and nitrite. If a significant fish load is added at that point, it could take two months or more for the bacteria to catch up, so don't be surprised if you start detecting ammonia and nitrite again after adding fish.
Yes I do. It's the API one. The master test kit. Will this test for everything?
Well I think I may do the flake method as I can't add live fish to sacrifice. I'll be adding a 12" Piraya so they will die eventually. Have you ever done the fish food method with flakes?
With the flake method, do I have to do daily water changes?
Would adding one 12" Piraya be a heavy fish load? And if I have my tank fully cycled and then add the fish, and the ammonia and nitrite raises, what do I do to counteract it?
Personally never used flake food.
No need to do wc's let parameters stabilize.
Like a member stated before with 2 FX cannister filters that should be more than enough bio filtration to handle 1 12" Piraya Piranha. You would have to overfeed or leave uneaten food in the aquarium for the 2 filters to not handle the bioload.
Yes the Master API FRESHWATER TEST KIT is all you need.
