I have seen where a t is installed in the return you have with a valve to adjust flow through uv and run to the tank or back into the sump. this allows the flow through uv to be slowed and saves the cost of an extra pump but still should get about the same total flow.
UV sterilizer size?
- Thread starter jmatthewvan
- Start date
A smaller powerhead in the sump is fine, with a hose running up to the UV and returning back to the sump...that is how I run mine and it is much simpler set-up...the water should be flowing through the sump fast enough to not be running much of the same water through the UV...daveydoodle;3988533; said:
I don't think there is a "best" way to hook it up... but there are a few things to keep in mind when deciding which method you choose...daveydoodle;3988533; said:
Flow rate / light size is a major one... as covered previously...
You will want to thoroughly clean (mechanically filter) the water before pushing it through...
Physical particles going through a UV light pose two main concerns:
A) the "scratch resistant" quartz sleeve is just that, scratch resistant, not scratch proof. Particles can cause tiny scratches on the sleeve which will defuse the UV light/potency. Fish poo can smere onto the sleeve (especially if it's scratched) causing further blockage.
B) particles will cast shadows thus relieving anything behind it from the effects of the UV. While this may not sound like a whole lot, it could be the difference between life and death for a parasite, which could be the differnece between life and death for the fish the parasite lands (or doesn't land) on.
So placing a small pump/powerhead in the sump after the mechanical filtration is an option. Using a prefilter on this sump/powerhead is a good idea, even though it's after the mechanical filtration. You can pump this water anywhere in the system you choose. Since it's already gone through the sump there is no problem with pumping it back to the tank, but if you want to avoid the concerns of head pressure there is no harm in sending it back through the sump either.
As mentioned, putting a T fitting in your return line is also an option. If you take this approach I would suggest putting a ball valve on both pipes after the T (the one going to the UV & the one going straight to the tank). Be sure the ball valve is between the T & the UV, not between the UV & the tank. If the ball valve is between the UV & the tank this will cause backpressure in the UV housing which could cause a leak.
If your sump is broken into chambers with different water levels, you could also create a siphon from teh higher level to the lower level with the UV plumbed into the siphon. Naturally you will want to do some exploring with this approach to determine the flow rate and match it up with your UV size. This will create a very slow flow rate and would only be worth consdiering with a smaller UV unit. You will also want to ensure anytime the pump is turned off that the UV is also turned off. This is a rather unconventional approach, but it will work...
I'm sure there are many other approaches worth considering depending on the set up.
One of my personal favorites is using a Magnum HOT (250 gph) with a micron cartridge surrounded by filter floss (quilt batting) pushing water through a UV.
I decided to go with a 9 watt that comes with a 250gph pump.I kinda cheaped out on it but I think it'll still do the trick of curing my green water,I hope so anyways.Here's the link to the one I bought...http://cgi.ebay.com/Odyssea-Koi-Pon...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2305f4563c
jmatthewvan;3989468; said:
I cannot comment on the quality of the specific unit you've chosen...
but the size and flow rate should work fine for removing greenwater from your tank...
The effectiveness of the bulb will slowly degrade over time/use. It is very difficult to monitor performance in regards to parasites.... but it is very simple to monitor performance in regards to greenwater...
In other words, you will be perfectly safe to just replace the bulb when you notice it not working as well as normal... I would expect the bulb to last you 1.5~2 years for your application...
Cool,thanks! I've never used a UV sterilizer on any tanks that I've owned so i'm pretty excited to see the outcome...zennzzo;3989487; said:Nice find, good buy...that'll do the green water...
I know this gets annoying when people ask, but any chance people who currently have a UV Sterilizer running can take a photo and post how they have it operational.
It sounds like for me, with the 150 gallon tank and 40 gallon sump, (1800 gph return pump - 1200 @ 5' head height) that the best, most effective way to operate this would be with the "T" in the return line, and 1 line going to the actual tank, and the other line going back to the sump.
Would it work with an smaller pump added into the sump tank after all the mechanical filtration pumping directly through the UV Sterilizer and returning into the tank? Just essentially having 2 return pumps?
It sounds like for me, with the 150 gallon tank and 40 gallon sump, (1800 gph return pump - 1200 @ 5' head height) that the best, most effective way to operate this would be with the "T" in the return line, and 1 line going to the actual tank, and the other line going back to the sump.
Would it work with an smaller pump added into the sump tank after all the mechanical filtration pumping directly through the UV Sterilizer and returning into the tank? Just essentially having 2 return pumps?
I've setup UV in just about every way imaginable:
-powerhead in sump to UV returning back to the sump
-after the return pump from the sump
-after a cannister filter
-powerhead in tank to UV returning back to the tank.
I've found there isn't any real difference. If the flowrate is high a microorganism simply gets more passes through the UV for the same amount of time. UV damage is cumulative. Most of the numbers you see for flowrates are from drinking water uses where you usually only get one pass before someone drinks it.
-powerhead in sump to UV returning back to the sump
-after the return pump from the sump
-after a cannister filter
-powerhead in tank to UV returning back to the tank.
I've found there isn't any real difference. If the flowrate is high a microorganism simply gets more passes through the UV for the same amount of time. UV damage is cumulative. Most of the numbers you see for flowrates are from drinking water uses where you usually only get one pass before someone drinks it.
That is innaccurate...squint;3992309; said:
"UV damage" to a parasite is not accumulative...
When reviewing UV lights for aquariums the numbers suggested are based on aquarium use...
Any numbers I suggest are based on my esxperience using UV lights on aquariums while raising/breeding Blue Dempseys which are well known to be prone to parasitic infections...
Having used an array of UV lights (Danner 20W & 40W, Turbo Twist 9W & 18W, unknown brand 9W, unknown brand 13W) in an even wider array of applications...
This is my preferred method - Magnum HOT (rated 250 gph) with a prefilter using a micron cartridge with quilt batting wrapped around it pushing water through a 9+ Watt UV... in this photo it is being used with a Turbo Twist 18W...
