Wow, that’s high praise! I will say, I essentially learned everything about how to do this from reading posts on this forum.
The experiment continues!
210 gallon Frontosa build
- Thread starter Caperguy99
- Start date
The experiment continues!
The tank has been stocked for four months now and all seems to be going well. Homer, the tank boss, seems to be around 3.5 inches at this point - and the smallest is around 2 inches. Is it normal for the small ones to grow so slow? It seems like the biggest fish are far larger than the two smallest.
In terms of feeding, I give them Northfin and Hikari pellets most of the time, and mix it up with some frozen krill or brine shrimp. No problem getting them to eat anything. For the last few weeks, once a week I’ve been finely slicing up a tiny piece of raw, uncooked, peeled market shrimp and dropping them in. They stuff their mouths with it and retreat back to their caves - it’s pretty fun. Does anyone else try mussels or anything?
Behavior wise, they seem to get along. Homer puffs out at some of the next-largest, and sometimes I come down in the morning to some frayed fins, but they all heal right away. One thing I did notice periodically is “flashing” - it seems like some of them do it once in a while. It isn’t a repeated behavior, and it’s not the same fish each time - so could it just be scratching an itch?
Another question - does anyone have any idea how old baby c. gibberosa are when they ship out? I should have asked Alison when I ordered them, but didn’t think to - but I’d like to have an idea of approximately how old they are overall.
Overall, I’m loving the rank and the fish. Prepping for some FX-6 maintenance before the holidays - but not expecting much - they are still small, after all.
Some new pics:
In terms of feeding, I give them Northfin and Hikari pellets most of the time, and mix it up with some frozen krill or brine shrimp. No problem getting them to eat anything. For the last few weeks, once a week I’ve been finely slicing up a tiny piece of raw, uncooked, peeled market shrimp and dropping them in. They stuff their mouths with it and retreat back to their caves - it’s pretty fun. Does anyone else try mussels or anything?
Behavior wise, they seem to get along. Homer puffs out at some of the next-largest, and sometimes I come down in the morning to some frayed fins, but they all heal right away. One thing I did notice periodically is “flashing” - it seems like some of them do it once in a while. It isn’t a repeated behavior, and it’s not the same fish each time - so could it just be scratching an itch?
Another question - does anyone have any idea how old baby c. gibberosa are when they ship out? I should have asked Alison when I ordered them, but didn’t think to - but I’d like to have an idea of approximately how old they are overall.
Overall, I’m loving the rank and the fish. Prepping for some FX-6 maintenance before the holidays - but not expecting much - they are still small, after all.
Some new pics:
The tank looks great. It is definitely normal for Gibberosa to grow at different rates. What I have found is typically the quicker they grow the more likely they are males. When I was breeding and growing out juveniles to sell I would notice that trend.
As far as how old the babies are I would say likely 6-8 months to get to around a inch and a half. I would raise up the fry in a 40 breeder as free swimmers until they would consistently eat and then I would put them in a 75 gallon.
I have always kept it simple for food, a staple pellet, frozen krill, frozen Mysis, and market shrimp. I'm sure however they will eat any clean and fresh seafood.
Flashing is something I would see after doing water changes from time to time. However if you keep your parameters consistent and keep nitrates below 20 ppm you should be fine.
As far as how old the babies are I would say likely 6-8 months to get to around a inch and a half. I would raise up the fry in a 40 breeder as free swimmers until they would consistently eat and then I would put them in a 75 gallon.
I have always kept it simple for food, a staple pellet, frozen krill, frozen Mysis, and market shrimp. I'm sure however they will eat any clean and fresh seafood.
Flashing is something I would see after doing water changes from time to time. However if you keep your parameters consistent and keep nitrates below 20 ppm you should be fine.
Thanks for the information - very useful. And yes, in terms of the flashing you are correct - I only see it a little bit after water changes.
Homer, my biggest fish, suddenly developed what looks like a pimple on his top lip. Having never kept cichlids at all before, I’m probably paying too much attention to it - but can somebody let me know if this is just a flesh wound from a little tussling, or is this something I should be at all concerned about?
Do you see a behavioral change? Is the fish behaving normal, eating, swimming, and social with the other fish?
I have had fish with torn fins and cloudy eyes. The best thing to do is to monitor and have great water. If you are worried or if the fish is not behaving normal I would do some salt.
I have had fish with torn fins and cloudy eyes. The best thing to do is to monitor and have great water. If you are worried or if the fish is not behaving normal I would do some salt.
Check and post your current water parameters plz mate.
It is very possible it is a wound from lip locking or even from sand sifting given the location.
I agree w B Bwirtz regarding clean water and I would definitely add salt at 1tbsp/5gal to reduce bacterial load and decrease the risk for further infection. I would keep the salt at that concentration for 7-10 days, replacing w any water changes you perform, and then let it dilute out with regular water changes after that 10 day period is over. If the sore bursts you could catch Homer and put a dab of betadine or methylene blue in the wound, but tbh the salt and clean water should be enough at this stage
It is very possible it is a wound from lip locking or even from sand sifting given the location.
I agree w B Bwirtz regarding clean water and I would definitely add salt at 1tbsp/5gal to reduce bacterial load and decrease the risk for further infection. I would keep the salt at that concentration for 7-10 days, replacing w any water changes you perform, and then let it dilute out with regular water changes after that 10 day period is over. If the sore bursts you could catch Homer and put a dab of betadine or methylene blue in the wound, but tbh the salt and clean water should be enough at this stage
