Very nice pair ! What are the water parameters and conditions of the tank? Because I've never been able to hold ...
I treat them with less kid gloves than most but extremely varied foods is essential to aid in developing a strong immune system (or don't try this at home).
Water at Ph 6.8 - 7.0... driftwood and/or plants causes slow drift more acidic and softening effect as minerals are absorbed.... no buffers ever utilized. Hardness quite soft actually, 50 - 80 ppm. About the same time I need to add water for evaporate replacement (tank 10% low), I might remove 5% total tank volume... this depending on the look of the plants mainly... (they are my barometer, so to speak). The fish always look healthy... its the plants that will really tell you if something is missing in the water. New water straight from the tap, treated with Prime at half strength unless young fry present (then normal strength).
The minimal and temporary (hour or two at most) levels of chlorine has a topical effect on all bacteria but healthy bacteria levels are so prevalent that they rebound quickly. May seem counterproductive at first, but the slight die off becomes primary food source for protozoans and other microbes. These are the primary food source for my young fry. I provide only supplimental feedings as little as once per day most of the time. This next hatch she is sitting on may require 3 per day to augment their continuous grazing due to the number involved if even 90% hatch as I intend to find out as much as possible on these color morphs ratios and otherwise. Some (very few) are even mostly a light powder gold overall with very light metallic green spangles).
Replenishment water is always about 10 degrees cooler than tank water and neutral to 7.2, regardless of tank Ph which hardly ever drops to 6.4.
Far as I'm concerned, this simulates inflow to their waters much like a heavy downpour would, and helps stimulate the immune system also, besides being a great precurser to spawning as the temp returns to normal. There is also about a 6 degree swing in temperature between day and night accomplished with no tank heaters, but rather room ac on a timer and currently at 61 and runs all night but off during the day. Tanks drop from 85 - 87F depending on how hot the day was, down to 76 - 78 pending how cool the night is. Heaters used to maintain 85F once eggs are laid, and also utilized in late autumn to mid spring but only to keep above 73. I'm not worried about fluctuations above that (unless eggs to hatch).
Fungicide Pimafix as prophylaxis once every 2 wks for 2 days at normal strength unless breeding eminent, then withold til 1 hour after spawning, then dose daily at half strength til hatched. Unfertilized eggs or unviable eggs take about 5 days to fungus over when doing so, but should hatch in < 3 if things go right.
and of course water changes after meds... even with the fry present... just more and lesser amounts. Heaters are turned off after fry hatch... Cooler water at night suppresses their appetites and allows the food they've already eaten to be digested more slowly so they need not be fed at night (I sleep well), and the steadily rising temperature throughout the day stimulates their appetite and causes them to be most active foraging just before "bedtime". They don't seem to mind, and neither do I.