Whats the big deal about soft water cichlids in hard water. Rant

duanes

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I have seen this many times,

”I put my severum, or oscar in my high pH, hard water when young, and it’s been fine, 3 months, or even a year later.”

But often, maybe 3 years or less later, a post comes up.

“My oscar, or severum has lots of HLLE scars, and I haven’t done anything different.”

There are a couple things to take into consideration, along with the hard water..

One is water change schedule, and because it may be the same now, as it was 3 years ago, that cute little 3” oscar is quadruple that size, and putting out quadruple the waste, but those 50% water changes might be still only once per week.

Results the fish is swimming in fish pee, and fish poop soup, and high nitrates (no matter how great the filtration).

When most people get their tap water, it is 99.999% pathogen free, and close to nitrate free.

As soon as it is dechlorinated, it becomes a great home for nasty bacteria, and the more your oscar pees and poops in the water, the better place it is, for those bacteria to grow, so even with a 50% water change there are 6 days for bacteria to double, triple or more. Many pathogens reproduce at alarming rates.



And here is where the hard water comes into play.



Species that live in soft, tannin filled waters, have evolved (on a cellular level) to live with different bacteria and protozoa, than live in hard water, and evolved to resist those soft water species of bacteria. And tannins themselves are anti bacteria in many cases.

When a soft water fish species, is put in hard water the osmotic pressure, allows hard water bacteria to invade on a cellular level, and cause chronic disease.



I have also heard it said ….

“But my friend raised thousands of discus in hard water”.



Many discus breeders change large amounts of water on a daily basis, sometimes up to 90%, per day, to get good growth.

This is where the 99.9999% pathogen free tap water comes into play.

When those massive water changes are done, beside removing growth inhibiting hormones, and nitrate, they also remove a good portion of those bacteria every day, or even every other day, so bacteria that cause diseases like Hold in the Head are removed, and can’t get a foothold.

Most average aquarists don’t change 90% of the water in there oscar tank, once every week, much less every day.



To give an example of how osmotic pressure works.



When I treat a tank for ick, I add enough salt to bring the salinity (osmotic pressure) to 3ppt. That extra osmotic pressure is lethal to simple celled animals and lyses them.



Most fish are not acutely effected, or killed by that extra osmotic pressure, but it does put chronic low level stress on them, and allows (what would be) normally benign bacteria to enter soft water fish on a cellular level, causing chronic disease like HLLE.

Add an out of the norm osmotic pressure, to high nitrate, and the other stress factors of aquariums like cramped quarters or inappropriate tank mates, and it’s amazing we don’t see even more disease.
 
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thebiggerthebetter

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Great rant. We only need 1000x more of such rants. That would raise our communal knowledge to qualitatively new heights.
 

sevs and sajicas for me

Dovii
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Great post duanes duanes . So if someone does have moderately high pH and kh/gh and had a desire to keep soft water species, do you have suggestions or successful experience with keeping that low short of daily 90% water changes?
 

skjl47

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Hello; Allow me to add a thought. I am not the first to post this but over a few decades have practiced it. I try to keep only fish compatatable with my source water. Makes the whole fish keeping hobby so much easier. My fish stay healthy and live longer. I do not get to keep some species for sure but have come to terms with it.
 

Duckman77

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That was my take-away from that rant: Keep central americans that are adapted to my hard water. KISS-keep it simple, stupid.
 

CrazyPhishMan

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Look at where we are- ppl don’t trust science. It’s scary as it applies to hobby’s and life in general
 

samurai.cichlid

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discus breeders circumvent this issue by often doing 50%-100% water changes daily. with that approach people have had success with breeding discus in high ph water.

but i can see why lots of us would feel as though that's a bridge too far lol

being tank raised for generations also helps
 

neutrino

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I agree on a lot of what you're saying, particularly waste and bacteria load, but how often and how much water to change isn't a one size fits all situation. Stock levels, feed levels, feed ingredients, and tank ecology, including not just filtration but plants, substrate, redox, etc. all play a part. A primary reason some discus keepers have to do fanatical water changes has more to do with bare, nearly sterile tanks (aside from filtration) and overfeeding protein than it does pH, since many of these same discus keepers have low pH, soft water.

However, immune function in fish is a lot more sophisticated than the simple physics of osmotic pressure. We're not talking about single isolated cells, we're talking about a complex organism with mechanisms for balancing osmotic pressure. There are various interdependencies. For example, the softer the water, the more most fish urinate, it's not as simple and doesn't work as some people think.
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/evr_fi_osmoregulation

Scales and slime coat are a barrier to pathogens:
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/evr_fi_fish_immune_system

Some have the notion that fish can't cope with unfamiliar pathogens, not exactly true. What is true is that it takes some time to acclimate:
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/evr_fi_fish_immune_system?page=2

Fish immunity is more complex than most of us understand. For that matter, science is still studying the subject.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1050464898901929

I'm not an expert or aquaculture scientist, but I've read enough to know that the biology and biochemistry is often not as simple as our reductive reasoning makes it out to be. What I do know is for the most part I'm apparently doing something right. Fish I've kept have generally met or exceeded their commonly listed lifespans. I presently have a 15 yr old L260 pleco, some 13.5 yr old kapampa gibberosa, I've had severums live 15 years, etc. I do take into consideration native conditions, which are sensitive species, and how much I want to expend maintaining tank conditions far from my local water, it's why I used to keep black water fish but don't right now. But I also recognize fish are adpaptable within reason and most do not require that we exactly replicate their native water. If they did, we'd need to be a lot more knowledgeable than most of us are-- for example, how many know that G. sveni come from water low in calcium but high in silica? Fortunately for us most fish are adaptable-- within reason.
 

LBDave

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What about hard water cichlids being kept in soft water?
ph similar to natural conditions is important for all fish. Things like substrate material can work to buffer the ph and maintain alkalinity.
Improper ph can stress fish. What duanes is adding is precisely how it can affect the fish. Sounds like frequent water changes can overcome what the ph problem causes. Sounds legit but I still think the ph should be as close to natural as possible.
 
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