I probably going to get one at the expo on the 11th. I have a few extra 10.0 uvb bulbs. Its not going to harm them right? Also what is the prefered basking temp?
Is 10.0 uvb ok for a blue tongue skink?
- Thread starter Stingray12
- Start date
I think that might be too strong. That size bulb is something you would use for a desert species like a Bearded Dragon or Uromastyx. I'd go with a 5.0 instead if I were you.
here is a big portion of the care sheet from BTS.net. Go to their website for the entire care sheet and more info on BTS than you will ever need. Best site for them period.
Lighting/Heating/Temperature
Blue tongued skinks require a wide ranged temperature gradient consisting of a hot side, a cool side, and a middle range in between. Regular daytime temperatures on the cool end can be anywhere from the low 70's to the low 80 degree range, and the basking end consistent at 95º to 100º. Some would say as high as 110º on the basking end, but I think that's too high. You want to maintain a little bit of 'wiggle room'. If the sun shines through a window, or your in-laws turn the heat up, it could definitely fluctuate the temperature in a room. 100º is ideal. If your temps are 110º+, the slightest rise in heat could raise the temperature dangerously high. Proper temperatures can be achieved and regulated with the use of a heat lamp. They usually cost $10-15 at your local pet shops (or cheaper at Home Depot), and I would highly suggest purchasing a size no smaller than a 10 inch diameter. This widens your heat range, and prevents the lamp from tipping. Any smaller than 10 inches, and the lamps can tip very easily (if you're heat lamp is clamped, you don't need to worry about this). You will also need a bright incandescent bulb for the lamp. They will probably be for sale right next to the heat lamps, and a 100 watt will probably be fine. If you have a taller enclosure, a 150 -200 watt bulb may be necessary to maintain your basking temperature. You may use virtually any sort of bulb as long as your temperatures are correct. Simply place your lamp on the top of your screen lid, turn it on, and you're ready! Leave it on for a few hours, and do a few test runs before putting in the animal. You want to be sure that it's not too hot, or too cold. If your animal is always on the cool end, or laying in its water dish, it's likely too hot. Watch those temps, and be prepared! Do not buy on an impulse. You want everything tested and ready BEFORE buying your animal. You don't want to bring your animal home, and then learn of mistakes or problems. Do what it takes to achieve the correct temperatures. Usually, a heat lamp is all you need to achieve your 100º basking area, but if not, you may need to supplement with a heat mat or a more powerful bulb. Hint: Buy your heat lamps (and bulbs such as spot/halogen/flood) at Home Depot, and save a ton of money! They're the exact same units in the pet store, except for the tripled price tag. Scroll down to the UV section for info on specific bulbs.
Important advice
Night time temperatures should drop no lower than 60º (temperatures dropping below 60 will not hurt your BTS, but may induce a brumation [essentially a hibernation] state that typically results in long sleeps and a complete loss of appetite). Just turn your heat lamp off at night, and back on in the morning. We suggest a 12 hour cycle such as 9am-9pm, or 10-10, 11-11, etc. This is called the photoperiod. If you work late, it might be a good idea to set your timers from 12-12. This way, the lights come on at noon, and you will have until midnight to play with and handle your pet. Remember, if you have some insanely cold house...for example air conditioning in the summer, you might want to consider a small under-the-tank heater. You can also use a ceramic heat emitter. They put off plenty of heat, but no actual light. See picture below. Ceramic heat emitters are pretty expensive costing anywhere from 30 to 50 U.S dollars, but are very effective. Keep in mind however that you don't want 90 degree night time temperatures; keep the entire tank in the 60-70's at night. I believe that BTS benefit from a nighttime "cool down" periodthe heat keeps their bodies active and their blood and organs pumping. A natural nightly cool down period rests their bodies and helps put them into a cool sleep. One thing that a lot of people don't realize is that BTS can take the cold60's-70's during the night will not hurt them at all. DO NOT use heat rocks. They can actually burn the belly of your skink. The reason we say no to heat rocks is that they're prone to malfunction, and it also puts an electrical hazard in your tank 24/7. Your animal will often be wet from soaking in his water...then imagine him running on top of the heat rock, or rubbing on the side of the hot and electrically powered rock device. Electricity and water are obviously not a good combinationI don't even understand how or why heat rocks were invented. You shouldn't have anything electrical in your terrarium; period. Some people still of course say they've used heat rocks successfully for years...blah, blah blah...but I will tell you this: It's an extreme danger, so why on earth risk it, when you don't even need it. And most people would have a change of heart of course once their animal was actually electrocuted and killed. Below is an under-the-tank heater or "heat mat", and a ceramic heat emitter.
Note: Heat mats are generally NOT needed and should only be used on hard surfaces and UNDER your tank (not inside). They can get insanely hot, and will very easily burn carpet. Also keep in mind that it IS possible that a heat mat could heat up the bottom of the glass to unsafe temperatures. Try it on low at first, and monitor it before leaving your BTS inside. Thermostats are recommended. DIGITAL TEMP GUNS are essential in these cases and we talk about them in the next section. Remember, never use any type of heat pad or heat rock inside your terraria. Human heating pads are acceptable when holding the bluey on your lap, the couch, etc.
Many people have asked me: "I have an under-tank-heater and a hot bedroom, so do I really need a heat lamp? Absolutely. The sole purpose of the heat lamp is to simulate the sun's direct rays shining down on your lizard's back. If your bluey is just sitting in a heated enclosure...well, just imagine the difference between sitting in a sauna and sitting outside in the sun. It's obviously a huge difference in the sense of basking. Plus, without the heat lamp it is near impossible to regulate the differing temperatures required for each end of the terrarium. Again, it is my opinion that without a basking light, they cannot bask. Imagine going into a sauna for a sun tan. It just doesn't work. I have also been asked: "Can I keep my tank next to the window during summer to save electricity?" NO!! Keeping a BTS in a hot room, or by a hot window is not efficient at all, and is extraordinarily dangerous. If your goal is to give them UV, they would need to have a UV light directly overhead or be taken outside for two reasons: (1) Most windows filter 95% of all UV and (2) Your actual cage glass will also filter any UV. If your goal is heat, keeping them by a window is especially dangerous because temperatures can fluctuate like crazy raising your temps to dangerous levels. Not to mention that the entire cage would heat up. They would have no variance in temperature, extreme heat everywhere, and no place to escape. Also, do not attempt to put your terraria "halfway" in the shade of your room. It doesn't work. Remember, your basking rock should be located directly UNDER the heat lamp, and the area should be kept at 95º-100º. The goal is to keep that smooth flat rock HOT so they can warm their bellies. Place your hand flat on the rock...if it burns your hand, and you have to pull away, it's too hot. But if you can withstand it and keep your hand there, it's just right. Also, it's important to get a temperature gauge so you can see how hot it is during the day, and at night. You can find both quality items, and cheap items, at any pet or hardware store, and many come with humidity gauges. Also, eBay is a good place to buy some of these productsyou can find a lot of unique things at great prices and have them shipped right to your doorstep!
Important: Visit www.tempgun.com or even a store like RadioShack, and purchase a tempgun. Simply point, click, and you've got the temperature of your terrarium. These are ideal because you can check your hot end, cool end, and middle range all in a matter of seconds. They are also far superior to any needle style gauge or sticky strip. Digital thermometers with probes also work well. In my opinion, a digital tempgun is the only tool that will 100% accurately measure your temperatures. The cheapest one is $25, and will work great. One neat feature is that you can "sweep" your terraria. Simply push the button, hold, and slowly move your hand from the hot end to the cold end and back again. Gauges simply stick to the side, and measure nothing but the ambient air in that exact location. Pretty useless.
Poor Average Best Humidity
Some say to keep the substrate moist to maintain an even humidity level, and that is an absolute falsity. Be very cautious as if your terrarium is damp in any way, bacteria can grow FAST, and your skink could develop skin problems such as scale rot. Don't ever dump water into the tank, or just drench the substrate. Generally, a large water bowl will provide all the humidity they need, so don't even worry about using a mister. Humidity can range from 25-50%, but I feel 50 is a bit too high as just with the heat, I like to leave open a little wiggle room. If humidity were to fluctuate to a higher humidity, the terrarium may become too humid. We recommend anywhere between 25 & 40%. If it's too dry in your terrarium, your skink's scales will begin to look and feel very dry. This is your chance to raise the humidity before shedding becomes arduous. I would consider buying a large cigar humidifier. You can tape it directly on the inside of your terrarium, and they come in all different varieties and sizes. A cigar humidifier is basically a special sponge enclosed in a plastic housing. It is equipped with little holes (like a salt shaker) to let the moisture out into the air. Just pour water into the little holes, and the internal sponge soaks it up...then just stick it to the inside of your tank near the bottom on the COOL end. Any humidity being released on the hot end would evaporate much quicker. These humidifiers are of course meant to keep cigars from drying out, but really big one's (for large humidors) can be used for virtually anything. You can purchase one at a tobacco shop (smoke shop), and probably some greenhouses will sell similar items. Another idea would be to increase the size of your water bowl. Both of these methods are not too terribly expensive...otherwise you could just try purchasing an electric humidifier to be placed in the room, NOT inside the cage. (Note: Carefresh substrate is very absorbent, and therefore will absorb a lot of moisture in the air.)
One other note, digital hygrometers (same as digital thermometers) are much more accurate than anything else. I had an erroneous 'needle' style hygrometer that was about 20% off of my actual humidity. It caused a lot of confusion. You can purchase a handy hygrometer/thermometer combination unit for around $10-15 dollars at places like RadioShack & Home Depot. Again, don't fret about humidity. Just keep an eye on your gauge, and your big water bowl and hot heat lamp will keep everything in check. Hint: Are your lizard's belly scales crackly and rough? This is a good sign you need to bump up the humidity a bit.
UV Lighting (ultra violet)
This little rumor doesn't ever seem to go away, but it's been said that blue tongued skinks are one of the few reptiles that do not require UV lighting. It doesn't hurt however, and is still generally recommended. Like anything though, there are varying opinions about this. I'm not sure how the rumor actually got started that blue tongues don't need UV lighting, but I find it hard to believe that they are some magical reptile that is excluded from the benefits of UV. One reason I believe keeps this rumor alive is the fact that a lot of reptile breeders have not used UV for years and their BTS are still alive and healthy. I think this just goes back to the fact that BTS are incredibly hardy creatures. If you are unable to obtain UV lighting (all pet stores should carry the proper equipment), an ideal solution would be to obtain a UV Mercury Vapor bulb which emits great light intensity and supposed superior UVB/UVA output. One problem with the MV bulbs is that the actual globe is very large and will not fit in most standard lamps. They're also quite expensive, but do usually come with a year warranty. Taking your animals outside is also an excellent way for them to catch some UV rays. We highly recommend it.
UVA & UVB
http://russiantortoise.org/uvb.htm
http://www.reptileuv.com/
Basic bulb differences and meanings
Regular reptile basking lights: These are often a bit expensive and sometimes advertised as "neodymium", or "neodymium coated". This basically just means that the bulb is colored to make your reptile look cool and different compared to a regular daytime bulb. No UV output.
Common Incandescent: Probably the most common bulb. There is nothing special about it, and you could use it for practically anything around the house. No UV output. Incandescents are made with tungsten filament technology and do not (and cannot) produce UV. You can purchase them at a grocery/hardware store, or your pet store, and the only difference is a tripled price tag and possibly a colored bulb that has been designed to remove the yellow wavelengths (seen in typical household bulbs) which again, goes back to the neodymium coating.
Infrared/Red bulbs: These bulbs are typically very hot but give off less light than typical spot lamps. They can be used as basking lights but because of the lack of actual light, it is recommended that you use an additional light source such as an overhead UV tube. Otherwise, your terraria will be awfully dim.
Mercury Vapor (MV): A usually large bulb that emits both heat and UVB. Also fairly expensive although they typically do come with year warranties. These bulbs do not need to be as close to the animal as a tube/fluorescent bulb would. The mega-ray MV bulbs are said to be the best although I've never personally tried them. Some say these bulbs are actually unsafe in that they supposedly emit UVC rays which can be harmful; they are also said by some to be prone to shattering. I'm not sure how true that is as companies would not offer year warranties on fifty dollar bulbs if they were that prone to shatter. Who knows; add it to the list of a million opinions and arguments. Here is a person that has tested all kinds of aspects of the MV. He concludes that they do not emit UVC rays and goes on to explain it (and a lot of other things) in detail. Click.
Nite-glo: Obviously, these are bulbs created for nighttime viewing. Remember it's best to have a terrarium that is NOT heated up at night. You want your animal to go into a deep cool sleep each night and not remain active. A BTS will normally goto sleep when cold. If he stays hot, it can disrupt his cycle. Night bulbs are fun, and fine to use, but if it heats up your tank, maybe try turning it off when you go to bed.
Floodlights: Again, these will work if you can maintain correct temps. Flood and other similar lights will spread the light instead of a narrow focused beam seen with typical reptile bulbs. Just remember that correct temperatures are your number one concern; not the type of bulb.
Fluorescent tubes: Long tubes that hang above your terrarium. These tubes typically stop emitting the proper UV waves at about six months even though the light is still shining bright. One neat new item is the ReptiSun 10.0. It's what is known as a "Compact Fluorescent Lamp" and it looks just like those new energy saver bulbs. It's essentially the same thing as a long narrow fluorescent tube except it's molded into arches and screws into a standard light fixture! This is very convenient as you don't need the external ballast box to hang a long fluorescent tube. One tube brand that is recommended is the ReptoGlo 8.0. One negative however is that the UV would be focused to one spot instead of the long tube which would spread the UV across the entire tank. If the animal were buried on the opposite end all the time, the UV would be pretty useless.
Lighting/Heating/TemperatureBlue tongued skinks require a wide ranged temperature gradient consisting of a hot side, a cool side, and a middle range in between. Regular daytime temperatures on the cool end can be anywhere from the low 70's to the low 80 degree range, and the basking end consistent at 95º to 100º. Some would say as high as 110º on the basking end, but I think that's too high. You want to maintain a little bit of 'wiggle room'. If the sun shines through a window, or your in-laws turn the heat up, it could definitely fluctuate the temperature in a room. 100º is ideal. If your temps are 110º+, the slightest rise in heat could raise the temperature dangerously high. Proper temperatures can be achieved and regulated with the use of a heat lamp. They usually cost $10-15 at your local pet shops (or cheaper at Home Depot), and I would highly suggest purchasing a size no smaller than a 10 inch diameter. This widens your heat range, and prevents the lamp from tipping. Any smaller than 10 inches, and the lamps can tip very easily (if you're heat lamp is clamped, you don't need to worry about this). You will also need a bright incandescent bulb for the lamp. They will probably be for sale right next to the heat lamps, and a 100 watt will probably be fine. If you have a taller enclosure, a 150 -200 watt bulb may be necessary to maintain your basking temperature. You may use virtually any sort of bulb as long as your temperatures are correct. Simply place your lamp on the top of your screen lid, turn it on, and you're ready! Leave it on for a few hours, and do a few test runs before putting in the animal. You want to be sure that it's not too hot, or too cold. If your animal is always on the cool end, or laying in its water dish, it's likely too hot. Watch those temps, and be prepared! Do not buy on an impulse. You want everything tested and ready BEFORE buying your animal. You don't want to bring your animal home, and then learn of mistakes or problems. Do what it takes to achieve the correct temperatures. Usually, a heat lamp is all you need to achieve your 100º basking area, but if not, you may need to supplement with a heat mat or a more powerful bulb. Hint: Buy your heat lamps (and bulbs such as spot/halogen/flood) at Home Depot, and save a ton of money! They're the exact same units in the pet store, except for the tripled price tag. Scroll down to the UV section for info on specific bulbs.
Important advice
- Please exercise extreme caution if you have cats loose in your home. There are many cases of cats knocking over reptile heat lamps and causing fires.
- Be very mindful of where your heat lamp is at all times. For example, when removing your BTS, be careful not to set your heat lamp down on the bed or carpet.
- It is a very good idea to keep an extra bulb handy in case your main one burns out. You may be surprised how long it takes you to get another.
Night time temperatures should drop no lower than 60º (temperatures dropping below 60 will not hurt your BTS, but may induce a brumation [essentially a hibernation] state that typically results in long sleeps and a complete loss of appetite). Just turn your heat lamp off at night, and back on in the morning. We suggest a 12 hour cycle such as 9am-9pm, or 10-10, 11-11, etc. This is called the photoperiod. If you work late, it might be a good idea to set your timers from 12-12. This way, the lights come on at noon, and you will have until midnight to play with and handle your pet. Remember, if you have some insanely cold house...for example air conditioning in the summer, you might want to consider a small under-the-tank heater. You can also use a ceramic heat emitter. They put off plenty of heat, but no actual light. See picture below. Ceramic heat emitters are pretty expensive costing anywhere from 30 to 50 U.S dollars, but are very effective. Keep in mind however that you don't want 90 degree night time temperatures; keep the entire tank in the 60-70's at night. I believe that BTS benefit from a nighttime "cool down" periodthe heat keeps their bodies active and their blood and organs pumping. A natural nightly cool down period rests their bodies and helps put them into a cool sleep. One thing that a lot of people don't realize is that BTS can take the cold60's-70's during the night will not hurt them at all. DO NOT use heat rocks. They can actually burn the belly of your skink. The reason we say no to heat rocks is that they're prone to malfunction, and it also puts an electrical hazard in your tank 24/7. Your animal will often be wet from soaking in his water...then imagine him running on top of the heat rock, or rubbing on the side of the hot and electrically powered rock device. Electricity and water are obviously not a good combinationI don't even understand how or why heat rocks were invented. You shouldn't have anything electrical in your terrarium; period. Some people still of course say they've used heat rocks successfully for years...blah, blah blah...but I will tell you this: It's an extreme danger, so why on earth risk it, when you don't even need it. And most people would have a change of heart of course once their animal was actually electrocuted and killed. Below is an under-the-tank heater or "heat mat", and a ceramic heat emitter.
Note: Heat mats are generally NOT needed and should only be used on hard surfaces and UNDER your tank (not inside). They can get insanely hot, and will very easily burn carpet. Also keep in mind that it IS possible that a heat mat could heat up the bottom of the glass to unsafe temperatures. Try it on low at first, and monitor it before leaving your BTS inside. Thermostats are recommended. DIGITAL TEMP GUNS are essential in these cases and we talk about them in the next section. Remember, never use any type of heat pad or heat rock inside your terraria. Human heating pads are acceptable when holding the bluey on your lap, the couch, etc.
Many people have asked me: "I have an under-tank-heater and a hot bedroom, so do I really need a heat lamp? Absolutely. The sole purpose of the heat lamp is to simulate the sun's direct rays shining down on your lizard's back. If your bluey is just sitting in a heated enclosure...well, just imagine the difference between sitting in a sauna and sitting outside in the sun. It's obviously a huge difference in the sense of basking. Plus, without the heat lamp it is near impossible to regulate the differing temperatures required for each end of the terrarium. Again, it is my opinion that without a basking light, they cannot bask. Imagine going into a sauna for a sun tan. It just doesn't work. I have also been asked: "Can I keep my tank next to the window during summer to save electricity?" NO!! Keeping a BTS in a hot room, or by a hot window is not efficient at all, and is extraordinarily dangerous. If your goal is to give them UV, they would need to have a UV light directly overhead or be taken outside for two reasons: (1) Most windows filter 95% of all UV and (2) Your actual cage glass will also filter any UV. If your goal is heat, keeping them by a window is especially dangerous because temperatures can fluctuate like crazy raising your temps to dangerous levels. Not to mention that the entire cage would heat up. They would have no variance in temperature, extreme heat everywhere, and no place to escape. Also, do not attempt to put your terraria "halfway" in the shade of your room. It doesn't work. Remember, your basking rock should be located directly UNDER the heat lamp, and the area should be kept at 95º-100º. The goal is to keep that smooth flat rock HOT so they can warm their bellies. Place your hand flat on the rock...if it burns your hand, and you have to pull away, it's too hot. But if you can withstand it and keep your hand there, it's just right. Also, it's important to get a temperature gauge so you can see how hot it is during the day, and at night. You can find both quality items, and cheap items, at any pet or hardware store, and many come with humidity gauges. Also, eBay is a good place to buy some of these productsyou can find a lot of unique things at great prices and have them shipped right to your doorstep!
Important: Visit www.tempgun.com or even a store like RadioShack, and purchase a tempgun. Simply point, click, and you've got the temperature of your terrarium. These are ideal because you can check your hot end, cool end, and middle range all in a matter of seconds. They are also far superior to any needle style gauge or sticky strip. Digital thermometers with probes also work well. In my opinion, a digital tempgun is the only tool that will 100% accurately measure your temperatures. The cheapest one is $25, and will work great. One neat feature is that you can "sweep" your terraria. Simply push the button, hold, and slowly move your hand from the hot end to the cold end and back again. Gauges simply stick to the side, and measure nothing but the ambient air in that exact location. Pretty useless.
Some say to keep the substrate moist to maintain an even humidity level, and that is an absolute falsity. Be very cautious as if your terrarium is damp in any way, bacteria can grow FAST, and your skink could develop skin problems such as scale rot. Don't ever dump water into the tank, or just drench the substrate. Generally, a large water bowl will provide all the humidity they need, so don't even worry about using a mister. Humidity can range from 25-50%, but I feel 50 is a bit too high as just with the heat, I like to leave open a little wiggle room. If humidity were to fluctuate to a higher humidity, the terrarium may become too humid. We recommend anywhere between 25 & 40%. If it's too dry in your terrarium, your skink's scales will begin to look and feel very dry. This is your chance to raise the humidity before shedding becomes arduous. I would consider buying a large cigar humidifier. You can tape it directly on the inside of your terrarium, and they come in all different varieties and sizes. A cigar humidifier is basically a special sponge enclosed in a plastic housing. It is equipped with little holes (like a salt shaker) to let the moisture out into the air. Just pour water into the little holes, and the internal sponge soaks it up...then just stick it to the inside of your tank near the bottom on the COOL end. Any humidity being released on the hot end would evaporate much quicker. These humidifiers are of course meant to keep cigars from drying out, but really big one's (for large humidors) can be used for virtually anything. You can purchase one at a tobacco shop (smoke shop), and probably some greenhouses will sell similar items. Another idea would be to increase the size of your water bowl. Both of these methods are not too terribly expensive...otherwise you could just try purchasing an electric humidifier to be placed in the room, NOT inside the cage. (Note: Carefresh substrate is very absorbent, and therefore will absorb a lot of moisture in the air.)
One other note, digital hygrometers (same as digital thermometers) are much more accurate than anything else. I had an erroneous 'needle' style hygrometer that was about 20% off of my actual humidity. It caused a lot of confusion. You can purchase a handy hygrometer/thermometer combination unit for around $10-15 dollars at places like RadioShack & Home Depot. Again, don't fret about humidity. Just keep an eye on your gauge, and your big water bowl and hot heat lamp will keep everything in check. Hint: Are your lizard's belly scales crackly and rough? This is a good sign you need to bump up the humidity a bit.
UV Lighting (ultra violet)
This little rumor doesn't ever seem to go away, but it's been said that blue tongued skinks are one of the few reptiles that do not require UV lighting. It doesn't hurt however, and is still generally recommended. Like anything though, there are varying opinions about this. I'm not sure how the rumor actually got started that blue tongues don't need UV lighting, but I find it hard to believe that they are some magical reptile that is excluded from the benefits of UV. One reason I believe keeps this rumor alive is the fact that a lot of reptile breeders have not used UV for years and their BTS are still alive and healthy. I think this just goes back to the fact that BTS are incredibly hardy creatures. If you are unable to obtain UV lighting (all pet stores should carry the proper equipment), an ideal solution would be to obtain a UV Mercury Vapor bulb which emits great light intensity and supposed superior UVB/UVA output. One problem with the MV bulbs is that the actual globe is very large and will not fit in most standard lamps. They're also quite expensive, but do usually come with a year warranty. Taking your animals outside is also an excellent way for them to catch some UV rays. We highly recommend it.
- UVA (ultraviolet-A): Long wavelengths of 320-400nm (nanometers = billionths of a meter). UVA is visible to the human eye, and supposedly induces instinctive behavior such as mating, eating, etc. Also said to be beneficial for psychological reasons, and the general or mental well-being of the animal.
- UVB (ultraviolet-B): Short wavelengths of 290-320nm. Much more powerful, and invisible to the human eye. Allows for the formation of vitamin D3, which is important for calcium metabolism. Glass will also block virtually all UV rays, so keeping your terrarium by a window is useless. Even if the window is open, your terrarium is probably made of glass as well. One more thing to mention is 'full spectrum'. It's supposed to mean 'having BOTH UVA & UVB output', but products these days advertise basically whatever they want, and get away with it. NO incandescent bulbs can emit any UVB even if it says it does. Taking your animals outside is the best source for UV. There are varying opinions, but it's said that one hour of real sunlight is equal to about one week of UV bulb exposure.
http://russiantortoise.org/uvb.htm
http://www.reptileuv.com/
Basic bulb differences and meanings
Regular reptile basking lights: These are often a bit expensive and sometimes advertised as "neodymium", or "neodymium coated". This basically just means that the bulb is colored to make your reptile look cool and different compared to a regular daytime bulb. No UV output.
Common Incandescent: Probably the most common bulb. There is nothing special about it, and you could use it for practically anything around the house. No UV output. Incandescents are made with tungsten filament technology and do not (and cannot) produce UV. You can purchase them at a grocery/hardware store, or your pet store, and the only difference is a tripled price tag and possibly a colored bulb that has been designed to remove the yellow wavelengths (seen in typical household bulbs) which again, goes back to the neodymium coating.
Infrared/Red bulbs: These bulbs are typically very hot but give off less light than typical spot lamps. They can be used as basking lights but because of the lack of actual light, it is recommended that you use an additional light source such as an overhead UV tube. Otherwise, your terraria will be awfully dim.
Mercury Vapor (MV): A usually large bulb that emits both heat and UVB. Also fairly expensive although they typically do come with year warranties. These bulbs do not need to be as close to the animal as a tube/fluorescent bulb would. The mega-ray MV bulbs are said to be the best although I've never personally tried them. Some say these bulbs are actually unsafe in that they supposedly emit UVC rays which can be harmful; they are also said by some to be prone to shattering. I'm not sure how true that is as companies would not offer year warranties on fifty dollar bulbs if they were that prone to shatter. Who knows; add it to the list of a million opinions and arguments. Here is a person that has tested all kinds of aspects of the MV. He concludes that they do not emit UVC rays and goes on to explain it (and a lot of other things) in detail. Click.
Nite-glo: Obviously, these are bulbs created for nighttime viewing. Remember it's best to have a terrarium that is NOT heated up at night. You want your animal to go into a deep cool sleep each night and not remain active. A BTS will normally goto sleep when cold. If he stays hot, it can disrupt his cycle. Night bulbs are fun, and fine to use, but if it heats up your tank, maybe try turning it off when you go to bed.
Floodlights: Again, these will work if you can maintain correct temps. Flood and other similar lights will spread the light instead of a narrow focused beam seen with typical reptile bulbs. Just remember that correct temperatures are your number one concern; not the type of bulb.
Fluorescent tubes: Long tubes that hang above your terrarium. These tubes typically stop emitting the proper UV waves at about six months even though the light is still shining bright. One neat new item is the ReptiSun 10.0. It's what is known as a "Compact Fluorescent Lamp" and it looks just like those new energy saver bulbs. It's essentially the same thing as a long narrow fluorescent tube except it's molded into arches and screws into a standard light fixture! This is very convenient as you don't need the external ballast box to hang a long fluorescent tube. One tube brand that is recommended is the ReptoGlo 8.0. One negative however is that the UV would be focused to one spot instead of the long tube which would spread the UV across the entire tank. If the animal were buried on the opposite end all the time, the UV would be pretty useless.
would a 10.0 be to strong for a turtle, i have 5.0 on the turtles right now, could i switch the bulb out safetly?