Dave's multi-floor South American adventure

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
OK, so unlike this 300 gallon project that never materialized, I'm gearing up to finally upgrade.



Unlike last time, I own my house now. And unlike the last tank, this one's acrylic. So instead of it weighing 800lbs empty and causing all kinds of problems then never getting set up because I spent all my time at my girlfriend's, I have a tank I was able to drag into our house 100% by myself, using only a dolly to descend the stairs. Also, we're married now. So she can't break up with me, even when she comes home to find the 2nd tank I've brought home in the past week. :)

The other big part of this is that I have a stand frame to put it on, so there's no prerequisite to filling it... other than putting the carpet back down (Tuesday).

Anyway, I picked up a 220 today. It's 86.6" x 24 x 24, bought from Dom, an MFKer in WI. And boy am I glad that despite all the planning and shopping that I did for 8 foot tanks, I got a ~7 footer. An 8 would be butting up against the door in the room. 7 is perfect. I'd prefer taller, I guess, but it's the footprint that's most important. 30" wouldn't fit the room or even through the door either.



Here's where my inexperience and the flaws in our educational system come up. For all that I accomplished up through and including college, I was never once required to take physics or learn anything about water. It's a simple concept (gravity!) but I am completely retarded when it comes to this stuff. I overthink it and have fears that are unfounded and probably hilarious to those of you who know what you're doing. I have never successfully set up a sump, and I have about a billion questions that I hope someone will be kind enough to answer. Think of it like holding a kindergarten kid's hand... (on the plus side, I do learn quickly).

Actually, a "plumbing for idiots" website would be super useful. Anyone know of a good one?

Here is some relevant information:

1) This tank is on the basement level, which means that it is about 4 feet below grade. I can't run a hose out a window or under a door to drain anything.

2) The room is also serving as a home theater, so I will not be using a sump. (though I will still have dumb questions about about those too since I have a tank upstairs that will use one.) I have two FX5s and an Eheim 2260 (among other canisters) that I plan to use to keep things nice and quiet.

3) I would still like to have some sort of water change automation even though I don't know how I'm going to drain it.

4) If possible, I would like to share the RO unit that the upstairs tank will be using

5) The tank has two holes drilled in the bottom of it. Visible here, I think. One is in the back right corner, the other about 1/3 from the left side and in the front third (random spot).



Now, because I'm not using a sump and have no overflows, I know some heaters/pipes/etc will need to be visible in the tank, but I want to keep that to a minimum. The stealthier the better, especially with 3 filters and returns.

Here's where my plumbing stupidity comes into play: I would very much like to copy this FX5 plumbing scheme (x3) but I can't shake this linger fear that a power failure or pump failure would end up flooding the entire house (which I nearly experienced a month ago, which is why the carpet needs to be replaced tuesday. Yes, that's the tack board visible in the photos. Yes, I poured about 50 gallons of water directly onto my floor via two pythons because I went outside and forgot about them. Yes, I already told you I'm an idiot.). While I'm perfectly well aware of the facts that an intake drilled in the side of the wall is no different from the submerged intake of my current FX5 and that water finds a level, I can't shake the feeling that the pressure of 220 gallons of water pressing down on that little hole in the bottom would create a giant geyser and eventually force its way out of the canister filters. (Again: stupid.)

Can somebody reassure me that there's no way that can happen? That I can use those bottom holes as intakes, and even returns, if I want, without running the risk of blowing out the filter and flooding my house?

Anyway... assuming that's all not that big a deal, I'm still thinking I'll patch those ones up, if only because this tank will have eartheaters and the intakes would be likely to inhale giant amounts of sand and clog the filters in a day or two.

So without getting into optimal placement of intakes/returns just yet, I'm wondering what my best option is for plumbing up three filters underneath and also potentially having a nice easy way to drain the tank using one or two of those pumps.

Fancy diagram 1 below shows one simple way to just use each filter with one in and one out, all drilled. D2 is me wondering if there's a way I can put in a valve of sorts that can redirect my FX5 returns to a drain pipe (which leads to.... TBA.)... and whether that drain pipe can be shared by BOTH FX5s. I guess in that case I don't care if it makes splashing noises inside a wider diameter pipe. There'll be noise during a WC anyway. D3 is me wondering if there's some way I could combine the returns of the two FX5s, though I'm not sure why I'd want that. And it seems like a bad idea. Unless there was some way to have some sort of reservoir in between the two, which also held the heaters... but then I'd assume that'd screw up the pumps.








It'd be nice to have a UV sterilizer built in somewhere too. Perhaps on the Eheim return or something.

OK, that's enough for now. I have a feeling my threads never get responses because people open them and see ten pages of typing and roll their eyes at me.

But I would LOVE to get some input from the pros on here about the best way to hook this all up. And whether I can still somehow incorporate a drip and drain system without a sump and gravity on my side. And all that fun stuff.

Meanwhile, I'm going to see about getting this thing buffed, try to plan for holes and PVC and bulkheads, and eventually skin the 2x4 stand with cherry ply and some doors and trim and build a super tall canopy above it that also doubles as a shelf for my projector. And I will document my [mis]adventures through photos the whole way.

(Thanks for reading this far.)

DSCN2715.JPG

DSCN2716.JPG

DSCN2717.JPG

plumbing1.gif

plumbing2.gif

plumbing3.gif
 

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
Here is a floor plan of the house to give an idea of where my tanks are, as well as a picture of them overlapped for reference about how far apart they are. The 4x2 120 and the 7x2 220 are actually very close to each other... about 14 feet apart. And the utility room where the building's waste and grey plumbing lines is only 12 feet from there...

If it matters, the main water line for the entire building (3 units) is accessible in the closet under the stairs. That's where I keep the beer cellar and meat freezer. I don't really see that giant pipe being of any value to this project though.

Between floors there are open web trusses, 19" on center, built like rocks from 2x4s. Often doubled up. I feel like I could park a car on the floor upstairs. I've got my main access to that space directly below the 120 in the great room in the 3rd bedroom closet, and there's a vent there that allows me to run stuff from the 120 down through the hardwood floors without drilling anything, provided I sculpt the duct inside. The same is true of the 125 in the front room, though it's pretty far away.

There is about 14" free space between the floors. I've run wire throughout the house and am getting good at it, but it's a tight fit. Running pipes, especially if they're not flexible, will be a real challenge.

Ideally I would like to have all three tanks set up on some kind of automatic system. The front tank is a real pipe dream, though, and it's also not going to be softened water, so I'd settle for just having an easy way to drain that quickly, even if I have to run a flexi tube out the front door.

The hope is that I can use the utility room as a source of fresh water and as the sink to drain into. Draining the 220, though, will be tough, since I'd have to go up and over a door.

house-layout.gif

house-overlap.gif
 

Pharaoh

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
MFK Member
Feb 18, 2008
17,567
177
1,097
Indianapolis
Go with canister setup #1. I will have to reread the rest tomorrow. LOL
 

PostalPenguin

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jun 30, 2010
400
0
0
Denver CO
Does your basement have a sump pump? If so just drain it into that. Or setup a basin of some sort, put a sump pump in that and pump it up and out into the yard.

About the water pressure: while I cant back it up with formulas, the canisters are designed to handle the pressure. The water pressure on a canister is the same whether using the over the rim intake/out-take or pre-drilled bottom intakes. So you will be fine.
 

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
Pharaoh;4453494; said:
Go with canister setup #1. I will have to reread the rest tomorrow. LOL
Heh. You're quick on the draw! (I was PMing you while you responded!)

PostalPenguin;4453505; said:
Does your basement have a sump pump? If so just drain it into that. Or setup a basin of some sort, put a sump pump in that and pump it up and out into the yard.
There's a pump somewhere. Any time we shower or use the utility sink or washer I can hear it pump stuff up and out. What I don't know, though, is how to access it. I assume there's a closed off tub in there (otherwise I'd smell poop and whatnot) too, so I don't know how to safely tap into it, or if that's even allowed.

The layout of the room prevents me from having any kind of huge basin or reservoir though, which complicates things. The water heater is stupidly placed and there's an extra boiler/furnace for the downstairs's radiant heat (which is a huge part of why we bought the house, fwiw). I'll go get a pic in a minute.

We don't have a yard, unless you count an 8x10 brick patio. Though next summer I do want to get that landscaped and have drip irrigation for it. And if I could tie that into tank waste, that would be AWESOME. But again, that's several feet higher up than the utility room floor and sump/drains, wherever they are. I believe it is 64" from our concrete foundation to the ground level outside the windows. (See photo)

About the water pressure: while I cant back it up with formulas, the canisters are designed to handle the pressure. The water pressure on a canister is the same whether using the over the rim intake/out-take or pre-drilled bottom intakes. So you will be fine.
Yeah, I figured as much.

Does it change anything at all if I was to use one or both of those bottom holes for the return? That might let me do sort of the equivalent of a UGJ system to make sure there aren't any areas where waste settles (like I currently have in my 125, no matter what I seem to do).

DSCN2399.JPG
 

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
OK, here are a few pics of the crowded corner of the utility room (we also use it for cat litter for our stupid furniture-killing cats).

I honestly have no idea what's going on in there, and I need a wider lens to capture it in full. Basically there are two pipes into the big hole with black rubber over it and the fat one that comes up from the grey hole and is what I can hear water trickling from when we shower or when upstairs units do stuff. The third pic shows the right-most pipe, which goes into the black hole, but comes from right in the middle of the wall. The fattest pipe has a big jumble up top, I can't even make a guess about what that stuff might do.

I assume I'll end up tearing that drywall all off at some point. If not for plumbing research and work, to stuff insulation around it so that I can't hear water moving in the "theater" in the next room over.

DSCN2719.JPG

DSCN2722.JPG

DSCN2723.JPG
 

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
What would be super cool would be sharing filtration for the 120 upstairs and 220 downstairs. They'd both get RO and both are quite close to each other horizontally... but there's no way to pull that off that I know of, since they're on different floors. A power outage would end up draining the 120 into the 220 or something. Plus there's nowhere to put a filter of any usable size because of the utility room layout.

But it's fun to think about, anyway.

The best I can do in there, from what I can tell, is 2x20 long (or 29h) on an iron stand in the location of that tank in the first util photo, a 30l on a shelf I'm building to the left of the water heater (which half overlaps the countertop and slides underneath the cabinet), and if I'm lucky, maybe a 10g above that. And even then, the shelf with the two 20s would need to be moved to access the furnace or boiler for service. It's unusual to even get a utility room in Chicago architecture, and the square footage is good, but the layout is tight and not that valuable.
 

DaveB

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Feb 22, 2008
1,244
14
68
Miami
So I was clicking around and looking at things for inspiration when I stumbled across ADG's Facebook page. And the guy who does their stand builds did a very detailed writeup about it all. Tons of great ideas in the photo album, starting with this one. Shelving, soundproofing, vents, pneumatic canopy arms; I'll probably copy ALL those ideas.

Then I clicked around some more and found that not only did they also do a tank with two holes in the bottom, but it was also using the exact same 2260 I just got with this one. (click next several times to see the progress on that one, pretty cool.)

So now I'm wondering if I can fashion some sort of slightly elevated intake mid-tank and disguise it inside a piece of wood or something. Hmmm.

I am getting the bug again... time to finally get good at sketchup so I can model some stands in my rooms.

I want to be like the Senskes when I grow up :)
 

Pharaoh

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
MFK Member
Feb 18, 2008
17,567
177
1,097
Indianapolis
OK, let me see if I can remember everything.

1. As said before, your canisters will be fine. Just make sure you get everything sealed tight and you shouldn't have any problems plumbing them to the back of the tank.

2. I wouldn't count of the FX5's to power any type of UGJ system. IMO, tehy have power, but not that much. You could always split them and use the loc-line stuff to direct the flow in a couple directions.

3. Looking at your pics, you sump pit is exactly what you need to get rid of any water you have. The one on the right is the sewage(toilet) pit and the one on the left is your groundwater pit. Either would work, but I recommend using the groundwater side. I don't think you want to open that seal can of smell. lol
You could run your drain lines (overflows) to the pit and it will remove the water. This is how I run my drip systems in my basement. You would just have to run the plumbing for each of the tanks.

4. I would stick with separate filters. It's a great idea to combine them, but sometime the plumbing, water heights and energy efficiency can prove troublesome.

5. Drip irrigation in the yard would require a holding tank and a way to get the water to the yard. Off the top of my head, you could bury a holding tank in the yard and have the groundwater pump go to it. Then, just hook up a submersible pump to your sprinkler system.

Hopefully I got it all.
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store