My new 2600 gallon plywood tank project

Ramesh

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jul 25, 2008
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I really want VL to be this tank right as I am watching closely for my own build.
I have bought 3g of black Pond Armor and wanted to know if it is compatable with epoxy resin?
I want to fiber glass the seams and corners with tape/cloth and use exopy to coat the inside before going over the top with PA.
Also will epoxy adhere to cement sheeting?
I have my fingers crossed for you VL, GL mate.
 

Ozkar

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 5, 2007
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Excellent!

BTW VL, what procedure and materials did you use for the window redo? I will need to reseal my tank's windows eventually, and it sounds like you had some good results the second time around on your windows. Did you end up using that acrylic primer stuff? What did you use for the gasket spacer?

Sorry for all the questions, but you da man!
 

VLDesign

Silver Tier VIP
MFK Member
Mar 20, 2007
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I really want VL to be this tank right as I am watching closely for my own build.
I have bought 3g of black Pond Armor and wanted to know if it is compatable with epoxy resin?
I want to fiber glass the seams and corners with tape/cloth and use exopy to coat the inside before going over the top with PA.
Also will epoxy adhere to cement sheeting?
I have my fingers crossed for you VL, GL mate.
Thanks,

Run those questions past Butch @ pond armor to be 100% sure but I don't see a problem with your plan at all. Wish I did that on mine now.

And yeah epoxy should adhere to cement sheeting. You should acid etch (with muriatic acid) the cement though so it is free of oil residue.
 

VLDesign

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Mar 20, 2007
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Excellent!

BTW VL, what procedure and materials did you use for the window redo? I will need to reseal my tank's windows eventually, and it sounds like you had some good results the second time around on your windows. Did you end up using that acrylic primer stuff? What did you use for the gasket spacer?

Sorry for all the questions, but you da man!
Kept it simple:
scraped all the old 795 off the acrylic
sanded the area down with 100 girt paper in my sander
wiped the sanded down area with denatured alcohol then let dry
Primed the window and the pond armor area with a pint of Dow Primer C (Have a pint extra if you wanted to buy it.)
Let dry for 30 mins
Applied 6 tubes of 795 per window with one huge bead in the center of the primed area (Fully opened caulk tube)
Didn't use spacers again. DIdn't want anything to prevent full contact with the silicone
Pressed windows in and applied pressure to ensure silicone spread out fully
Braced for 2 weeks with 3 boards per window. Left, right, and center.
 

VLDesign

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Mar 20, 2007
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So good news, bad news, good news again.

Good news, tank is filled
Bad news, very small leak still
Good news, it's close to the area of my recent repair and it's never leaked this slow before so I am making progress at this point.

Will drain again today, and tomorrow recoat the recent repaired area one more time. Will also add more fiber tape to the corners some more for extra strength.

This is the first time I have been this optimistic so I think it's working out.
 

VLDesign

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Mar 20, 2007
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Scratch that last message.

After it sitting for a few hours it's leaking worse than ever.

Draining now will consider my options over the next couple of days.

Option 1 : Rebuild the back wall (Add additional 3/4 smooth ply to the back wall) to the existing wall and recoat with even more PA
Option 2 : Switch to liquid rubber (15 gallons should coat the entire tank nicely)

Both options cost the same. One is twice the work.

Getting very conflicting info from several real world users of Liquid rubber products and it's hard to tell if anyone is really happy with the results long term. A lot of people built the tank then less than a year later took it down or sold it off and can't offer any thing other than short term results.
 
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