8 year old BD Male passed away.

Black_Diamond

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 6, 2017
75
62
36
41
Reno, NV
So you still have ammonia somewhere between 0.25-0.5ppm. Ammonia is more toxic at higher pH, meaning the same ammonia reading at pH 7 or less is more toxic to fish when the pH is >7. Your pH looks to be around 8, so the ammonia present is more toxic in these water conditions.
Your nitrite looks to be around 0.25, the lowest readable level. It is still stressful to fish even at this low level, but the addition of salt so the system will enable the fish to avert nitrite poisoning. 1tbsp/5gal. I will attach a pic here soon off my cell phone of the salt I buy from home depot for $8/40#, a necessary quantity for large volume tanks like ours.
Your nitrate looks to be 5-10 which is a very acceptable level, and what I target my return too on water change day. Once the ammonia & nitrite present are converted I would expect your nitrate to be somewhere in the 40-80 range.
The good news about the presence of nitrite means that the nitrobactors that convert ammonia to nitrite are present in your filter. And the presence of nitrate means the nitrosomas that convert harmful nitrite to less harmful nitrate are also present.
This is great news because it means your beneficial bacterial colony is present & on their way to a full cycle once more.
Man thank you for all your knowledge I really appreciate it. Where did you learn all that about the nitrogen cycle is there a decent book you recommend on basic fish habitat water practices or water stability? I am unable to get another ray anytime soon but I am getting a Fly River turtle and some arrowana and dont want to kill them obviously.
 
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Black_Diamond

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 6, 2017
75
62
36
41
Reno, NV
So you still have ammonia somewhere between 0.25-0.5ppm. Ammonia is more toxic at higher pH, meaning the same ammonia reading at pH 7 or less is more toxic to fish when the pH is >7. Your pH looks to be around 8, so the ammonia present is more toxic in these water conditions.
Your nitrite looks to be around 0.25, the lowest readable level. It is still stressful to fish even at this low level, but the addition of salt so the system will enable the fish to avert nitrite poisoning. 1tbsp/5gal. I will attach a pic here soon off my cell phone of the salt I buy from home depot for $8/40#, a necessary quantity for large volume tanks like ours.
Your nitrate looks to be 5-10 which is a very acceptable level, and what I target my return too on water change day. Once the ammonia & nitrite present are converted I would expect your nitrate to be somewhere in the 40-80 range.
The good news about the presence of nitrite means that the nitrobactors that convert ammonia to nitrite are present in your filter. And the presence of nitrate means the nitrosomas that convert harmful nitrite to less harmful nitrate are also present.
This is great news because it means your beneficial bacterial colony is present & on their way to a full cycle once more.
After re reading this I just wanna make sure i understand something correctly, are you saying when the nitrites and ammonia convert that my nitrates are actually going to go up?
 
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danotaylor

Dovii
MFK Member
Jun 26, 2024
421
594
100
54
Okeana Ohio
After re reading this I just wanna make sure i understand something correctly, are you saying when the nitrites and ammonia convert that my nitrates are actually going to go up?
Exactly. The end product of the nitrogen cycle is nitrate. Ammonia is the first of the toxic waste. It converts to nitrite. Nitrite then converts to nitrate. Because you have ammonia and nitrite already present, once converted your nitrate reading will be higher than what is read right now.
If your ammonia and nitrite were already at 0 your nitrate level would represent the total available invisible waste conversion in your system.
I am glad to be of assistance to you mate. I got my first tank in 1981 and have been an active aquarist ever since. There is lots of info re the nitrogen cycle on the internet, and for decades have been an active forum participant both in Australia where I grew up, and here in the US where I now live. I have interacted with many extremely knowledgeable people in the hobby, and have also designed and set up many hydroponic plant production systems whose whole mode for operational success is the balance of fish waste conversion to plant available nutrients created by the nitrogen cycle.
I am glad this whole situation has not caused you to back down, and to look at your practices and outcomes and desire to learn. With the attitude and determination you are displaying you are poised for great success! Keep at it. We’re here to help!
 
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Black_Diamond

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 6, 2017
75
62
36
41
Reno, NV
Exactly. The end product of the nitrogen cycle is nitrate. Ammonia is the first of the toxic waste. It converts to nitrite. Nitrite then converts to nitrate. Because you have ammonia and nitrite already present, once converted your nitrate reading will be higher than what is read right now.
If your ammonia and nitrite were already at 0 your nitrate level would represent the total available invisible waste conversion in your system.
I am glad to be of assistance to you mate. I got my first tank in 1981 and have been an active aquarist ever since. There is lots of info re the nitrogen cycle on the internet, and for decades have been an active forum participant both in Australia where I grew up, and here in the US where I now live. I have interacted with many extremely knowledgeable people in the hobby, and have also designed and set up many hydroponic plant production systems whose whole mode for operational success is the balance of fish waste conversion to plant available nutrients created by the nitrogen cycle.
I am glad this whole situation has not caused you to back down, and to look at your practices and outcomes and desire to learn. With the attitude and determination you are displaying you are poised for great success! Keep at it. We’re here to help!
Being from Australia what is your favorite aquatic animal? Anything we do not or are not allowed to have in the states? You live in a much better state for fish keeping than I. I would love another ray but would have to fly to ship it to myself as the dealer I know wont ship to my state.
So I decided to go with the fully aquatic Fly River Turtle and now I can actually have a full ecosystem im my 400 gallon as well. Do you have any suggestions on substrate? I need some large driftwood as well I need to research where I can buy 3 footers.
 

danotaylor

Dovii
MFK Member
Jun 26, 2024
421
594
100
54
Okeana Ohio
I actually don’t have a particular favorite aquatic animals. When I was younger living in Australia I was always drawn to species that were on the illegal list in the state I lived in, like PBass. But to be honest, the fish that remain on the top of my hit list are still red rainbow tropheus. I had them one time when I first discovered trophs 20 years ago, it was a very expensive disaster for several reasons and I’ve never had them since. I’ve kept tons of different troph species successfully but never tried RR again. I love looking at big solitary fish w personality, but I am a very social person myself and I enjoy a thriving community of fish where the social structure is very evident.
I like #20 grade pool filter sand or 1-2mm smooth river gravel myself. It doesn’t pack down to create toxic gas pockets. It’s lose enough to gravel vacuum and it doesn’t fly up into the water column and get into my filters and pumps and ruin the impella housing and impella.
I love collecting my own wood. I have bought a piece of wood for my tanks in over 30 years. Creeks and river banks after high water are a great place to look as the high water dumps piles of debris and there is often very cool pieces of wood there for the grabbingI have seen a few FRT’s since joining MFK. Very interesting & cool species!
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with as far as decorating your 400gal mate. Maybe start a new journal thread to detail your journey. I’ll be watching!
 
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Black_Diamond

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 6, 2017
75
62
36
41
Reno, NV
This is the sand I use. It’s inert so it would degrade and change your water hardness or pH. Give it a good wash and have at it!

View attachment 1552238
Oh nice, I was reading they enjoy pea size gravel as well and crushed coral so I think I may try a miture of all of it. I read somewhere that sand actually aids in their digestion so def need regualr filter sand size as well thanks!
 

danotaylor

Dovii
MFK Member
Jun 26, 2024
421
594
100
54
Okeana Ohio
I would avoid crushed coral mate because it will degrade and push your pH up and harden your water. I have no clue what water parameters FRT like though tbh
But if you do end up find a source for a ray the crushed coral can cut their skin and make them prone to infections. If you think to add a ray later if possible I’d skip the coral altogether 👍🏼
 

Black_Diamond

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 6, 2017
75
62
36
41
Reno, NV
I would avoid crushed coral mate because it will degrade and push your pH up and harden your water. I have no clue what water parameters FRT like though tbh
But if you do end up find a source for a ray the crushed coral can cut their skin and make them prone to infections. If you think to add a ray later if possible I’d skip the coral altogether 👍🏼
Ya good thinking, I saw it on a turtle forum to get a more natural look but my ph is naturally above 8 so I better steer clear. And ya could be sharp for them as well, good thinking 🫡
 
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surfermike915

Piranha
MFK Member
Aug 10, 2022
299
431
77
23
Have lost my fair share of big fish since I have been in the hobby. Almost lost a huge Widehead Catfish last week due to a power outage. Very scary stuff. I know you will come back better. Stay strong and you will be okay.
 
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