lousybreed;3916143; said:
Oh man, I was hoping that someone would say that it works!!!!
I am wondering if I rough up the wood if it would stick better?
Want to say the oldest plywood and Drylok tank I have heard of is still running at four years. The good news about Drylok compared to some of the other inexpensive sealers is that it's very repairable so even after four years you can recoat it.
Also, you can always go over it later with any of the popular sealers if it develops a leak.
Neither repairability or resealing with a different product may seem like a big deal but it's not the case with all other sealers.
So if I had to choose I woud go with Drylok over Ames Blue Max simply because the Drylok is repairable with itself and/or because I could always topcoat it with another product.
But honestly I'd rather you you use something like Epoxy, Epoxy Paint or Liquid Rubber from the start.
Speaking of epoxy specifically, US Composites carries an inexpensive laminating resin that's $65 for a 1.5 gallon kit, or $43.33 per gallon. You can get vinyl ester resin for around the same price or cheaper if you buy in bulk.
Drylok is only 50% solids by volume while epoxy resin is 100% solids so really Drylok and the US Composites epoxy end up costing the same when it comes to the layer of solids left on the interior of your plywood tank. And that's really what matters. Granted you only paid $15 for your gallon but it's normally around $22, IIRC.
Even better, epoxy "technically" waterproofs at a thinner mil thickness than Drylok so you could make the argument it's cheaper. But in reality you'll probably end up applying both fairly thick so that's a mute point. If you were comparing epoxy to a product designed to go on thick then maybe it would be important.
I hope this helps.
