Since chlorine is absorbed and it is not a solid the flow rate and pressure does not change from absorbing chlorine.When pressure goes down you replace the filter, works for clorine too, just have to get an idea of the pressure drop in relation to clorine removal. Test and chart for 6 months and you should have a handle on it. Or just test and change.
it keeps the outside of the tubes clean, so its really only good if you want the nylon tubes to stay "clean"would it work better if i get the optional cat too?
The carbon filters WILL NOT remove chloramine.Good deal. By the way do you know what the chlorine (or is it chloramine) level of your tap water is (for a base line) ?
Luckily I dont have to deal with chloramine. The best way to decide is just test levels untill they get to be where you want them. You can also overshoot your weekly water changes a little ( the drip will be slightly diluted.)How do you decide how fast to drip? Wouldn't the cloramine build up if you drip too quickly?
The nitrates stay just as low as what they would be with one big water change (and a large change stresses the fish a lot more). the thing I like the best is the consistancy of the parameters. constant low nitrate levels, no weekly swings.Ok, I don't think this is for me then. Nice idea though. Also, are you comfortable with the ammount of dillution you are getting vs. one big % change a week. One big change has more of an affect on your water quality than many very small changes. Just wondering as possibly I will set up an aging system above my tank and attempt to drip from there.
Chris