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Biofiltration for (cheap) dummies...

jjohnwm

Sausage Finger Spam Slayer
MFK Member
Bioballs...bah! Back around 30 or so years ago, they were what the Cool Kids used. A store I frequented in Toronto...the original PJ's Pets at Yonge and Steeles...had a glass-walled filter room containing the central filter for all their tanks, the main feature of which was a giant transparent cylinder full of Bioballs and set up as a trickle filter. I always got a chuckle from the gearhead-aquarists who went in there to look at the filter rather than the fish. :)

I guess at some point in the ensuing years, Bioballs became old-hat and boring. The new successor to the throne was K1, but only if you had it in one of those swirling, tumbling, mesmerizing fluid-media filters. I actually have some of that stuff, acquired essentially for free from a retiring hobbyist a number of years ago. My granddaughters loved watching its hypnotic dance when they were younger...the only reason I bothered with it...but even they are outgrowing it lately. Yeah, yeah, I know...it's scientifically designed to give the bacteria a substrate on which to live, but at the same time it beats them senseless so that the weakest among them just give up, die and slough off. Only the strongest, most athletic and fittest bacteria can hang onto it. It's The Most Efficient biomedium because every individual bacterium on it is a superstar.

Guess what? When you have all the room that most sumps provide...you don't need ultra-super-duper efficiency. Sure, you can probably get away with a tiny, tiny amount of the stuff to provide enough surface area for enough bacteria to keep your tank heathy. Who does that? Everybody uses a ton of biomedia, way more than they "need". The majority of users of K1 buy and use the stuff because it's cool. If you doubt that, well...when is the last time you saw a home aquarium using K1 as a medium in an opaque container? Likely never. Gotta watch it wiggle and gyrate, don't ya know...

Here's my favourite biological medium:
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Those charming little plastic gizmos are plastic shot wads, which are designed, manufactured and sold for use in home reloading setups to load your own shotgun ammunition. They are hollow little cylinders, closed off at one end and with a springy base to cushion the nice round shot and keep it nice and round when the gun goes off. And...they have a lot of surface area and grow bacteria just as well as the high-zoot techie stuff! A gallon of these things weighs a couple of ounces and costs 2 or 3 bucks. A mesh bag of them can be picked up with two fingers, quickly rinsed and shaken under running water if you feel you must "clean" your biomedia...which is almost never necessary if you have decent mechanical filtration...and returned to service within minutes. They work as submerged biomedia in your sump but they work amazingly well if you are old enough to still consider the use of an archaic wet-dry "trickle" filter, which is the way I use them. They aren't merely the Poor Man's Biomedium...they're more like the Homeless Vagrant's Biomedium, because they are crazy cheap, they last forever, they weight practically nothing and they work.

I still use and admire Poret foam for DIY sponge filters or pads, but these little wads put that stuff to shame in terms of cost-effectiveness as a pure biomedium. They aren't really comparable because Poret is also a wonderful mechanical medium whereas the wads require the use of a separate mechanical medium to prefilter the water passing over them.

When I moved to Manitoba from Ontario more than ten years ago, I brought several biologically-active Poret sponge filters with me, sealed in plastic buckets that weighed many pounds each. I also brought a couple of Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic garbage cans full of biologically-mature shotgun wads; they were so light that it was difficult to tell whether or not the cans were empty without looking inside of them. Try that with lava rock or ceramic rings or...well, with almost anything.

Of course, the proof is in the pudding; no way to say for sure if an idea works until it's tested long-term. I've been using shotgun wads for at least 35 years in my filters with complete satisfaction and no problems. The only problem: they're not cool. I can live with that. :)
 
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My plan is bulletproof! :)
 
Even before I became a microbiologist I realized bacteria have never gave two sh'tz what type surface they live on,
the idea of spending lots of money on the newest and fanciest bio-gizmo seemed a bit ridiculous to me.
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I started using chunks of lava rock back in the 80s, and have never found it any better or any worse as filter media, neither bio-rings or what ever alphabetical acronym a company come up with, are any better than a collection of old toothbrushes crammed into a filter.
The only proof is if ammonia and nitrite are zero once a tank is cycled, nothing else is pertinent.

Every time I see a post asking if this stuff is better at filtration, than that stuff, I crack up.
As long as a filter has some stuff in it, thats all that counts (any stuff).
John's Shot gun wads are as good as the most expensive and fanciest any stuff a filter company invents,
because bacteria could care less,.... a set of old hair curlers are as inviting as anything else
I use a Porrett foam wall in my sump, not because it bio-filters any better or worse, but because it mechanically filters (and biofilters) better than a solid divider baffle wall that serves no purpose at all other than to separate sections
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I've tried them all, measured and compared ammonia and nitrites on all, in the lab, and my lava rock, was no better or worse than rings, of toothbrush ends.
 
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I've never bought any "bio media" outside of what came with the filters I've bought...

In my experience, if you let almost any set up mature, you'll get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and #nitrate. I've never once had a set up that lacked enough "surface area" for any stock of fish.

Sure it's possible if you are consciously playing with the extremes. A bare bottom tank with no decor used to grow out young fish that are fed heavily 3 times per day. Sure that tank might need biomedia.

But if you have a 55 gallon, with sand or gravel, some kind of rock structure and a any chunk of wood with a random cheap filter (without bio media)... stocked with more fish than you should... and you feed them more than they'll eat... As long as you don't kill the bacteria yourself, you'll get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and # nitrite. The exception to this might be, right after you eat you may see a slight ammonia spike due to over feeding. And with biomedia you'll also see that spike. It would just get rid of it in 12 minutes instead of 20 minutes.

My most heavily stocked tank is a 75 gallon with 2x AC 110/500. Each filter has 2 AC (20ppi) sponges with some polishing filter media between them. No bio media anywhere to be found.
Heck, my lightly stocked 150 gallon Rubbermaid is "filtered" by a single powerhead to create water movement. Not even a sponge in that one (*for transparency, it's also heavily planted).

In my opinion... Buying bio media is like running an oxygen tank in your house. Yes it will technically add more oxygen which can in some weird theoretical way possibly improve breathing... but you're absolutely fine without it. And practically speaking, it doesn't make a difference.
 
I've never bought any "bio media" outside of what came with the filters I've bought...

In my experience, if you let almost any set up mature, you'll get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and #nitrate. I've never once had a set up that lacked enough "surface area" for any stock of fish.

Sure it's possible if you are consciously playing with the extremes. A bare bottom tank with no decor used to grow out young fish that are fed heavily 3 times per day. Sure that tank might need biomedia.

But if you have a 55 gallon, with sand or gravel, some kind of rock structure and a any chunk of wood with a random cheap filter (without bio media)... stocked with more fish than you should... and you feed them more than they'll eat... As long as you don't kill the bacteria yourself, you'll get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and # nitrite. The exception to this might be, right after you eat you may see a slight ammonia spike due to over feeding. And with biomedia you'll also see that spike. It would just get rid of it in 12 minutes instead of 20 minutes.

My most heavily stocked tank is a 75 gallon with 2x AC 110/500. Each filter has 2 AC (20ppi) sponges with some polishing filter media between them. No bio media anywhere to be found.
Heck, my lightly stocked 150 gallon Rubbermaid is "filtered" by a single powerhead to create water movement. Not even a sponge in that one (*for transparency, it's also heavily planted).

In my opinion... Buying bio media is like running an oxygen tank in your house. Yes it will technically add more oxygen which can in some weird theoretical way possibly improve breathing... but you're absolutely fine without it. And practically speaking, it doesn't make a difference.

I agree with most of the above, but...I still want some biomedia because I like the idea of a portable bacterial colony. If I want to start up a new tank, for quarantine or maybe to isolate some fish acting like a butthead or maybe some new fry, I love the ability to pick up a sponge or bag of shotshell wads or whatever, drop it into a new tank and essentially have a fully cycled new aquarium instantly. Moving some biomedia like this results in a new tank with an excellent infusion of bacteria, and leaves the old tank with a considerable percentage of its original colony. Both will quickly, likely within a day, be right up to full capacity.

I was expecting that I would offend the Boutique BioMedia crowd by suggesting that I could use a medium that costs less than an equivalent volume of depleted uranium and still performs as well as their trendy stuff. But, man...you are definitely going to be getting some hate mail about your suggestion...:)

I gotta admit that I am a bit confused about how my tank will experience an ammonia spike after I eat...:)
 
I find I get the most surface area out of a giant pyramid of rolled up $100 bills set in there parallel with the water flow to get the most circulation through it.
 
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