• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Water difference in different countries HELP!

duanes said:
Where I lived in Milwaukee, many of the pipes were made of lead, and installed in the 1930s.
In the mid 90s, as a chemist I was involved in a study testing to determine metals concentration before phosphates addition, and after.
Within a year, of the addition of 0.2 ppm per liter phosphate, in drinking water, lead was was reduced from 30 ppb to 15 ppb, and copper was also significantly reduced.

The phosphate addition did not effect my 20, 3000 gals of cichlid tanks at all.
Probably because by that time, I was already using heavily planted sump/refugiums as filtration, so I expect the plants used any extra phosphate before it had a chance to be problematic.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thank you, I think this thread has very quickly narrowed it down to phosphate.

As I said above I have a kit and Phosguard arriving today, i will post results if it works.

Thank you for help!
 
Toby_H said:
I "liked" Fishman Dave's post about further reducing light as well as feeding less before I saw your response.

I'm not going to argue that you, nor the rest of the FlowerHorn community that agree with you, are "wrong". But I will insist that actions have consequences.

The food we put in our tanks are, or become, nutrients for plants/algae. So the more food we give our fish, the more food we give our plants/algae. If you want to flourish your fish with nutrients but starve your algae of nutrients, you're going to find yourself in a bit of a pickle.

For that situation, as Dave suggested, further reducing your lighting is one place to start. The lights we put on our fish are for our benefit, not theirs. The fish don't want pitch dark all day, but soft ambient lighting or even more shaded than that is plenty for them.

As for the feeding dilemma, immediately removing uneaten food removes "excess" food added to the tank. Then effective mechanical filtration to collect the physical waste (poop) AND cleaning that filter frequently to remove the physical waste before it can break down will further help. My suspicion is these two suggestions (removing uneaten food and removing poop) are also commonly suggested by those who promote multiple feedings per day.

And of course, the one we all know, water change, water change, water change.
Click to expand...
This little asshat get 3 water changes a week! The filter is rigged to my water lines!

Drinking inlet and waste outlet, I have 2 ball valves controlling. When I water change I do t even need a bucket! I turn the outlet to the waste line, and run it down to 25%, swap it back to tank, the swap the inlet from the canister to the drinking water line and refill.

My post was in all humor, I am genuinely interested in what is happening here!

I nearly spend £2000 on an RODI, before the better half told me to go ask the Internet!

It seems we have come to a phosphate issue!

Thank you for your post, and i agree totally that flowerhorn keeping has it's differences and i totally get the actions have consequences etc, but as stated in the main post, I have AAA grade equipment and seasoned knowledge and this is my first encounter!

Also to answer about removing poop, I use an industrial grade sceptic tank bacteria in my tank.

It's called Septobac, there is a thread by @RD. That covers it's usage. It massively removes detritus and solids from accumulating in the canister.
 
I recently changed my light to full spectrum 7000k and had an explosion of algae after 1 day, I googled it and set my blue light to 10% and it basically fixed it in a day, the tank lights are now green but I have no new algae. Maybe you can try different light temperatures or wave lengths until you get one setting that is incompatible with your algae.
 
RyanScanner said:
I recently changed my light to full spectrum 7000k and had an explosion of algae after 1 day, I googled it and set my blue light to 10% and it basically fixed it in a day, the tank lights are now green but I have no new algae. Maybe you can try different light temperatures or wave lengths until you get one setting that is incompatible with your algae.
Click to expand...
Wow ok this is interesting, my light has 100% full spectrum, invluding uv and ir....

My tank is bare bottom, no plants.

Maybe it's not just phosphate, maybe it's my lights also.... If I upload the spec and timing of my light would you mind to look?

Thanks in advance
 
I’m very new to this so I’m no expert and my ones were on the cheaper side
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7574.png
    IMG_7574.png
    248 KB · Views: 2
4D3 said:
Wow ok this is interesting, my light has 100% full spectrum, invluding uv and ir....

My tank is bare bottom, no plants.

Maybe it's not just phosphate, maybe it's my lights also.... If I upload the spec and timing of my light would you mind to look?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
But my tank is fully planted so I don’t want them all to die off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top