500 gallon plywood aquarium- Advice needed.

Ggazonas

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2021
5
3
3
42
I constructed a 500 gallon plywood tank in my basement which is tucked into the corner so just the front panel with the glass is exposed. It measures 4’ deep, 5’ tall and 5’ wide. The front glass panel is 54” wide x 46” tall and 1 1/4” thick. The tank when full of water would only be about 52” to the top of the water. The tank was constructed with 2x4 at 12” on center with 3/4” sanded plywood. The front corner has a 4x4 post on either end with lag bolts going in opposite direction to tie in the walls. There are also lags in the bottom plate of the walls every 18” and lags all around the front glass panel every 12”. The base of the tank was constructed with 2x6 at 12” on center with extra bracing between them. The floor of the tank has 3 sheets of 1/2” plywood then a final sheet of 3/4”. The bracing at the top is three 2x6 that run from front to back. One in the center and the others on either end. The front glass panel sits in a frame inside the tank which is 1 1/4” deep. The tank was sealed with pond armor. All the corners have fiberglass mess. I did a minimum of 4 coats with a couple of extra heavy coats in the corners.

I recently water tested it by filling it 1/3rd of the way up. I ran a pump inside the tank to circulate water and had no leaking after 4 days. I drained it and set it up. I refilled it to the same mark and let it sit for 3 days then filled it up to 2/3rds full. No leaking for another 4 days. I now had it not leak for over a week and a half. I filled it up another 6” no leaking. At this point I’m 6” from my top water line. I filled it another 3”. 5 hours later I came to check it and about 12” of water was missing. I noticed leaking from the front corner. My wife and began to drain it. At the halfway point it stopped leaking.

I drained the tank down to a few inches. I inspected the tank but I can’t find any obvious cracks or holes. All the expoy seems look fine. My only thought is the joint between the glass and wood on the inside. I’m thinking I might need to remove all the silicone from the joint between the glass and the frame in which the glass sits. Unfortunately I can’t disassemble the tank to figure it out because of the way it’s built and I don’t see any other problems. I do plan on removing the rocks and sand to thoroughly inspect the tank.

move attached a few photos of the tank with water and without. I can take some others of the inside if that would help.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

4350F026-8698-41E6-9DDA-89DEF5F5189D.jpeg

0A1EB75F-0738-458B-8F60-10377A0BB742.jpeg

5106E862-2F32-4C1A-A5AF-4104E446EC13.jpeg
 

fishdance

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 30, 2007
1,847
1,010
179
This sounds like a pressure leak. When the water depth increases, the wood moves more than the rigid glass tearing the adhesive. The most likely place is the center of the bottom glass - wood interface (deepest pressure, longest span from braces) but the water can "run" and appear elsewhere, including higher than the leak location.

Most fixes include widening the glass - wood overlap, stiffening the wood to stop flex, perhaps fibreglass over the glass & wood join (to stiffen as well as water proof). Or keeping the water level lower but there is no guarantee of future failure.
 

fishdance

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 30, 2007
1,847
1,010
179
What silicon was used? It can take 4 weeks for full cure. And I've had tanks fail 10 days after full cure. If neutral cure silicon was used, you may be able to add new over old but it's not ideal.

If you re-do the adhesive, look into PU adhesive rather than silicon as it new PU will stick to old PU even years later.

Quick advice (without seeking more details from you). The safest fastest fix in my opinion is to remove the glass, use a steel or aluminium frame that can be screwed into wood, and set the glass into the frame. This strengthens the glass as well as wood opening.

Send me a private message if you want more details. It's never a one size fits all so I'm not going to publicly post.
 
Last edited:

Ggazonas

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2021
5
3
3
42
What silicon was used? It can take 4 weeks for full cure. And I've had tanks fail 10 days after full cure. If neutral cure silicon was used, you may be able to add new over old but it's not ideal.

If you re-do the adhesive, look into PU adhesive rather than silicon as it new PU will stick to old PU even years later.

Quick advice (without seeking more details from you). The safest fastest fix in my opinion is to remove the glass, use a steel or aluminium frame that can be screwed into wood, and set the glass into the frame. This strengthens the glass as well as wood opening.

Send me a private message if you want more details. It's never a one size fits all so I'm not going to publicly post.
I used ASI 100% aquarium silicone. I sealed it 3 weeks before I filled it.
 

Ggazonas

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2021
5
3
3
42
This sounds like a pressure leak. When the water depth increases, the wood moves more than the rigid glass tearing the adhesive. The most likely place is the center of the bottom glass - wood interface (deepest pressure, longest span from braces) but the water can "run" and appear elsewhere, including higher than the leak location.

Most fixes include widening the glass - wood overlap, stiffening the wood to stop flex, perhaps fibreglass over the glass & wood join (to stiffen as well as water proof). Or keeping the water level lower but there is no guarantee of future failure.
thank you for the information. I was thinking this was a pressure leak given that it was fine prior to reaching a certain height and the leak stopped as soon as the water got below a certain point. That does make sense. Widening the glass isn’t really an option. The glass panel cost me about $1700 that is currently installed. I suppose I could overlap wood over the glass around the bottom and two sides to stiffen the sides. Do you think 2x6 would be sufficient? This would allow for a 1 1/2” overlap of wood over the glass. I could then seal the wood with a pu adhesive to the glass. What do you think.
 

fishdance

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 30, 2007
1,847
1,010
179
Which ASI did you use? Hopefully one suitable for structural glazing? Look up the technical specification sheet). If not structural glazing grade, I'd definitely be removing the silicon. High modulus (flexibility) is preferable, say 50% in this situation.

You need to decide whether to try patching (may take several attempts) or removing the glass, cleaning and starting fresh. Second most likely point of leakage are the bottom corners of glass panel. (Not sure how you framed the opening). It would be good to locate the leak if your patching and don't forget the wood tank will expand and contract each water change - depending on how much water is removed.

For glass - wood overlap, I recommend 75mm minimum if the framed opening is solid. If it's moving, I wouldn't bother until you can stop the flex. Screwing a 2x6 plank accross the bottom should work but it looks like you already did that?
 

Ggazonas

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2021
5
3
3
42
Which ASI did you use? Hopefully one suitable for structural glazing? Look up the technical specification sheet). If not structural glazing grade, I'd definitely be removing the silicon. High modulus (flexibility) is preferable, say 50% in this situation.

You need to decide whether to try patching (may take several attempts) or removing the glass, cleaning and starting fresh. Second most likely point of leakage are the bottom corners of glass panel. (Not sure how you framed the opening). It would be good to locate the leak if your patching and don't forget the wood tank will expand and contract each water change - depending on how much water is removed.

For glass - wood overlap, I recommend 75mm minimum if the framed opening is solid. If it's moving, I wouldn't bother until you can stop the flex. Screwing a 2x6 plank accross the bottom should work but it looks like you already did that?
the silicone I used is rated up to tanks with constant pressure of 750 gallons of water according to the tube. It also says that it will take 212 psi to shear it. Other than that I haven’t checked the specs.

I like your steel frame idea however my concern is trying to free the glass from the 1 1/2” wide silicone on the front and 1 1/4 on the sides, plus the glass weighs over 300 lbs.

I have wood around the front but I wouldn’t consider it structural. It was merely installed to hold the glass as a frame. See pictures below. Currently it’s flush with the glass.

my current thought is to install 2x6 around the glass on three sides. Bottom and the sides going up. This would extend over the glass and I install another bead of silicone around this interior frame. I can also install a 2x6 on the bottom running to the back abs possibly one on either side on the bottom of the tank. I can use lag bolts through the front to keep the bottom from flexing. Let me know if that seems practical.

221EA875-C241-48C2-8124-DF80388E00CA.jpeg

51DF4D91-7AB4-4DC9-A624-AFA60A948C5A.jpeg

14B01098-9088-4180-90DD-AFEAFC0939B1.jpeg

7621271A-E05B-4849-B1EB-6AC4681C832D.jpeg
 

jjohnwm

Sausage Finger Spam Slayer
MFK Member
Mar 29, 2019
4,211
10,708
194
Manitoba, Canada
I'm following this with interest. I have never constructed a tank taller than 24 inches, so can't add anything worthwhile in terms of assistance.

One comment: you are calling this a 500 gallon build, but I believe the dimensions you gave translate to 750 gallons.
 

fishdance

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 30, 2007
1,847
1,010
179
Would you like to increase your post count (dummy posts are fine) to 5 or more so that your account can send & receive private messages. I'm happy to help offline. Need to discuss concepts to assess your priorities before providing suggestions.

You may be able to spot the leak if you examine the glue seam from inside. The current overlap is far too narrow at 1.5 inches.

I had to remove a 3m long x 2m high glass sheet with 70mm overlap. I used cheap paring knifes bent in vice to create left and right angle knives. You can buy specific tools used to strip car windscreens out or an electric multi tool (oscillating) which will scratch glass & frame so not really recommended. A simple F clamp at top will stop the panel falling without adhesive. The thickness of adhesive (gap between glass and frame) becomes important for structural applications.
 

Ggazonas

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2021
5
3
3
42
I'm following this with interest. I have never constructed a tank taller than 24 inches, so can't add anything worthwhile in terms of assistance.

One comment: you are calling this a 500 gallon build, but I believe the dimensions you gave translate to 750 gallons.
You are correct but those are the outside dimensions. The inside dimensions come out to approximately 540
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjohnwm
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store