Lots of good advice, thanks everyone. I think i will keep it as simple as possible since my wife will have to maintain the tanks when Im in Iraq. Id like to set up a denitrator coil but I think if there are problems while gone they will become huge and lethal. Water changes are pretty wife proof. I think instead I will set up a drip. Since we will be moving into a new house soon Im hoping I will have a chance to do some plumbing and make the drip and water change system built in and easy. I'll keep you ll posted.
NITRATE REDUCING SECRETS?
- Thread starter SemperFish
- Start date
I agree that water changes are necessary. There is another way though to reduce nitrate levels.
This can be accomplished by adding a filter filled with nitrate selective resin. The resin can periodically be recharged with a brine solution. In order for the resin to be effective; however, you need to avoid fouling which reduces the lifespan of the resin.
So you need excellent mechanical fitration before the water reaches the nitrate selective resin.
This can be accomplished by adding a filter filled with nitrate selective resin. The resin can periodically be recharged with a brine solution. In order for the resin to be effective; however, you need to avoid fouling which reduces the lifespan of the resin.
So you need excellent mechanical fitration before the water reaches the nitrate selective resin.
Fish Eat Fish;1571088; said:
The only thing that I would add is to read up on leiden style tanks, and that it is not for everyone but I have seen successful self-sustaining colonies kept for over 20 years with this style tank. I shouldn't think someone would rush off and do this without at least a little further probing so I think you speak too quickly yourself.
In regards to the comment about other substances building up in the tank. It is very possible for them to absorbed (only with high photosynthesis rates though) into the plant tissue and be outsourced from the tank through trimmings.
This tank has been set-up for 1.5 years with 4 water changes (other than a few extra during cycling, but not that many since I didn't really see a cycle due to the plants). I run a HOB filter for mechanical, but I have seen successful set-ups with only a powerhead.
P.S. Before you question my natural method you should question these methods using resins and the nitrate reducers. IMO, these are quick fixes that have a nasty tendancy to malfunction. I have used both aforementioned methods, and have had much more success with mine.
Before you judge other's methods (while this isn't my method I have found it a very successful experiment) you should probably find out if and how they work. I though we were in this to provide a thriving, humane life for these guys; and that is what I am doing. This is the only tank I have NEVER lost a fish from (and I keep mostly short-lived and/or fragile fish in there). It was just an overview comment that I wasn't going to expound on and waste my time until I saw if they were even interested or not.
P.S. Before you question my natural method you should question these methods using resins and the nitrate reducers. IMO, these are quick fixes that have a nasty tendancy to malfunction. I have used both aforementioned methods, and have had much more success with mine.
The new nitrate selective resins do not release nasty things into the water even when they are saturated; the old ones had that potential.
The new nitrate selective resins do not release nasty things into the water even when they are saturated; the old ones had that potential.
I have yet to see a picture of a nice healthy tank housing monster fish that has not had a water change in months (besides tanks with auto change systems, aquaponics, large water to fish ratio or obviously lakes,rivers,oceans etc)
In our tanks the ratio of water and plants to fish is to close and doesnt allow for this type of system. I know people who have just ignored maintenance and there fish will survive but that doesnt mean they are healthy.
The only real success I have seen is severum1's outdoor ponds. But they have large water to fish ratios and get natural sunlight to grow the mass amounts of plants that keep the water quality.
In our tanks the ratio of water and plants to fish is to close and doesnt allow for this type of system. I know people who have just ignored maintenance and there fish will survive but that doesnt mean they are healthy.
The only real success I have seen is severum1's outdoor ponds. But they have large water to fish ratios and get natural sunlight to grow the mass amounts of plants that keep the water quality.
aquaventions;1573439; said:
Well I take that back that particular statement, I have never used new resins. My only experience was about 5 years ago.
To the above post, I reiterate my original post. Leiden style set-ups do not have the normal fish to plant ratios; plus, the proof is in the pudding so to speak. With the right plants, and the right fish to fuel the system it can be done. I did note that this style does not work in every situation and for every person; but to say that it's bogus is naive.
Plants only remove nitrates if you are removing plants via frequent maintenance. Even then it takes a LARGE volume of plants to make a significant change. There is no substitute for water changes no matter what you hear. Nitrates are not the sole reason for a water change, just one of the ones we can measure. There are lots of large organic molecules that accumulate as well. These will accumulate and cause a strain on the immune system of the fish. The fish may in fact live and grow a small amnount in that environment but they will not be as colorful or as healthy as they would be if they lived in clean water. As the organic waste continues to add up you eventually have a reduction in total alkalinity that will lead to a pH crash that causes your biological filter to stop working. As long as teh pH stays down around 6.0 or less (it will drop to there with no water changes over time) the ammonia is not a problem as ammonia toxicity correlates directly to pH (higher pH, more toxic, lower pH less toxic). Biological filter activity ceases at around 6.0 pH. At that point your fish essentially live in a sewer and might even begin to show lateral line erosion or hole in the head disease. They will also more than likely be stunted in their growth. To help with large organic molecules use a high grade activated carbon. The cheap paper box brand carbon is absolutely useless for aquarium purposes as the pores in that are simply not the proper size to be effective it is actually the type of carbon that would be used for odor reduction like in an air filter. You want a good bituminous coal based charcoal. It should "sizzle" or "fizz" on contact with water. This carbon will help a great deal with organic waste products, but if left too long it will leach the same compounds back into your tank so it is essential to do your water changes and replace the carbon. Youc an get by without carbon, but not without water changes unless you hate your fish.
