Gread thread Ash thx.
My experience so far with my Africans:
Aragonite works great as substrate as it helps to buffer the water and looks great when lit with Actinic and 10k's
Over filtration is a must for all my tanks but especially Mbuna or/and overcrowded tank.
I have also found extra circulation by reef pumps or power heads helps to keep the water moving eliminating dead spots and waste build up, more gets to the filter.
10k (w/ or w/out actinic) usually shows the best colors on all my African fishes. Not too bright though, I use std output T5's
Plenty of hiding spots, I use Lace Rock but it's a little pricey, PVC would work, along with rock piles obtained from your local rock supply. The more hiding areas the better. Also, if you have different size fishes, try to make smaller openings in your rock structures, as it will help the smaller less dominant inhabitants escape a beating.
I have had luck in my Tang tank growing Java fern (Microsorum pteropus) with low-ish light, took a little time for the plant to get used to the hard water, but be patient, you will see new growth after a few months.
Let algae grow on areas that don't need cleaning, I have copius amounts on my rock structures and back walls of the tanks. The fish graze on it constantly. It is pretty cool to watch all my Mbuna picking away all day in between feedings.
Have some sort of hospital tank or isloation chamber on hand for occasional beat up fishys. Not all tanks, but some of the more aggressive overcrowded ones may experience a general beat down of the most submissive fish. I have had a red zebra almost die on me a month or so ago and had to isloate for a week until it was better enough to get out of the isloation chamber and back into hiding in the rocks.
I have had the most luck feeding NLS (recently) to my Africans but also beleive Omega 1 is a great brand.
I do not try and breed so I have nothing to share on that.....yet.
I have always used and will continue to use Seachem products in my tanks. I know they are expensive but for me they are worth it. I use Malawi buffer only if i do a 50%+ water change to equalize the ph, otherwise I just rely on the Aragonite. But I always use Seachem Rift lake Cichlid salt, Trace and Prime. The combination of 30% weekly (or twice weekly) water changes and these products along with a healthy diet have produced some ever increasing beautiful colors for me. Water changes......water changes....always.
Lastly, I have been in this hobby for almost 13 years now and the African Rift lake fish are by far the most entertaining and interesting fish i have ever kept. And I have kept quite a few different fish(I have yet to try salt).
Thanks again Ash and hope you are still into these wonderful fish as you were when you started this thread 5 years ago!
My experience so far with my Africans:
Aragonite works great as substrate as it helps to buffer the water and looks great when lit with Actinic and 10k's
Over filtration is a must for all my tanks but especially Mbuna or/and overcrowded tank.
I have also found extra circulation by reef pumps or power heads helps to keep the water moving eliminating dead spots and waste build up, more gets to the filter.
10k (w/ or w/out actinic) usually shows the best colors on all my African fishes. Not too bright though, I use std output T5's
Plenty of hiding spots, I use Lace Rock but it's a little pricey, PVC would work, along with rock piles obtained from your local rock supply. The more hiding areas the better. Also, if you have different size fishes, try to make smaller openings in your rock structures, as it will help the smaller less dominant inhabitants escape a beating.
I have had luck in my Tang tank growing Java fern (Microsorum pteropus) with low-ish light, took a little time for the plant to get used to the hard water, but be patient, you will see new growth after a few months.
Let algae grow on areas that don't need cleaning, I have copius amounts on my rock structures and back walls of the tanks. The fish graze on it constantly. It is pretty cool to watch all my Mbuna picking away all day in between feedings.
Have some sort of hospital tank or isloation chamber on hand for occasional beat up fishys. Not all tanks, but some of the more aggressive overcrowded ones may experience a general beat down of the most submissive fish. I have had a red zebra almost die on me a month or so ago and had to isloate for a week until it was better enough to get out of the isloation chamber and back into hiding in the rocks.
I have had the most luck feeding NLS (recently) to my Africans but also beleive Omega 1 is a great brand.
I do not try and breed so I have nothing to share on that.....yet.
I have always used and will continue to use Seachem products in my tanks. I know they are expensive but for me they are worth it. I use Malawi buffer only if i do a 50%+ water change to equalize the ph, otherwise I just rely on the Aragonite. But I always use Seachem Rift lake Cichlid salt, Trace and Prime. The combination of 30% weekly (or twice weekly) water changes and these products along with a healthy diet have produced some ever increasing beautiful colors for me. Water changes......water changes....always.
Lastly, I have been in this hobby for almost 13 years now and the African Rift lake fish are by far the most entertaining and interesting fish i have ever kept. And I have kept quite a few different fish(I have yet to try salt).
Thanks again Ash and hope you are still into these wonderful fish as you were when you started this thread 5 years ago!