I think i still have an ich problem in my tank after a huge outbreak i was able to mostly contain, so Im wondering if i can use aquarium salt at this point. I heard it can hurt cory catfish and clown loaches because they are scaleless fish. Is this true?
Aquarium Salt for Ich with Clown Loaches and Cory Catfish
- Thread starter DustinGerard
- Start date
Yes, scale less fish are more sensitive to salt. That being said, I've never had a problem using salt in tanks with my loaches for a short period of time. Salt is not a necessity for getting rid of ick so I would just do half doses. 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons pre diluted before putting it into the tank.
Ok, thank you so much! Just curious, how long should I use salt for and should I use it every day? There are no longer any visible signs of ich, but I have a problem with a fish breathing fast and so someone said it may be the remaining ich that got inside his gills from the previous outbreak. Im increasing the temperature to 86 again, but I want to make sure its gone this time to avoid permanent damage to the little guy (if his problem is even from the ich)
If the visible signs of Ich were eliminated as a result of whatever treatment you used, I would continue that method for a solid 7 to 10 days after the last sign. Why mess with something that was working? Having said that, I've used heat (86-87F) and salt (as high as 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) several times successfully with Clown Loaches and I haven't lost a single one.
Heavy/labored breathing can be a sign of low oxygen levels; this is pretty common when you use the heat method since warmer water does not hold as much oxygen. I would make sure you have lots of surface agitation via an air stone or placing a return at the surface to help agitate/aerate.
Good luck!
Heavy/labored breathing can be a sign of low oxygen levels; this is pretty common when you use the heat method since warmer water does not hold as much oxygen. I would make sure you have lots of surface agitation via an air stone or placing a return at the surface to help agitate/aerate.
Good luck!
Leave the temp raised for 10-14 days and make sure there is plenty of surface agitiation for oxygen transfer. Use it once and it stays in until water is replaced
Aldiaz33, i was using the heat method for 10 days and I got nervous it was too high for them for any longer because my fish seemed to be more aggressive with it that high so I turned it down. Im wishing now I would have left it alone though. Also, i posted a video of my Sev breathing heavy yesterday. Maybe you could take a look at it and see what you think. I have 3 airstones and 2 Magnum 350 canisters running so I'd be suprised if it was an oxygen issue. Thank you for your help!
And thanks again Strollo22
And thanks again Strollo22
"Damage caused to the gill tissue of an infected fish can also reduce respiratory efficiency. This means it is more difficult for the fish to obtain oxygen from the water, and becomes less tolerant to low levels of dissolved oxygen."
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius_multifiliis
Even if your oxygen levels are high, the damaged gill tissue can reducue respiratory efficiency. Not much you can do here, but keep good water parameters and wait for the gill tissue to heal.
Hope your little fellas get better soon.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius_multifiliis
Even if your oxygen levels are high, the damaged gill tissue can reducue respiratory efficiency. Not much you can do here, but keep good water parameters and wait for the gill tissue to heal.
Hope your little fellas get better soon.
Ahh good information! Sorry to keep pestering you with questions, but should I still raise the temperature if his gills are damaged? Heat will reduce the oxygen in the tank for him. Im thinking either ich damaged them or a bigger fish because i used to have a 3 inch blue acara that would bolt at him along with the kribensis bullying him. Thats why i got rid of them. I noticed his pectoral fins look shredded up, so thats why Im mentioning that being a possibility as well.
How long did you keep the temps at 86F+ after the last signs of Ich disappeared? If it was less than 2 or 3 days, I would raise temps again and keep them there for 5 to 7 days to ensure the Ich is all gone.
I think it's a matter of addressing the more critical issue and in my opinion, ensuring Ich has been iradicated should be the priority.
I think it's a matter of addressing the more critical issue and in my opinion, ensuring Ich has been iradicated should be the priority.
I kept it there for 10 days straight. Just now I was feeding them and I noticed my EBJD has white stringy poop...now Im worried of a possible parasite. I feed them frozen bloodworms and I'm thinking maybe I should have never started them on that....