First Setup plan

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
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Boon, MI
Well, I like the clean look. I have no room for anything to go behind the tank. Anything over the side will be ugly as the tank is the centerpiece when the tv projector is not on.
And Chompers seems to be having great luck with his. I think the main idea has nothing to do with filtration, it is more of a cleaning system, the flow is keeping the substrate clean, the sump is where all the good stuff happens.

So yes, I think I am set on RUGF.

AS for epoxy I am not sure. I like the concrete look. And I have no fish waiting, so I have time. Worried epoxy will change the shape of what i want.I was also thinking that with cement I could adjust it better to get the surface right. Epoxy has little mold ability unless you use fiber. Also cost, my background will be 6 feet long. That might take a lotof resin. And I dont like useing it. Same as doing automotive body work, not my thing.

But I am looking at all options, thank you for your ideas. They are always welcome.

Heck it might take me a month to get the tank on the stand. I am very particular, OCD I like everything symetrical. And i want the plumbing to be multi functional
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
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57
Boon, MI
Here are phase 1 pics. I do not have it leveled and anchored yet. Cut for outlets and baseboard. Got it ready to level and secure next friday. Kinda sucks right now, working full time national Guard, so at most i get fri-sun to work. Can't order the tank, because i did not have time to figure out where the water lines need to be to miss the floor joists.

Question. on a 1 1/2" bulkhead, how big around is the outer most part of bulkhead? I can start making some calculations.

Cabinet is 74" long, 20 inches tall 20" deep. I have 23" from cabinet top to bottom of TV viewing area. A 100long from glasscages is 72x18x17 leaving 6" for a custom hood and lighting

Photo0153.jpg

Photo0151.jpg
 

shelbyzman

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 12, 2009
634
1
0
USA
can't wait to see the finished project! The cabinet/stand looks very nice
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
46
57
Boon, MI
1 1/2 bulkhead size anyone?

Also, do you think airstones at the base of the overflows will cause any problems?

Hope to do 2 things, draw waste in the bottom of tree and then up to overflow, and also discourage fish from staying inside the hollow trees.
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
46
57
Boon, MI
well lack of progress looking at things. I did a bunch of measuring and figuring. I think I've come up with my bulkhead locations. Still not sure about the bulkhead dimensions i used. But here is what i come up with this weekend.

The masking tape is 3/4" and represents the tank frame, and where it will set on the cabinet 72" x 18".

The blue tape is where the floor joists are under the cabinet. I want the pipes running along either side, so I can secure them, and put the insulation back with little fuss.

If anyone sees any problems, let me know before I start drillin, which I wont due until i actually have the tank at the house. Hopefully glasscages can make sense of these pics and my dimensions.

On the last pic, i didnt have all 4 bulkhead markers in place, I only made 2 and moved them from side to side to make the pics, so just imagine 4 bulkheads, 2 on left and 2 on right. Closeups show where they will be.

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Photo0010.jpg
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
46
57
Boon, MI
72 x 18 x 17 tall glass aquarium $ 292.00

Starphire front $ 92.00

4 - 2 3/4 holes $ 100.00

4 sch 80 bulkheads $ 60.00

1/2 " bottom $ 50.00
-------------
Total $ 594.00

I included the items I thought you wanted - you can go over the list.

Bottom is thickened due to the close holes you want drilled.

Black trim around bottom of tank is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 .



also found this for $100

Oceanic Systems 75 wet/dry trickle filter for salt water/reef tanks. This system includes the wet/dry tank, an Eheim 1060 pump, all hoses and fittings, and approx. 5 gal "bio-balls."


figure i could use the pump for sure, if filter is not big enough maybe i can use it with my 10g to make a sump that will work.

I am also thinking of making a coil denitrifier, just because it looks like an easy diy, and i can run it with the third trickle overflow.
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
46
57
Boon, MI
I bought some stuff for my sump. I know its not as big as ppl have suggested. It is 24x12x18. I I going to modify the design to have more mech filtration and more media. I also got 5 gal of small gray bio balls, so i will use srubbies on the bottom and bio balls on top.

sump.jpg

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3k03p23le5Ob5Q95R998964b29e6156491a9e.jpg
 

LowCel

Piranha
MFK Member
Oct 10, 2006
2,309
34
81
Charleston, WV
This may be a dumb question but considering it gets pretty cold in Kentucky how are you going to keep the sump area heated? For this system I would seriously consider just going with a couple of nice canisters. I'm a sump fan but for your application I think it would be much simpler and more reliable.

With that said, I am still going to be following this because I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Now the important part, what projector are you using? I have a Sharp DT510 and I absolutely love it. I've got it projecting on a 106" pull down screen (with a 55" LCD behind it). I love movie night! :D Of course the Onkyo/Klipsh/SVS surround system really helps. :D
 

LowCel

Piranha
MFK Member
Oct 10, 2006
2,309
34
81
Charleston, WV
You might want to do a search on the 1060, I don't believe it is going to be able to do the job with your required head height. You may already know that but I wanted to point it out.
 

Redoog

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2009
313
1
46
57
Boon, MI
I live in south central KY. We have some cold spells, but i also plane on insulating the entire sump area. If needed I have a heating duct on either side of the sump area, so I can heat it.

I use a mit 1500. Onkyo 7.1.

Specs on the box, i posted asking about this, but it says "max. 381/min or max. 3,1 m/w.c." online i cant find much
 
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