Tried to kill the Blackbeard Algae while on my Sword Plants and Anubius in my 29 gallon. This was the only aquarium with the issue. I've read that it can be introduced by a new plant. So anyway pulled all the plants out and dipped the leaves only in part Peroxide and water for 5 minutes. Kept the Sword Plant roots out of the solution. Hopefully the Blackbeard Algae dies because it's apita to remove.
Took action for Blackbeard Algae
- Thread starter tlindsey
- Start date
Good luck! That stuff is a pain.
If that doesn’t work, I had luck using scuds to eat it, but it may not be as simple with live plants.
If that doesn’t work, I had luck using scuds to eat it, but it may not be as simple with live plants.
I thought about scuds because your post came to mind today after placing the plants back in the aquarium.
This morning took out Anubius and let them sit for 5 minutes then wiped Seachem Flourish Excel on the entire plants. I will update with the results.
Good luck fighting it. It is hard to get rid of.
I still have a little of it, but I am at a much better place now, with relatively little of it left, and declining. Yeah!
I found the approach that worked best for me is a combination of sustained (read, weeks to months) mechanical and chemical attack on the BBA:
- Mechanical - physical (hand removal) of as much as possible, particularly new tufts on surfaces), then further vacuuming. Chemical by itself does not seem to do it. From driftwood, fingernail removal is best. From plants (depending on species), cutting off affected leaves/stems.
- Chemical - sprayed peroxide (full strength) onto surfaces. At every weekly water change, I begin with physical removal, then drain the tank as far as planned (usually 70% or more, while vacuuming loosened BBA), then spray surfaces (plumbing, heaters, driftwood, rocks, plants), followed by a few minutes wait time for the peroxide to act upon colonies, then refill tank. Over time, following the spraying (couple of days) existing colonies become reddish, then grayish, then die and fall off. Very important - when colonies are chemically affected (reddish, grayish), mechanical removal is easier and most effective. Thus, the chemical attack of one week is the edge one should bank on for next week's mechanical attack.
One more thing, if individual gravel pieces or sand are colonized, best is to replace substratum. For large (and desirable) rocks, take out, dip in peroxide (or clorox), then scrub with Scotch Bright pads, rinse, and reintroduce into tank. Do not spray Clorox onto aquarium.
Again, I still have some BBA and continue to fight it, but I have been able to save my planted tanks (for the most part).
Good luck!
I still have a little of it, but I am at a much better place now, with relatively little of it left, and declining. Yeah!
I found the approach that worked best for me is a combination of sustained (read, weeks to months) mechanical and chemical attack on the BBA:
- Mechanical - physical (hand removal) of as much as possible, particularly new tufts on surfaces), then further vacuuming. Chemical by itself does not seem to do it. From driftwood, fingernail removal is best. From plants (depending on species), cutting off affected leaves/stems.
- Chemical - sprayed peroxide (full strength) onto surfaces. At every weekly water change, I begin with physical removal, then drain the tank as far as planned (usually 70% or more, while vacuuming loosened BBA), then spray surfaces (plumbing, heaters, driftwood, rocks, plants), followed by a few minutes wait time for the peroxide to act upon colonies, then refill tank. Over time, following the spraying (couple of days) existing colonies become reddish, then grayish, then die and fall off. Very important - when colonies are chemically affected (reddish, grayish), mechanical removal is easier and most effective. Thus, the chemical attack of one week is the edge one should bank on for next week's mechanical attack.
One more thing, if individual gravel pieces or sand are colonized, best is to replace substratum. For large (and desirable) rocks, take out, dip in peroxide (or clorox), then scrub with Scotch Bright pads, rinse, and reintroduce into tank. Do not spray Clorox onto aquarium.
Again, I still have some BBA and continue to fight it, but I have been able to save my planted tanks (for the most part).
Good luck!
After 5 minutes of putting plants back in aquarium noticed algae on the plants turning red. I agree a very difficult battle.
Next I buy plants I will treat them first prior to placing them in the aquarium.
Next I buy plants I will treat them first prior to placing them in the aquarium.
I use 3% hydrogen peroxide with a fine syringe (like insulin syringes) for BBA. I switch the filter off for 5-10 mins then spray a little (I did max 2ml in 15 gallons) and let it cook. I am unsure of the maximum dosage but have not had issues yet. The BBA goes pink and the shrimp nibble it off 
Update finally getting control of the Blackbeard Algae. Reduced hours of lighting and dosing with both Flourish Excel and Hydrogen Peroxide. Amazon Swords are continually producing leaves. Most importantly no fish deaths during this process.
If its Cyanobacteria, I assume you've already tried this, but just in case.
Here's how I combated it.
A shot below taken in June of 2013, it was isolated in only 2 of my 20 tanks (both on the same sump), it was especially thick, on the log below
The day of the pic, in early June I started using Rid-X as a probiotic source of competitive bacteria to compete
By late July, the shot below of the same log
I added the Rid-X to a filter sock in the sump, one spoonful per month.
Here's how I combated it.
A shot below taken in June of 2013, it was isolated in only 2 of my 20 tanks (both on the same sump), it was especially thick, on the log below
The day of the pic, in early June I started using Rid-X as a probiotic source of competitive bacteria to compete
By late July, the shot below of the same log
I added the Rid-X to a filter sock in the sump, one spoonful per month.
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