Cyanoguttatus vs Carpintis

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Which is done to lower operational costs, not because commercial farm feed is superior in nutritional value.


What size tank is this community going to be living in?

That is not completely accurate, it is done in part to lower operational costs, but also because the perceived difference in nutritional value doesn't justify the increased costs. Anyone who wants to be pay the higher cost per unit for cichlid branded food is free to do so, I just feel context is important. Notice I said in part, because Conkel honestly believes that a more fitting food would be 15-20% fiber, no such foods are commercially available, as such he feels that foods many of the foods which are designed to feed cichlids are poorly designed. It is important to understand the part that marketing plays in the fish food industry, many of the foods manufactured together from the same base components in large factories which use economies of scale, the differences seem to be on the margins.
 
So, I have always bought basic pellets as a staple diet, I then use the money saved to purchase supplemental foods like earthworms, krill, shrimp etc. I feel it is those foods which make the real difference.
 
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So, I have always bought basic pellets as a staple diet, I then use the money saved to purchase supplemental foods like earthworms, krill, shrimp etc. I feel it is those foods which make the real difference.

I’d focus on a more veggie based diet for herichthys. Most species are primarily herbivorous. I tend to stick w/ pellets like NLS. My h. Deppi definitely enjoys the algae growth in the tank. He spends most of his time picking at it.
 
There's enough info out there to make an informed descision on food so that really doesnt matter within this particular thread. You better have your act together to have a discussion with RD on nutrition of pellets or he'll make you look like a fool.
 
There's enough info out there to make an informed descision on food so that really doesnt matter within this particular thread. You better have your act together to have a discussion with RD on nutrition of pellets or he'll make you look like a fool.
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I only bought up the topic because the OP mentioned it in an earlier post, it’s pecuilar that you would say that it doesn’t matter in this post when the OP specifically asked a question about the diet of his fish.
 
In nature about 50% (maybe more) of the diet of carpintus is detritus, algae and other plant material, so I always fed mine a mix of pellets high in veggie matter, varying a high Spiralina content pellet with commercial catfish or panfish chow, and they did well, spawning regularly.
 
Longear, Pumpkinseed, and Warmouth. So 180 then?
Those fish plus a Carpintis would fill a 180 up. I’ve never kept Warmouth, so I have no real insight into their attitude, I know they can get really thick though.
 
If it was me, I'd shoot for the 180, vs a 125. I have kept both sunfish (longears) and H. carpinitis, but not both in a 125. I would expect aggression issues as the fish sexually mature.

GTS - I got your point, I just totally disagree with you. In commercial operations feed costs are a major part of the overhead. It's ridiculous to think that catfish farm feed is on the same level of some of todays foods marketed for the pet industry. And Conkel's opinion is just that, an opinion. Fiber is a non nutrient, and in an aquarium setting the more fiber that you add to the diet, the more waste is created from that non nutrient filler. From a recent post of mine in another discussion.

I've always been of the belief that feeding fish is part art, and part science. The art portion comes with time, and experience. Some learn early on with regards to correct methods, types, and amounts to feed, others never do.

I have always found the science part quite fascinating, and while I agree that one should always start with comparing what's in our glass tanks with what takes place in the wild, we have learned through science that many species, especially among the cichlid group, are very adaptive, with very plastic gastrointestinal systems. So plastic that some cichlids not only adapt (such as drastically shortened intestines) in captivity, but also do so in the wild during seasonal weather changes. Most cichlids lead a life of feast or famine dictated by the rainy/dry season. So while a diet of 25% fiber may be typical in the wild, at least during certain times of the year, in captivity 5-10% may be more than adequate. In fact, I have bred and raised numerous species of fish classified as strict herbivores, on a diet that was 5% crude fiber - and never once experienced dietary issues among the fish. Those fish still consumed shells/chitin as part of their diet, but with a more nutrient dense diet I could feed less overall, and less often, compared to their diet in the wild.

So other than with small fry or very small juveniles, my focus has never been on the frequency of feeding, but more so on the quality of the food, and the quantity being fed.
 
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