undergravel filter

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Vince said:
Well, like 'em or not, it is the most cheapest of all the filtration system. I am currently in transition to change all my filtration system to UGF, instead of the power hungry canisters and pumps. This is why I bought a blower for $250, and a bunch of airstones, sponges, and Perfecto UG plates. Trying to save on my electric bills which is currently $400 for 11 tanks, which has Wet and Dry systems, Canisters, and now sponges. I love fish, but the electric bill here in California is making me crazy!!!! That's with a 20% discount due to the CARE program, if you meet the income requirements. I've used UGF in the past, and they seem to do the job just fine. Trying to stay away from popular belief, and doing my own findings. :lol2: NOT cycling tanks, been there done that, if you are impatient like me, just make frequent water changes, it works .... FOR ME. before I get flamed again by some "expert". :lol2:
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I hated my power bills in california. Two years ago when I kept my reef tanks there my bill was on average 300 bucks. partially because of the 2000 watts of light and partially because of having to run the ac in the summer time in Sacramento cause I had to keep my tanks cool and the chiller just added to the heat when it ran.
 
Undergravel filters work very well if they are maintained properly. I think that the people who say they don't work most likley don't understand what the undergravel filter does. Although I agree that there are better options, I have used for over 20 years and am still using undergravel filters with excellent resaults. If you vacuum the gravel bed often (which should be done any way regaurdless if you have an u/g or not) they will perform biological filtration very effeciently. I think where some people get the bad opinion on u/g's is that they don't always produce the crystal clear water that canisters and power filters often do. That's not what u/g's purpose is, it is to process waste. Using a u/g with a power filter works very well at keeping the water correct and stable and dose it for cheap. Using a power filter "alone" normally keeps the water nice looking but often times doesn't keep the water as stable as desired.

This alleged "test that proves they don't do anything" is bogus. Where can this data be viewed, I would like to read it.
 
I agree that ugfs are great for the money and as extra support in any size tank started out with them in my first tanks and never had and problems with mini cycles or algae blooms for that matter.
heck i'm sure i only changed the water monthly with them didnt do very many vacs and had some serious overstocking issues with some very large gold fish
Its interesting that this thread appeared because i've converted to high tech for filtration and am inthe market for 150g tank and am considering using ugfs again for my main filteration mainly because i'm am seriously running outa plugs running multi canistors power heads and hobs and even a p/skimmer on my f/w tanks
 
I run UGFs according to a tip by Dr Spotte and Moe. I used pond-rated bonded pads between the UGF plates and the gravel. The pad gives up to 800% more surface area for aerobic bacteria to adhere to. The pad also keeps the UGF slots clear of gravel blocks and prevents sludge from getting under the plate. These pads also make a great anchoring base for live plants. Once a plant was anchored in the pad, my fish couldn't uproot them at all. The most noted incident, using this arrangement, was when I used it on a 240gal bichir tank. I ran the setup for 2 years with 17 of these heavy eaters and performed routine gravel washes/water changes. When I drained the tank to move, there wasn't a spec of dirt under the plates. Even the white side of the bonded pad was still white. I never had any odors in the tank or water discoloration. This sold me on the use of this setup and I've been using it since in the last 23 years.

UGF.jpg
 
That is a great idea! But I think it might be a problem for cichlids who likes to dig alot.

Did you have to attach the pads to the plate using silicone?
 
I can't agree more about UnderGravel Filters. I have a 200G tank uo and running now at this location for more than 2 yrs, and I have never had any trouble with my water chemistry, with plants - when this tank was planted, plants grew like weeds - All I ever do is a 20% water change every 10-12 days, except when I go away on vacation - then it can be upto 30 days before the next water change.

Though most people prefer Nextonics, Penplex, or someother brand name UG Plate I always make my own. There truely simple and cheap to make. Hot Glue Gun (or Silicone Glue), Egg Crate, Plastic Screening and some medicine bottle lids from my local Duane Reade pharmacy. I don't use any added pads between the UG plate and gravel, been there did that - didn't like the results.
Once plants get rooted in you need a tow truck to get them out. Plus over time the pads will break down. Plus I don't use uprights in this setup, except for one - which is a return.

My 72" L x 20" W tank has been drilled with 3 - 1" holes, the 2 amin holes are 24" away from the right and left sides of the tank, the third hole is 6" away from the right side of the tank. The 2 main holes are used to draw water through the UG plate which has a 4" thick gravel bed on top of it, and the holes are connected through 3/4" plastic tubing to a empty Ocean Clear Canister Filter, and then drawn out of the filter with a low voltage 50watt 1000gph pump and returned to the tank. The return is the only upright in the tank and is run across the tank to come up in the corner. Through plumming fixtures I can lower the amount of water through each plate or totally shut down one or the other sides.

I find that this UG setup work best for me an just about everyone else I know of that has any tank of any size. Unless the tank is of tempered glass across the bottom in which case they then need to use uprights. Using the above mentioned setup I have kept flake, pellet and live food feeding fish. The only time I have ever placed materials in the canister is when keeping Discus and marines. (I guess if I where to put chemi-pure into the canister I wouldn't have the Algae problems I have and I could place greater distance between water changes, but I'm too lazy :)
 
I like the Idea of putting a pad under it. Haven't heard that before. The only problem I've had is the sludge that builds up under it. If the pad stops the gunk I'll try putting it back in.

When I lost power in my house last winter, the crud under the plate quickly turned deadly and killed all my fish so I haven't put one back in. It did keep my tank cleaner than now tho.

Overall I have to agree the VVVVVV shaped ones work way better than the cheap ------- ones. They last longer and clog less.
 
If you like under gravel filters and digging is an issue, i put down window screening in mine. put a layer of gavel down, then cut the screen to the foot print of the tank, and put the other layer of gravel on top of it. that way you have always got filtration going, and they can dig to their hearts content. I have it in all my cichlid tanks. I also hear egg crate works well, and probably better because you can vacuum into it.
 
I heard nurmerous times that people ahve a planted setup with UGF's, then they want to take them out. So to my knowledge, to take them out you have to rip EVERYTHING OUT? Same goes for installing them on a mature tank (Decor/gravel etc)?
 
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