How would you filter a 10’x4’x30” ray tank that will be directly on the ground

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
If I understand correctly... The issue is, he is buying a manufactured aquarium. And beyond 120" the price increases are quite high.

If this were a DIY tank, extending the wooden box would be a nominal cost, probably less than whatever other filtration system is going to add.

The same option is still available with a manufactured aquarium, though it would be costly, less efficient and (imo) a pain in the rear to install. The space on each end is roughly 12"x48"@30" deep, the same as a 110 Gal Aquarium. slide one in each end slot, drill as necessary and plumb them in as filters. Instead of 110 Gal aquariums you could consider some other container of roughly similar dimensions. Since it doesn't need to be see through your options really open up. Some of the suggestions above are in the same ballpark as this.
Yes, this is for a manufactured aquarium, I don’t have the DIY skills to make anything myself unfortunately.

I’ll inquire to see what the extra cost is to lengthen the tank just to see, although I do expect it to be cost prohibitive.
 
Yes, this is for a manufactured aquarium, I don’t have the DIY skills to make anything myself unfortunately.

I’ll inquire to see what the extra cost is to lengthen the tank just to see, although I do expect it to be cost prohibitive.
Yes, the cost will go up significantly as acrylic sheets usually come in standard sizes. Wet/dry filters are great for biological filtration. However, there's not room for much mechanical filtration in a wet/dry filter for your 750 gallon tank, and you might find yourself constantly replacing what little filter floss you can get into wet/dry filter. A well designed sump filter would probably be better. However, if you have a drain close by, consider an Ultima II 1000 or 2,000. Ultimas provide both biological and mechanical filtration, and their backwash system make filter maintenance a breeze. You have enough room in your designated filtration area for an Ultima and pump.
 
Yes, the cost will go up significantly as acrylic sheets usually come in standard sizes. Wet/dry filters are great for biological filtration. However, there's not room for much mechanical filtration in a wet/dry filter for your 750 gallon tank, and you might find yourself constantly replacing what little filter floss you can get into wet/dry filter. A well designed sump filter would probably be better. However, if you have a drain close by, consider an Ultima II 1000 or 2,000. Ultimas provide both biological and mechanical filtration, and their backwash system make filter maintenance a breeze. You have enough room in your designated filtration area for an Ultima and pump.

This is an interesting idea. I don’t have a drain nearby, but I do have a window. Could a hose be attached to backwash output and ran up the hose and out the window? The landscaping would love that.
 
This is an interesting idea. I don’t have a drain nearby, but I do have a window. Could a hose be attached to backwash output and ran up the hose and out the window? The landscaping would love that.
Don't know why it wouldn't work. The water will be pumped out. If you go this route, consider a clear connector to monitor the water/debris being purged.
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I think I would need 2 Ultima ii 2000 models each with a reeflo snapper pump, do you agree?
Don't know that you need two...but then again....is it possible to have too much filtration? (Yeah, I can say this as I have two Ultima II 4,000s for biological filtration waiting to be set up on my 15'x4'x4' tank upgrade which has been on hold for many years).

IMO, good choice with a Reeflo pump. I've only used one Reeflo pump, but it has run continuously since 2006. The spare replacement pump is still in its box, and I have 5 different Reeflo pumps that have been waiting for years to be installed on the big tank system.

It's important to figure out your filtration before you order your tank. If you decide on sump filtration, you have the option of internal or external overflow boxes which can be done on the side of the tank. I have two 4' external overflow boxes on the back of my tank (to feed and return water to a 405 gallon sump for redundant filtration)

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The other thing you might consider doing is having the company place holes in the top of your tank when it is fabricated. Again, you need your filtration figured out before you do this. We drilled four holes on the top of our 300 gallon tank to accommodate the filtration we came up with. On our big tank system, I had the fabricator place eleven holes on the top of the tank to fit bulkheads for 1.5" PVC. Don't want to need a hole saw again.

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If you decide to go with Ultimas, the holes would be used for uptakes and returns. If you decide to go with Loc-Line return nozzles, they usually come in 1/2" - 3/4" diameters, so you would need smaller holes to accommodate smaller bulkheads. When it comes to return nozzles, consider a Venturi return nozzle. Venturi nozzles increase the flow rate. The one Venturi return nozzle on our 300 gallon tank spits out a lot of air, so that the tank is well aerated. There has been no need for any other aeration devices. Also they are 1.5" in diameter which matches the rest of our plumbing. I love that the direction of the flow can be changed by simply turning the inside nozzle.


1737134783787.png
 
Don't know that you need two...but then again....is it possible to have too much filtration? (Yeah, I can say this as I have two Ultima II 4,000s for biological filtration waiting to be set up on my 15'x4'x4' tank upgrade which has been on hold for many years).

IMO, good choice with a Reeflo pump. I've only used one Reeflo pump, but it has run continuously since 2006. The spare replacement pump is still in its box, and I have 5 different Reeflo pumps that have been waiting for years to be installed on the big tank system.

It's important to figure out your filtration before you order your tank. If you decide on sump filtration, you have the option of internal or external overflow boxes which can be done on the side of the tank. I have two 4' external overflow boxes on the back of my tank (to feed and return water to a 405 gallon sump for redundant filtration)

View attachment 1555826


The other thing you might consider doing is having the company place holes in the top of your tank when it is fabricated. Again, you need your filtration figured out before you do this. We drilled four holes on the top of our 300 gallon tank to accommodate the filtration we came up with. On our big tank system, I had the fabricator place eleven holes on the top of the tank to fit bulkheads for 1.5" PVC. Don't want to need a hole saw again.

View attachment 1555829

If you decide to go with Ultimas, the holes would be used for uptakes and returns. If you decide to go with Loc-Line return nozzles, they usually come in 1/2" - 3/4" diameters, so you would need smaller holes to accommodate smaller bulkheads. When it comes to return nozzles, consider a Venturi return nozzle. Venturi nozzles increase the flow rate. The one Venturi return nozzle on our 300 gallon tank spits out a lot of air, so that the tank is well aerated. There has been no need for any other aeration devices. Also they are 1.5" in diameter which matches the rest of our plumbing. I love that the direction of the flow can be changed by simply turning the inside nozzle.


View attachment 1555837
Very good insights thank you so much. The more I read about the ultimas the more I think this is the way to go. The only potential concern I have is how much water would be required for back flushing them?
 
Would rays be able to handle being on the floor with a large subwoofer in the room? This may be overly stressful for them. It probably would be worth looking into some sort of material to absorb some of those vibrations before they touch the tank, especially if you have something like a 18" Ultimax.
Its ironic that Dayton Ultimax 18s are mentioned in this thread, that's exactly what resides in my basement. What I can tell you is that my fish seemed to be significantly less bothered by lower tuning. I use my 18s as infra subs. Both enclosures are tuned stupid low (under 20hz). These seem to bother the fish MUCH less then typical full bandwidth subs, but can still piss them off at loud volumes. Obviously we all have different interpretations of "subs" and "loud". Guessing most people don't use 4 18s off 10K for their low end.
Just be smart about material sizes… you can have an 8’ window in whatever size length u want. You can do 16’ with the same lengths of wood ud cut down for 13’. 2 windows instead of 1 may be cheaper also. My first larger build was 9’x4’x29”… during the build i realised i could have made a larger tank with the same materials if i had used standard lenghts. I ended up cutting the window down to 8’ to atleast save a bit there.

As for filtration… doesnt matter much as long as u have an autodrip or auto change system. Rays needs autodrip imo… theres no way around it.

Very sound advice on the materials. Very good and valid points.

As far as the filtration I'd argue this statement all day long...... Rays DO NOT need drips. They need waterchanges...... Depending on source water (if its really hard/alk) you could be screwing yourself with a drip........

Filtration is easy - no different then a standard ray tank..... Sand filter feeds moving bed.
 
Its ironic that Dayton Ultimax 18s are mentioned in this thread, that's exactly what resides in my basement. What I can tell you is that my fish seemed to be significantly less bothered by lower tuning. I use my 18s as infra subs. Both enclosures are tuned stupid low (under 20hz). These seem to bother the fish MUCH less then typical full bandwidth subs, but can still piss them off at loud volumes. Obviously we all have different interpretations of "subs" and "loud". Guessing most people don't use 4 18s off 10K for their low end.
I have a single Ultimax underneath my couch. I cut a 18" manhole in the middle of my living room and the 7 cubic feet enclosure it resides in is mounted to the joists in the crawlspace. When you get hit by a grenade in games, you feel it.
 
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I have a single Ultimax underneath my couch. I cut a 18" manhole in the middle of my living room and the 7 cubic feet enclosure it resides in is mounted to the joists in the crawlspace. When you get hit by a grenade in games, you feel it.

Awesome! I have a buddy working on something similar now - strapping box to the rafters in the basement for his living room upstairs.

I can relate to the feeling it part. I've got about 36 cubic feet of box that my couch sits on top of - carpeted the same as the floor - the 4 18s fire right into the bottom of the couch. 2.6K watt amp on each sub. Now the couch sits at the perfect height for viewing the tanks.
 

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