630G TruView Acrylic AIO Aquasystem Build

FinalBoss

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2012
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47
31
A special thanks to Eric and Alex at Vanstar for hooking this monster tank up. I've been searching for a 6' x 3' x 2' acrylic tank for awhile and I knew I had to have this one as soon as I saw it at their shop. A few weeks later and it was on the way home. Also, a special thanks to Jay and his buddies for helping load this thing into our van.





So, this is a 71" x 48" x 48" TruView Aquasystem tank with a built in sump. The front and back are 1.25" acrylic and the rest is 1". Internal volume wise, it measures 630 gallons with 95 gallons of that comprising the integrated sump.



I'm hoping to keep this log so I can keep my many questions contained in a single thread. I haven't found much info on this type of tank and specifically on converting an integrated sump into a K1 fluidized moving bed system. I've spent the past few weeks researching the ideal setup for this AIO and I'll begin wet sanding/buffing this weekend.

I currently have a planted 150g with 60g sump, FX6, and 2215 that houses my Jardini, ITT & NTT Dats, a Spotted Pike Characin, Endli & Ornate Bichir, and Irwini Cats. The plan is for more Dats and Cichla.

I'm hoping I can lean on the collective knowledge of this forum to help me with my build.

First, any suggestions on getting this old protective paper off the back? I've tried GooGone (on a small corner just in case it causes hazing/problems) and a razor blade (gently), but have been unsuccessful. I have a RO palm sander, 800 - 2500 grit sandpaper, and Novus 1 - 3 for the rest of the tank, but would prefer not to go through the whole process on the back since it will not be visible and I won't be able to refinish the inside of the sump anyway because of the depth and limited access through the cutouts.



Next, I planned on getting a nice 18" steel stand since this was going into my living room. Once my wife saw the size (it's bigger in real life than when planning with a tape measure) I've now decided (through not so subtle coaxing) to keep it in the garage and apply the funds elsewhere. Therefore, I plan on doing a simple concrete block stand two high, stacked horizontally holes up, for a total height of 16" inches (16" x 8" x 8" blocks from HD) with a 3/4 plywood sheet on top. Does this sound like the right configuration?

First problem is leveling since my garage is a bit uneven where I plan to place it. Can I shim under concrete blocks? If so, wood or metal? Any pointers? Next, is design. Should I make a full bed of concrete blocks or just support all the way around the edges and down the middle every 2'? My main concern is structural and that it's level over looks at this point.

Next, is the AIO integrated sump. Here's a picture of the stock setup. Water comes in through the weir and drops unfiltered into an accessory chamber. It then flows over into the next chamber where it goes through mechanical filtration pads and then flows down through bioballs. Then it goes to the return pump chamber, through the pump, and back to the tank. My issue is that I feel like the accessory chambers are wasted space (since this sump already cuts into the interior footprint of the tank). I plan on adding two 300w heaters to the return pump chamber.







Here's a picture of my proposed plan.



Would you recommend a 39" Poret Cube in the accessory chamber? Maybe with a Jetlifter overflowing directly onto the mechanical filter pads just to use that wasted space? Any other creative use of the two accessory chambers?

Next, I have 1 cu. meter of K1 ready for bio but I need something to keep it from getting into the return pump chamber. Egg crate is too big. Any suggestions? Low PPI Poret perhaps? Bioballs with egg crate on top? Anything available from HD or Lowes?

Next, there's a second unused 1" bulkhead next to the 1.5" return bulkhead. Any creative ideas for that? Would a second return pump be necessary? I'd imagine both pumps would go out in the event of a power failure, but maybe just in case the main pump fails? I'd like to keep it simple just for the fact that access will be difficult after setup, but if it's worth the effort then I'm all for it.

Finally, there are two 1" bulkhead holes drilled very close to the bottom of the right accessory chamber. I'm planning either bare bottom or slate so I'd like to somehow direct waste into these two holes (hopefully to minimize vacuuming a 48" tall tank) and up towards the mechanical filter pads. Any creative suggestions? I've looked into a SLO, a powerhead directed up, or an inline pump with return right to the filter pad, but could use some ideas. Access to the bottom of the sump is near impossible and even getting a bulkhead plug in there will be difficult.

I apologize for the wall of text, but I've researched a ton and these issues remain unclear or unresolved. Thanks!
 
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Dloks

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Feb 5, 2011
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Ive seen this tank many many times at Alex no comment on the filtration system but awesome tank bro! Good luck and can’t wait to see it finished
 
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esoxlucius

Balaclava Bot Butcher
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Dec 30, 2015
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That is one hell of a tank. First thing I noticed though was what you've already realised yourself, and that is the access to the whole sump area for maintainable is awful. Once that tanks filled and up against a wall you could have some real problems. For an instance, I like to dismantle my return pumps and thoroughly clean them once or twice a year. How on earth are you going to do just basic stuff like that without draining that monster and moving it out from against the wall? Also, you say the tank is 4ft tall. So once it''s elevated even more when it''s on its stand, even getting to your filter pads is going to be a stepladders and stretch job.

If the tank''s going in your garage where aesthetics don't really matter then i'd seriously think about setting it up away from the wall. It'll save you a whole heap of trouble long term I think.
 

FinalBoss

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2012
22
47
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Esoxlucius,

I agree and anticipate issues modifying anything once it's setup. I hope to never have to drain and move this thing so am trying my best to plan ahead. Having said that, I'll have complete access to the sides and can reach the center cutout for return pump maintenance. I can disconnect the return hose from the top and pull the pump out with the hose or, worst case scenario, the power cord. I've included additional pictures to better illustrate and clarify the issues I've raised in the first post. Thanks and I appreciate the suggestions!

Right side of sump



Center



Return bulkheads



Left side



Inside



Bottom holes



Bottom hole closeup



Overflow detail

 

esoxlucius

Balaclava Bot Butcher
MFK Member
Dec 30, 2015
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Yeah I suppose if you're happy pulling your pump up out of that central section with the cord/return line then it's doable. Your evaporation rate will show itself in your pump section too. I just have a quick glance down in my sump once in a while to see if it needs topping up. You won't be able to see where your levels at unless you stretch right over your tank and peer down the pump section with a torch. Not a massive problem but still something to think about. You've heard of the old adage, out of sight out of mind. If you forget about your top up because you can't easily see it then you're in danger of running your pump dry.
 
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esoxlucius

Balaclava Bot Butcher
MFK Member
Dec 30, 2015
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Haha, forget that last post. I've just realised that your baffle configuration means your pump section won't run dry.
 
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cigars

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
May 3, 2011
2,503
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Question will having the two holes drilled at the bottom render the overflows usless? meaning will it fill the filtration area to the water level in the tank? If so I know you said you will be using k1 are you planning a reactor in the bio ball section?
 
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FinalBoss

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2012
22
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Cigars,

The water level in the tank is higher than the bio chamber inlet so it should be okay. Also, no reactor, just planning on blocking the K1 in place in the two bioball chambers.

Update:

Slow going today and made little progress on removing the old protective paper. It’s been soaking in vegetable oil so I’ll give it another shot tomorrow. Any suggestions?

Also, the 800 grit wasn’t coarse enough for some of the deeper scratches in the acrylic so ordered 400 and 600. FYI, Lowe’s doesn’t carry anything finer than 320 grit for orbital sanders.

Also, received an email response from Mr. Tanner at Swiss Tropicals letting me know that Poret blocks in the “dead” space accessory chamber will not work without flow so that idea is out. He suggested K1 in the unfiltered accessory chambers since they’ll knock themselves clean so I may go that direction.
 
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JK47

Retired MFK Admin
MFK Member
Aug 4, 2008
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A special thanks to Eric and Alex at Vanstar for hooking this monster tank up. I've been searching for a 6' x 3' x 2' acrylic tank for awhile and I knew I had to have this one as soon as I saw it at their shop. A few weeks later and it was on the way home. Also, a special thanks to Jay and his buddies for helping load this thing into our van.





So, this is a 71" x 48" x 48" TruView Aquasystem tank with a built in sump. The front and back are 1.25" acrylic and the rest is 1". Internal volume wise, it measures 630 gallons with 95 gallons of that comprising the integrated sump.



I'm hoping to keep this log so I can keep my many questions contained in a single thread. I haven't found much info on this type of tank and specifically on converting an integrated sump into a K1 fluidized moving bed system. I've spent the past few weeks researching the ideal setup for this AIO and I'll begin wet sanding/buffing this weekend.

I currently have a planted 150g with 60g sump, FX6, and 2215 that houses my Jardini, ITT & NTT Dats, a Spotted Pike Characin, Endli & Ornate Bichir, and Irwini Cats. The plan is for more Dats and Cichla.

I'm hoping I can lean on the collective knowledge of this forum to help me with my build.

First, any suggestions on getting this old protective paper off the back? I've tried GooGone (on a small corner just in case it causes hazing/problems) and a razor blade (gently), but have been unsuccessful. I have a RO palm sander, 800 - 2500 grit sandpaper, and Novus 1 - 3 for the rest of the tank, but would prefer not to go through the whole process on the back since it will not be visible and I won't be able to refinish the inside of the sump anyway because of the depth and limited access through the cutouts.



Next, I planned on getting a nice 18" steel stand since this was going into my living room. Once my wife saw the size (it's bigger in real life than when planning with a tape measure) I've now decided (through not so subtle coaxing) to keep it in the garage and apply the funds elsewhere. Therefore, I plan on doing a simple concrete block stand two high, stacked horizontally holes up, for a total height of 16" inches (16" x 8" x 8" blocks from HD) with a 3/4 plywood sheet on top. Does this sound like the right configuration?

First problem is leveling since my garage is a bit uneven where I plan to place it. Can I shim under concrete blocks? If so, wood or metal? Any pointers? Next, is design. Should I make a full bed of concrete blocks or just support all the way around the edges and down the middle every 2'? My main concern is structural and that it's level over looks at this point.

Next, is the AIO integrated sump. Here's a picture of the stock setup. Water comes in through the weir and drops unfiltered into an accessory chamber. It then flows over into the next chamber where it goes through mechanical filtration pads and then flows down through bioballs. Then it goes to the return pump chamber, through the pump, and back to the tank. My issue is that I feel like the accessory chambers are wasted space (since this sump already cuts into the interior footprint of the tank). I plan on adding two 300w heaters to the return pump chamber.







Here's a picture of my proposed plan.



Would you recommend a 39" Poret Cube in the accessory chamber? Maybe with a Jetlifter overflowing directly onto the mechanical filter pads just to use that wasted space? Any other creative use of the two accessory chambers?

Next, I have 1 cu. meter of K1 ready for bio but I need something to keep it from getting into the return pump chamber. Egg crate is too big. Any suggestions? Low PPI Poret perhaps? Bioballs with egg crate on top? Anything available from HD or Lowes?

Next, there's a second unused 1" bulkhead next to the 1.5" return bulkhead. Any creative ideas for that? Would a second return pump be necessary? I'd imagine both pumps would go out in the event of a power failure, but maybe just in case the main pump fails? I'd like to keep it simple just for the fact that access will be difficult after setup, but if it's worth the effort then I'm all for it.

Finally, there are two 1" bulkhead holes drilled very close to the bottom of the right accessory chamber. I'm planning either bare bottom or slate so I'd like to somehow direct waste into these two holes (hopefully to minimize vacuuming a 48" tall tank) and up towards the mechanical filter pads. Any creative suggestions? I've looked into a SLO, a powerhead directed up, or an inline pump with return right to the filter pad, but could use some ideas. Access to the bottom of the sump is near impossible and even getting a bulkhead plug in there will be difficult.

I apologize for the wall of text, but I've researched a ton and these issues remain unclear or unresolved. Thanks!
Killer project!! Will follow for sure. Couple things:

Leave the paper on if you can. Even wet sanding after a razor job is a ton of work you can avoid if it isn’t visible.

To keep your K1 contained, head to Michaels or similar craft store. The mesh sheets used for knitting are stellar at containing K1, cheap and come in black and other colors.
 

FinalBoss

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2012
22
47
31
Thanks JK47. I’ll give Michaels a shot tomorrow for that sheet! Also, leaving that paper on there will bug me forever. Might just have to bite the bullet and sand it off. Updates to follow after receiving the coarser grits.
 
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