• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

My 600 gallon build

Preacher

Preacher

Dovii
MFK Member
Apr 1, 2014
293
284
102
west tennessee
This will be my first aquarium build and I would like some advice. I will be using 3/4” birch plywood and pond armor. Basic dimensions will be 96” long, 40” wide, and 36” tall.
Question 1: I will do 2 viewing windows in the front. 44 3/4” x 33” each with 1/2” thick glass with 5” of bracing around each window. The side viewing windows will be 34”x33” with 1/2” thick glass. Will the 1/2” thick braced glass be thick enough?
Question 2: When sealing the insides before applying the pond armor and fiberglass strips around the seams, is it necessary to use a putty in the seams?
Question 3: What length screws do I need to use in the 3/4”x3/4” corners?
Question 4: What brand wood glue do you recommend?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Matteus, twentyleagues and Gpdriftwood
From research I've been doing I wouldn't do a non braced tank that size. By bracing I mean verticle 2×4s at some where between every 8-12", and horizontal connecting at top and bottom (think home walls). You'll also need cross bracing across the top from front to back either in the form of plywood with openings cut or 2×4s. 1/2 should be good if properly braced, but if you go to a glass tank calculator once you go deeper then 30" your safety number drops exponentially would definitely be safer using 5/8 or 16mm. I've seen builds that use a "fillet" in the corners/seams and others just the fiberglass mat. It's very hard to get a good answer to some of these questions, and a lot of builds gloss over these things. I've been researching (you can read that as afraid to pull the trigger if you want) building a plywood tank for a couple of years. I have a friend that built a very large tank using plywood and a steel frame with acrylic widows. I don't remember the size exactly but it the width of his basement and easily 10' front to back over 5' deep. He was able to shed a bit if light on the subject for me but even having his input some things are still in shadow. He used to build/fix bridges. His forte is welding and structural integrity. He has pointed out alot of failures and the builders "dissing" certain epoxies when more likely the failure was from the structural integrity of the base of the build or possibly the application of the epoxy in some cases. He used max acr I believe but likes and has used pond armor on other projects. His tank has held water for over 20 years with only minimal repairs, one was very large he replace one of the viewing panels as it had started to discolor and craze 10 years or so in. I've known him for 10 or 15 years and he is 20 years older then me. He is tearing the tank down in the next couple of years and I've offered my help. I really want to see the integrity of the bits and pieces.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joshuakahan, jjohnwm, Bbuckley and 3 others
twentyleagues said:
From research I've been doing I wouldn't do a non braced tank that size. By bracing I mean verticle 2×4s at some where between every 8-12", and horizontal connecting at top and bottom (think home walls). You'll also need cross bracing across the top from front to back either in the form of plywood with openings cut or 2×4s. 1/2 should be good if properly braced, but if you go to a glass tank calculator once you go deeper then 30" your safety number drops exponentially would definitely be safer using 5/8 or 16mm. I've seen builds that use a "fillet" in the corners/seams and others just the fiberglass mat. It's very hard to get a good answer to some of these questions, and a lot of builds gloss over these things. I've been researching (you can read that as afraid to pull the trigger if you want) building a plywood tank for a couple of years. I have a friend that built a very large tank using plywood and a steel frame with acrylic widows. I don't remember the size exactly but it the width of his basement and easily 10' front to back over 5' deep. He was able to shed a bit if light on the subject for me but even having his input some things are still in shadow. He used to build/fix bridges. His forte is welding and structural integrity. He has pointed out alot of failures and the builders "dissing" certain epoxies when more likely the failure was from the structural integrity of the base of the build or possibly the application of the epoxy in some cases. He used max acr I believe but likes and has used pond armor on other projects. His tank has held water for over 20 years with only minimal repairs, one was very large he replace one of the viewing panels as it had started to discolor and craze 10 years or so in. I've known him for 10 or 15 years and he is 20 years older then me. He is tearing the tank down in the next couple of years and I've offered my help. I really want to see the integrity of the bits and pieces.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your response. I wasn’t clear enough on my bracing. I’m planning to do 3/4” plywood 5” wide bracing all the way around viewing windows and on the back every 8”. With one solid sheet pulling it all together for the bottom and bracing across the top as you mentioned. This will make where it’s braced an 1 1/2” thick. Similar to what DIFish did on his 600 gallon. What’s that sound like to you? Think it will work?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bbuckley
Preacher said:
Thank you for your response. I wasn’t clear enough on my bracing. I’m planning to do 3/4” plywood 5” wide bracing all the way around viewing windows and on the back every 8”. With one solid sheet pulling it all together for the bottom and bracing across the top as you mentioned. This will make where it’s braced an 1 1/2” thick. Similar to what DIFish did on his 600 gallon. What’s that sound like to you? Think it will work?
Click to expand...
Bracing it with plywood?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bbuckley
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom