What acrylic weld-on #4, #40 or?????

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CyberPunk

Feeder Fish
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May 11, 2010
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Moses Lake
I ma buildiing a 6x6x2.5 ray tank out of 3/4th cast acrylic and have seen and heard conflicting info on what to use in the joints. Eplastics told us to use #40, its a two part glue, other places say to use #4 as its for solvent welding. I was also reading that you need to anneal if you use the #40?

Any advice would be grealy appreciated! :)

 
I would never consider solvent for anything over 1" thick. Under 1" is fine. 2 part polymerizable cement is best for large projects over 1" due to the machining imperfections associated with thicker material and the difficulty in getting solvent to uniformly cover the area without bubbles. It's hard to get decent joints on big heavy panels with solvent which is why those in the know use the 2 part stuff for the big jobs. Look at how the seams are bonded in public tanks, these are done with 2 part cement and most are not annealed because they are assembled on site and the panels would not fit into an over. If you can anneal the panels after machining it's a good idea but not required. Curing with heat from 100-150F will produce a stronger joint also. All depends if the cement has a good bite on the base material and some will scuff sand to promote this. Much more to casting good joints than this simple summary, you have to think of #40/42 joint as a mechanical bond, solvent is more of a weld, if the weld dosen't penetrate the base metal good enough strength is jeopardized. Just like welding plate steel, i.e rivets.

The claim that 2 part cement is stronger? Controversial... but I believe the 2 part stuff is stronger. There is a lot of data and practical evidence to support this if you do the research.
 
Geeze....im gettin tired of people not listening lol....do NOT use #4 it is for .25" or less and even then i would prefer #40. #40 is used by every acrylic tank manufacturer in the world and is the ONLY glue made for building tanks. I do this for a living and i assure you my information is correct. Watch an episode of "tanked" you can watch them mix #40 and assemble their tanks with it. #4 is junk and so is #16 its also the same glue in different consistencies, its made for very small scale acrylic retail displays. If a plastic manufacturer told you to use #40 y are u doubhting professionals? They are in fact correct. People on here will tell u different and i promise you they are wrong. If you locate #40 for sale it says right in the disclaimer "this is the glue used in the aquarium industry" no brainer. Sorry to sound rude. Im a bit fed up with people giving terrible information on building acrylic tanks on here. #40 can be hard to find but take the time to do so. It is not hard to work with and will give you the results your looking for. Id buy a gallon for your build and it should be around $145 for the gallon kit. Goodluck with ur build

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Solvent is in fact solvent....#40 is almost the exact chemical properties of the acrylic itself. This means when you mix the two parts your basically making acrylic. With solvent your melting existing acrylic. Tanks break because there not glued right and air pockets form in the seams...you will run into problems down the road without #40. I also highly suggest tipping the tank at 45 degree angles and glueing all inside seams with additional #40 creating a bevel what looks like silicone on a glass tank but its crystal clear. There are several professional builders who use this method. Tanks without it are doomed for eminent failure and are CHEAPLY made. Someone will flame me for saying that but its true they just havent owned or seen a "real" acrylic tank. Its a simple principle of engineering. Everything will eventually break....its just how long until it does.....long story short get the #40.. haters of #40 have never used it, dont know what its intended for, and probably dont build tanks for a living. Acrylic is not cheap, Neither is the right glue for it.

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Tanks are also built one seam at a time with #40....if your good you can maybe do 2 at once. Think of this as you build....front and sides first...then the back...then the bottom...then the top...when ur done with all that its time to tip the tank and glue the inside bevels one at a time...this can take well over a week to complete. After glueing its time to clean it up with buffing...and thats a whole nother demon.

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