Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!
- Thread starter SantaMonica
- Start date
no2 is nitrite, no3 nitrate, nh3/nh4 ammonia, po4 is phophateWeylin;2950945; said:
From what I am gathering it removes them all. no2,no3,and nh3/nh4 are all part of the nitrogen cycle so that makes sense and po4 is removed as well. I didn't design it but I've read 38 pages so far and linked to a few sites and that is what I believe they are saying.
If so, I'm in like Flynn. I am going to Savannah for the weekend but will start my own prototype plans/parts upon coming back next week. This sounds like a God send for a reef.
Yes, scrubbers (i.e., algae) eat ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, metals, and CO2, and release oxygen.
Thats great news.. Ill try and get some pics of my filter up.. Its really amazing, i've always had a problem with green slime algae.. Since the past week, its stopped growing and turning brown..
I originally was not going to try one of these, but then I started having algae... I might have to do one just to keep the algae off of everything in the tank! This will come after a waterchange system though, because this will take some room and I am looking to get rid of my sump...
Any idea of how to do this sumpless? Other than the obvious above tank setup. I would do it above the tank but I do not want to blind anyone when they walk in the room!
Any idea of how to do this sumpless? Other than the obvious above tank setup. I would do it above the tank but I do not want to blind anyone when they walk in the room!
If sumpless, it must be above the tank. However, if you just have an acrylic box built, it will enclose all the lights. A box will be about $100 at a plastics/acrylics shop. Or many people online can do it.
Update: Other ways to reduce nutrients
If you are using a scrubber, here are some other permanent ways to reduce nutrients (aside from feeding less), starting with the easiest first:
o Remove floss/foam/socks (they trap food and cause it to rot).
o Remove chaeto (also traps food and causes it to rot).
o Remove bio balls (or similar media) slowly (they create excess nitrate, and trap food).
o Remove all sand in your sump (food settles in sand and rots); if anything, use LR.
o Use kalkwasser (lime water) in your top-off (the higher pH causes phosphate to precipitate).
o Change any area of the sump that lets food settle to the bottom; all food should
continue through the sump and back to the display (this is why an open sump is best).
o Reduce sand in your display to 1/4 inch (6mm), or increase it to 4 inches (10cm).
o Using an ultraviolet sterilizer also helps reduce phosphates, but it also kills the live
pods that come from the scrubber; thus it's not recommended for normal use.
If you are using a scrubber, here are some other permanent ways to reduce nutrients (aside from feeding less), starting with the easiest first:
o Remove floss/foam/socks (they trap food and cause it to rot).
o Remove chaeto (also traps food and causes it to rot).
o Remove bio balls (or similar media) slowly (they create excess nitrate, and trap food).
o Remove all sand in your sump (food settles in sand and rots); if anything, use LR.
o Use kalkwasser (lime water) in your top-off (the higher pH causes phosphate to precipitate).
o Change any area of the sump that lets food settle to the bottom; all food should
continue through the sump and back to the display (this is why an open sump is best).
o Reduce sand in your display to 1/4 inch (6mm), or increase it to 4 inches (10cm).
o Using an ultraviolet sterilizer also helps reduce phosphates, but it also kills the live
pods that come from the scrubber; thus it's not recommended for normal use.
Thats for the new update.. Im running the tank only on the scrubber and a few bio rings in a corner filter..which is hooked up to a powerhead.. I like the new box idea.. I might try it..
