Pressurized CO2 Injection - 101
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
yeah anubias will be perfect. you could grow these in a toilet if you wanted to lol. they are really hard to kill. i would add Excel every couple days to help with the carbon supplementationColumbian Shark Catfish;4286584;4286584 said:
lol ok
I'm going to try a diy co2 just to see if the swords and crypts react to it, because they arent doing too well.
I'm going to try a diy co2 just to see if the swords and crypts react to it, because they arent doing too well.
jcardona1, do you have a list of parts to make the DIY Co2 reactor that you made with the clear pvc?? I'm going to make one this weekend.
sorry for the late reply, i know it's passed the weekend already!!Tropicalfishking;4398975;4398975 said:
i dont have a detailed parts list, but here's the old one i built, shows more clearly what parts you need. its pretty straightforward, i got everything i needed from lowes. http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154303&highlight=pvc+reactor
as for the clear pvc, if you want it, youll have to order it online. i get it here, since most places make you buy 10ft sections and its expensive! these guys actually sell it by the foot: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/844/Clear-PVC-Pipe/clear%20pvc/0
Thanks! I already built it yesterday and am waiting for the sillicon to dry, hopefully tonight I can test for leaks. I couldn't find the clear pvc anywhere so I just went with white.
Here's another excellent writeup from Orlanda @ Green Leaf Aquariums:
Green Leaf Aquariums said:This post is to hopefully help out the newb that is just getting started in a medium to high tech planted aquarium with the plan to add a successful pressurized co2 system. Im sure there will be a few things that I will need to edit or fix as this thread progresses.
So, lets get started.
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is fundamental to the function and success of the planted aquarium. Carbon dioxide is a chemical compound composed of two oxygen atoms bonded to a single carbon atom (O=C=O).
During photosynthesis, terrestrial and aquatic plants use carbon dioxide and water, removed from the atmosphere and combined with light energy to produce oxygen and sugars. Free oxygen is released as a gas from the decomposition of water molecules (H2O), while the hydrogen is used to generate chemical energy required for the formation of sugars, or glucose. These sugars may then be consumed in respiration or used to produce polysaccharides, complex carbohydrates, such as starch, cellulose, proteins, and other organic compounds required for plant growth and development.
In the planted aquarium ecosystem, carbon dioxide is introduced through the use of a regulator in combination with other specialized CO2 equipment; a complete CO2 system designed to promote an ideal and balanced ecosystem.
To understand the regulator, we must first take a closer look at the CO2 Cylinder.
CO2 Cylinder - Carbon dioxide (CO2) in a cylinder exists primarily in the form of liquid CO2, only the head space of the tank contains gas. The liquid allows the cylinder to maintain a constant and high pressure; as long as the cylinder contains any amount of the liquid CO2 the regulator’s high pressure gauge will read full, between 800 - 1000 PSI. When the liquid has completely evaporated, CO2 remains in the tank in its gaseous state, and the pressure will decline to zero. Because the cylinder contains liquid gas, it must always remain in the upright position.
CO2 Pressure Regulator - designed to reduce the high pressure inside of a CO2 cylinder to a lower, usable pressure that can be dispensed. The pressure-reducing regulator takes a pressure of 800-1000 PSI (pounds per square inch) from the cylinder, and regulates it, providing a controlled, reduced pressure output in the range of 1-30 PSI. All CO2 regulators have CGA (Compressed Gas Association) 320 fittings for USA and Canada. A CGA 320 fitting has a 0.825-14 NGO-Right Hand Thread. It is recommended to invest in a regulator that is UL listed. A UL listed regulator has been tested and certified by the “Underwriters Laboratory”, a trusted source across the globe for product compliance, to meet their safety requirements.
High Pressure Gauge - located at the nine o’clock position, it reads the amount of pressure present in the cylinder. As long as there is liquid gas in the cylinder the pressure will read at or around 800 - 1000psi. For CO2 cylinders, once the gauge reads in the red, the liquid gas is depleted and the cylinder should be refilled. The high pressure gauge does not represent the amount of liquid carbon dioxide in the tank. This measurement can only be determined by the weight of the tank less the tare weight (TW) of the tank; this determines the weight of liquid present. The tare weight is printed on the neck of the cylinder.
Low Pressure Gauge - located at the twelve o’clock position, it represents the working pressure or output pressure; the pressure you are using, which can be adjusted.
Adjustment Screw - Adjustments to the output pressure (read on the low pressure gauge) are made with the adjustment screw or knob located in the center of the regulator body. The output pressure is set by turning the screw clockwise to increase the output pressure. To reduce the output pressure, the screw should be turned completely counter clockwise, to vent pressure in the regulator, and then readjusted clockwise to the desired reduced pressure.
Tank Connector and Connector Nut - located at the three o’clock position, it attaches the regulator to the cylinder. Due to high pressure in the cylinder, this connection is a common location for leaks; it is critical to securely fasten the connector nut using the correct seal, nylon or permaseal. The connection must be tightened with a wrench.
Solenoid Valve - the solenoid valve is an electromechanical device that controls the flow of CO2 gas from the regulator to the aquarium. The solenoid should be connected to a timer or pH controller to control the input of CO2 into the aquarium. It is the on / off valve. The solenoid is typically mounted on the low pressure side of the regulator. The pressure in the solenoid will not get higher than the set output pressure of the regulator.
Pressure Relief Valve- functions to release excess pressure in the regulator.
Needle Valve - the most important part of the regulator. The needle valve provides precise control over the amount of CO2 allowed to enter the aquarium; it further reduces exit pressure of the regulator to approximately 1 - 3 psi. It allows you to fine tune and regulate the rate of flow (the number of CO2 bubbles per second) at the desired level. Not all needle valves, however, are created equal. It is important to invest in a quality needle valve for increased precision and to avoid the potentially negative effects of “end of tank dumps”. As the liquid gas in a cylinder nears empty, the pressure in the cylinder will decrease, causing the output pressure to quickly increase and potentially “dump” out of the cylinder into the aquarium. A needle valve will control this “dump” because it functions as the gateway that controls the volume of gas entering the aquarium, it will stabilize the increased output pressure at the set rate of flow (bubbles per second) preventing the CO2 from completely dumping into the aquarium.
Bubble Counter - a visual tool in measuring the number of bubbles per second entering the aquarium. A bubble counter allows you to count the exact number of bubbles per second so that fine adjustments can be made to the rate of flow.
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This post is for all of the planted aquarium newbies who are just getting started with CO2 and the planted aquarium or for those more experienced hobbyists looking for a review. Setting up a complete CO2 system for the first time can be a little intimidating, we hope that this post will help answer any unsolved questions and alleviate a little of the mystery involved before you dive in and set up your very own system.
The CO2 Pressure Regulator - The purpose of the CO2 regulator is to reduce the high pressure inside of a CO2 cylinder to a lower, usable pressure that can be dispensed into the planted aquarium. The pressure reducing regulator takes a pressure of 800 - 1000 PSI (pounds per square inch) from the CO2 cylinder, and regulates it to provide a controlled, reduced pressure output in the range of 1 - 30 PSI. The solenoid valve of the CO2 regulator is the powerhouse of the regulator. It is an electromechanical ON / OFF valve that controls the output of carbon dioxide gas into the aquarium.
The CO2 Cylinder - The CO2 Cylinder is a high pressure storage cylinder for the carbon dioxide (CO2) that you will be introducing into the planted aquarium. This is where the complete system starts, inside of the cylinder. Carbon dioxide in a cylinder exists primarily in the form of liquid CO2, only the head space of the cylinder contains gas. The liquid allows the cylinder to maintain a constant and high pressure. Because the cylinder contains liquid gas, it must always remain in the upright position.
There are several sizes of CO2 cylinders. The most standard size used for the planted aquarium tends to be the 5 lb cylinder, however, a larger 10 or 20 lb cylinder or a smaller 2.5 lb cylinder can also be used, based on your needs. If your aquarium has space restrictions and you are trying to keep your complete system a little smaller, then the 2.5lb cylinder may be ideal for you. On the other hand, with a larger cylinder, you have the potential of saving time and money. The increased storage capacity of a larger cylinder allows you to refill less often and potentially save money. In general, the average cost of refilling a 10lb cylinder is not much more than that of a 5 lb cylinder and you get twice the amount of CO2.
To use a pH Controller or Automatic Timer? - Ph Controllers are not necessary, but I find them nice to use for larger aquariums over 150G.
pH Controller - The pH controller provides a full-time, automatic pH monitoring system for the planted aquarium. It regulates the release of carbon dioxide, which is directly related to pH. The controller is designed to connect to the solenoid of your CO2 regulator. It is set to a desired pH level to be maintained in the aquarium; it then signals the solenoid valve to prompt the regulator to release or to stop releasing CO2 in order to maintain the set pH.
The controller enables you to maintain consistent and proper pH/CO2 levels. It is an extremely valuable tool in creating a healthy and stable aquatic ecosystem. It will help your plants flourish and can decrease the level of stress to your fish by eliminating fluctuation in pH.
Automatic Timer - The automatic timer provides a more basic approach to CO2 regulation. It allows you to control your regulator and aquarium lights simultaneously and effectively. The solenoid of your regulator can be plugged into one side of a dual outlet timer and the aquarium lights can be plugged into the other side. The timer is then set to turn the regulator and the lights on in the morning at the desired time; this promotes an ideal environment for plant photosynthesis. Set the timer to turn off the lights and CO2 output in the evening. It’s simple, easy to use, and very useful.
When using a timer, it is your responsibility to monitor and adjust co2 levels in the aquarium. CO2 levels are monitored through the use of a drop checker, and through observation of the health of your fish and plants. Fine tuned adjustments to CO2 levels are made with the regulator’s needle valve, by adjusting the bubble rate, or the number of bubbles per second entering the aquarium.
Using a timer, rather than a pH controller, can be considered a basic and inexpensive method of automating a CO2 system. On the other hand, a pH controller provides a full-time monitoring system of pH levels in the aquarium. It will regulate the release of CO2 in order to maintain a set desired pH, day and night. In comparison, using a timer versus a pH controller may save you a little CO2, because a timer shuts off the flow of CO2 gas at night when CO2 is not necessary.
The Drop Checker - Whether or not you decide to use a pH Controller or an automatic timer, it is always a good idea to use a drop checker to monitor and help fine tune CO2 levels. The drop checker is a glass reservoir designed to contain an indicator solution with a known KH (Carbonate Hardness). When submerged, carbon dioxide in the aquarium is absorbed into the indicator solution, until a point of equilibrium is reached between the aquarium water and the solution. As CO2 gas is absorbed into the indicator solution it lowers the pH of the solution, which in turn changes the solution color. This color, when compared against a pH color chart, allows you to gain an accurate perspective of the concentration of CO2 in the aquarium.
If you use a timer to automate your system, the drop checker is integral; it will be your primary measure of carbon dioxide. If you decide to use a pH controller, the drop checker is an excellent tool in helping you to determine and fine-tune the set point of your controller.
If you are introducing carbon dioxide into the aquarium via a pressurized CO2 system, it is recommended to have a drop checker. It is a good idea to always have an at-a-glance measurement of the carbon dioxide in your aquarium.
The Check Valve - The check valve is simple and essential. It attaches in-line within your CO2 tubing and permits flow in one direction only, into the aquarium. It keeps water from back-siphoning from the aquarium into your vital components, the CO2 regulator. A complete CO2 system is not complete without it.
CO2 Resistant Tubing - The pathway through which CO2 travels to the aquarium; it completes the CO2 system, bringing it together. For this reason, it is one of the most important components of the system. It is the job of the tubing to safely deliver your precious CO2 to the aquarium. This is why it is important to invest in CO2 resistant tubing, through which CO2 is not able to escape. Silicone tubing should not be used in the planted aquarium CO2 system; carbon dioxide gas is able to permeate through the walls of silicone tubing, and is wasted. So make sure to use a CO2 resistant tubing so that your aquarium gets what it requires, efficiently, and so money is not wasted on lost CO2.
The tubing connects to the brass hat of the bubble counter, on the regulator, and travels up and into the aquarium. The check valve needs to be placed in-line, within the tubing line, between the regulator and aquarium. For those regulators without a built in bubble counter, an in-line bubble counter can be secured in-line within the tubing line so that you can accurately count the number of CO2 bubbles per second entering the aquarium. One advantage to having an in-line bubble counter is that you can place it above the aquarium stand so the bubble rate can be monitored at a quick glance.
The CO2 Diffuser - Finally, we have reached the end of the complete CO2 system, the end journey of the CO2 before it is dispersed into the aquarium water. Placed inside the aquarium, at the bottom of the aquarium, the diffuser exists at the end of the tubing line. It is another very important part of the complete system as it transforms and optimizes the CO2 gas entering the aquarium into a usable form of CO2. As CO2 bubbles pass through the porous ceramic disc of the diffuser, they are diffused into streams of tiny bubbles. With an increased surface area, these tiny bubbles can be readily dissolved into the water, increasing the overall saturation of CO2 in the aquarium ecosystem for efficient plant absorption and less waste.
It is important when selecting a CO2 diffuser to invest in one that will meet the size requirements of your aquarium. Be aware of this when selecting a diffuser for your aquarium, and consider using two diffusers, one on each side of the tank, for those larger tank setups. Also for larger aquariums an inline CO2 diffuser, such as the CAL AQUA LABS 17 mm Inline CO2 Diffuser, can be used. I will get into co2 diffusion methods next.
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Methods for co2 Diffusion
Which method of diffusion should I use?
Which method is Better?
What size glass diffuser should I use?
These are questions I get all the time, but its hard to explain to folks that one is not necessarily better then the other. What is most important is which is best for your current setup and also, what fits your budget.
I will try to explain what I like to use and why I use it on my current tank setup.
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Needle Wheel Pump Diffusion for CO2.
This is a larger Needle Wheel Pump that I use on a closed loop system for a 120G tank. Its a Danner 950GPH pump with a needle wheel impeller.
By attaching the appropriate PVC fittings along with tubing fittings it's very easy to plumb into any tank of larger size.
The reason I choose needle wheel pumps on larger tanks is due to the added flow and fine mist you can achieve with one simple device.
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Ceramic Disc CO2 Diffusion.
The glass diffuser like you see above is the classic ceramic diffuser used in many folks planted tanks. They are simple to install and require no real hard plumbing work.
They will need regular maintenance, however, to get algae growth off of the ceramic plate to keep them functioning properly.
Keeping an extra diffuser on hand while the other is soaking in bleach/water or Tilex helps keep the down time to a minimum.
Placement of ceramic disc diffusers in the aquarium is very important. You want to place them far from Drop checkers, and in direct contact with the output of your filter flow. Proper placement will help CO2 mist disperse evenly around the tank.
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Inline Ceramic Disc CO2 Diffusion.
This type of diffuser is one that I most prefer with any tank under 60G.
There are several reasons why this type of diffuser works so well:
1) It is easy to plumb outside of the tank.
2) It requires very minimal maintenance due to the fact that green algae does not grow on the ceramic disc.
3) Diffusion of CO2 is much better because the mist is mixed with the pressure of the filter outflow and is distributed throughout the tank.
4) This type of in-line use has little effect on GPH of your canister filter.
A NEW Addition!!!!
This diffuser is also in inline diffuser except it can be used with any flow rate.
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The Drop Checker
1. Preparation of Indicator Solution:
The correct indicator solution is a combination of KH Standard / 4 degree KH (4 dKH) and pH indicator (Bromothymol Blue).
With drop checker in hand, turn upside down and fill the reservoir of the drop checker approximately half full (or to level manufacturer recommends) with 4 dKH. A syringe is an ideal tool to use for this. Then, add approximately 2 - 4 drops of pH indicator (Bromothymol Blue) until a strong, TRANSPARENT blue color is achieved.
The Science:
pH and pH Indicator - pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. pH indicator is a chemical detector that causes the color of the solution to change depending on pH.
KH and KH Standard - KH (Carbonate Hardness) is the measurement in degrees of carbonate and bicarbonate in the water. KH Standard is a solution with a known KH, a standard, with no other buffers other than carbonate and bicarbonates.
To measure CO2 in the aquarium, you need to have an accurate measurement of KH and pH. With a known value of KH / carbonate hardness in the indicator solution, the color of the solution will turn green when the optimal concentration of 30 ppm of CO2 is achieved in the aquarium water. A yellow or blue color indicates too much or too little CO2 in the water, respectively.
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2. Place in Aquarium and wait to observe color change:
With the correct side up, place the drop checker in the aquarium, in a visible location. After approximately one hour, you should notice a change in the color of the indicator solution. After about two (2) hours you should be able to observe the color and take an accurate measurement of the concentration of CO2 in the aquarium. For increased accuracy it is recommended to observe the color against a solid white background.
BLUE -> too little CO2 / low CO2 levels -> increase the rate of CO2
GREEN -> proper CO2 levels -> no action required
YELLOW -> too much CO2 / high CO2 levels -> decrease the rate of CO2
The Science:
The drop checker is a reservoir designed to contain an indicator solution and an airspace or air bubble. When submerged in an aquarium, the airspace eliminates contact between the indicator solution and the aquarium water.
When CO2 is injected into the aquarium, the CO2 will out gas from the aquarium water into the airspace of the drop checker. As CO2 enters the air, it is absorbed into the indicator solution. The absorption of CO2 is the result of the gas seeking a point of equilibrium, or equal distribution of CO2 in the solution and the air; the basic principle behind the function of the drop checker. As CO2 gas is absorbed into the indicator solution, it lowers the pH of the KH standard, which in turn changes the color of the pH indicator. This condition of equilibrium allows the drop checker, a simple glass reservoir, to provide a highly accurate measurement of carbon dioxide (CO2) in the planted aquarium.
This process is reversed when the injection of CO2 is decreased or zeroed, and the indicator solution contains more CO2 than the aquarium water. The CO2 will outgas from the indicator solution to seek equilibrium with the airspace and the aquarium water. This out gassing of CO2 will raise the pH of the solution and change the color of the pH indicator.
In summary, never underestimate the power of the drop checker as an accurate tool for the measurement of CO2 (when used correctly).
I hope this has been helpful. One thing that I find to be extremely helpful is to keep things simple and take things slow when setting up your pressurized co2 system.
Regards,
Orlando
Have you heard any reviews about this regulator?
http://www.aquariumplants.com/AquariumPlants_com_s_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
http://www.aquariumplants.com/AquariumPlants_com_s_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
I've got a question about the end of tank dump. I've read several reports of this happening to people and their fish being "gassed to death." I'm a little confused about how this is possible.
It is my understanding that the end of tank dump happens when the tank is nearly out of co2, and the regulator and needle valve do not appropriately control the pressure and co2 is released thereby emptying the tank. IF that is correct, whatever co2 left then goes immediately into the diffuser.
I am using this diffuser: http://www.aquariumplants.com/product_p/r500.htm so I will use it as an example. (ignore the size tank that it is good for, that is incorrect. They recently changed it.)
The co2 goes into the diffuser, where the Rio pump propels water at the bubbles breaking them up. As this happens, the water is able to absorb the co2. Water is only able to absorb so much co2 in a given period. In mine, if there is too much co2 being injected into the diffuser (either for the diffuser to handle or for the water to absorb) the co2 takes longer to diffuse. If massive amounts of co2 are released all at once, either it just takes that much longer to diffuse, or the co2 escapes and is just released without being diffused.
Given this, how is it possible to gas fish to death with an end of tank dump? Am I missing something in this whole process? If so, what? I'm at the point where I need to get another regulator to set my 120g up again, and am trying to figure out if it is really advantageous to spend 300 bucks or so on just a regulator setup. I am currently using the Milwaukie MA957 and have had no problems with it.
Thanks for the input.
Helgi
It is my understanding that the end of tank dump happens when the tank is nearly out of co2, and the regulator and needle valve do not appropriately control the pressure and co2 is released thereby emptying the tank. IF that is correct, whatever co2 left then goes immediately into the diffuser.
I am using this diffuser: http://www.aquariumplants.com/product_p/r500.htm so I will use it as an example. (ignore the size tank that it is good for, that is incorrect. They recently changed it.)
The co2 goes into the diffuser, where the Rio pump propels water at the bubbles breaking them up. As this happens, the water is able to absorb the co2. Water is only able to absorb so much co2 in a given period. In mine, if there is too much co2 being injected into the diffuser (either for the diffuser to handle or for the water to absorb) the co2 takes longer to diffuse. If massive amounts of co2 are released all at once, either it just takes that much longer to diffuse, or the co2 escapes and is just released without being diffused.
Given this, how is it possible to gas fish to death with an end of tank dump? Am I missing something in this whole process? If so, what? I'm at the point where I need to get another regulator to set my 120g up again, and am trying to figure out if it is really advantageous to spend 300 bucks or so on just a regulator setup. I am currently using the Milwaukie MA957 and have had no problems with it.
Thanks for the input.
Helgi
