My inexpensive drip system

rallysman

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what was your idea with the float valve?
 

Blub Blub

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Floor protection, in case the drain clogs. It gets blue ball cold here in the winter and my drain just goes to a pipe outside. I imagine that with a slow drip it could freeze up. If it becomes a problem I may go with a air conditioner condensation pump and just send it to sewage hell like you. A float valve could also give you some level of protection if the drip emitter blows off. I don't know if the drain would flow this amount of water or not, it might with a 25 lb. regulator on the line. I always expect the worst though, float valve may not be necessary.
 

rallysman

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back to finding a normally closed valve!
The lawn sprinkler ones might work. I may just put on of those on there and hook up a relay controlled alarm that would let me know if it failed.
 

Blub Blub

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Please excuse my brainfart on the above posts where I mentioned a float valve, what I meant was a float switch to control the sol. valve.

But anyway back to the solenoid valves. I noticed the more expensive ones for continuous duty had a rectifier circuit to convert ac to dc current. Evidently the ac current is what generates the high temps that fries things. So if the lawn sprinkler valves require a transformer that runs them off of dc current they may work.

Are these valves available at Lowes? Anybody know the price?
 

Blub Blub

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I'm not sure but I think all the lawn sprinkler type valves I'm seeing require a certain amount of line pressure to work properly. I don't know if they would work in a drain type application. Could be wrong though.
 

hillbilly

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Ok. Rallysman inspired me to build my own version of his drip system. I have a glass aquarium for a sump. I didn't want to tear it down and remove it to drill a bulkhead hole. Besides, the thing with possibly draining the sump after a power outage didn't sound good to me, so this is what I did. I have 2 - 1" return lines from the pump. The pump is external and above the sump with a priming pot, and has a check valve. I cut one of the return lines and installed a 1"x1"x 3/4" threaded tee. After installing a 3/4" nipple to the threaded end of the tee, a 25 PSI regulator was installed just in case, and to this a 3/4" faucet adapter with a 1/4" barbed outlet was added . 1/4" poly tubing was connected to the barbed outlet, and this was run to a washing machine drain. A 1/4" valve was placed in the tubing run to control,or shut off flow if needed. On the end a 1gph dripper was added. Incoming water is controlled by using a 25 PSI regulator, and another 1/4" faucet adapter connected to a faucet. 1/4" tubing is ran to the sump, with a 1gph dripper on the end. With this, the idea was to remove the same amount of water that was added. If the drippers clog, it will be easy to just replace them. Time will tell how effective this is.:grinyes:
 

rallysman

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please post pictures, thats a very interesting concept. :grinyes:
 

Blub Blub

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Ok. Rallysman inspired me to build my own version of his drip system. I have a glass aquarium for a sump. I didn't want to tear it down and remove it to drill a bulkhead hole. Besides, the thing with possibly draining the sump after a power outage didn't sound good to me, so this is what I did. I have 2 - 1" return lines from the pump. The pump is external and above the sump with a priming pot, and has a check valve. I cut one of the return lines and installed a 1"x1"x 3/4" threaded tee. After installing a 3/4" nipple to the threaded end of the tee, a 25 PSI regulator was installed just in case, and to this a 3/4" faucet adapter with a 1/4" barbed outlet was added . 1/4" poly tubing was connected to the barbed outlet, and this was run to a washing machine drain. A 1/4" valve was placed in the tubing run to control,or shut off flow if needed. On the end a 1gph dripper was added. Incoming water is controlled by using a 25 PSI regulator, and another 1/4" faucet adapter connected to a faucet. 1/4" tubing is ran to the sump, with a 1gph dripper on the end. With this, the idea was to remove the same amount of water that was added. If the drippers clog, it will be easy to just replace them. Time will tell how effective this is.:grinyes:

Do you have a 25 psi regulator on the drain side as well as the incoming side? If you do wouldn't the pump have to overcome the 25 psi rather than pump the water straight back to the aquarium (path of least resistance)? Maybe I misunderstood. The sudden change in direction could have overloaded my brain. :hypnotize We definately need some pics.
 

TankBuster

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Feb 19, 2006
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OK, I think we are forgetting the most important thing Here. MORE COWBELL Avatar is back:clap Oh ya and does your ph change at all with the filtration method you chose?
 
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