My new 2600 gallon plywood tank project
- Thread starter VLDesign
- Start date
I hope VL Doesn't mind me trying to answer this one. I used PA for my tank also. If you simply mix the two parts together the epoxy is VERY thick. When you use a thinner (i.e. isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol) it applies much more easily but as VL has indicated MUCH less product thickness. Personally I did 3 coats with thinner and (knock on wood) to date I've had zero leaks. I can apprieciate VL's situation though and thicker is definitely better overall.
I'm very sorry to hear about this brother...
I will admit though, I don't recall you putting floor joists in between the bottom Floor Rails (ones running lengthwise) even if you you have 2 layers of .75" ply, it still may be putting to much pressure on the bottom floor. Ultimately pulling on everything creating cracks that start leaking...
In retrospect, you may have had better luck with adding floor joists and gluing each of the 2x4 rows on top of the other and then Gluing and Screwing the plywood to the Floor joists and the Walls. that would ahve made everything For Sure Solid enough. JMO though.
So, being that said, even though it would take some work and more money possibly, would it be possible to pull the plywood off of the floor and add floor joists? Say every 12"? The Glue the subfloor plywood back down and expoxy that?
I know that it sounds like a MAJOR P.I.A. But I see no other way to guarantee that you will have a safe future for a finished basement.... Unless you either add a rubber pond liner of some sort or Fiberglass the entire tank!
I will admit though, I don't recall you putting floor joists in between the bottom Floor Rails (ones running lengthwise) even if you you have 2 layers of .75" ply, it still may be putting to much pressure on the bottom floor. Ultimately pulling on everything creating cracks that start leaking...
In retrospect, you may have had better luck with adding floor joists and gluing each of the 2x4 rows on top of the other and then Gluing and Screwing the plywood to the Floor joists and the Walls. that would ahve made everything For Sure Solid enough. JMO though.
So, being that said, even though it would take some work and more money possibly, would it be possible to pull the plywood off of the floor and add floor joists? Say every 12"? The Glue the subfloor plywood back down and expoxy that?
I know that it sounds like a MAJOR P.I.A. But I see no other way to guarantee that you will have a safe future for a finished basement.... Unless you either add a rubber pond liner of some sort or Fiberglass the entire tank!
I've been studying a lot of DIY tank builds on line. I’m kinda planning one myself. I noticed the plywood builds seem to fail when they are over 3 feet deep. The builds 3 feet and shallower seem to hold water. This build is just a leak issue and most likely not structural. I think the deeper builds cause the wood to flex just enough to cause the fiberglass paint to crack. Anything deeper than three feet needs proper fiberglass coating throughout the inside of the tank. My advice, stay shallow on your build.
The bottom isn't flexing that is for sure.. There are joists front to back under the tank.
Bigdaddy was right on with his answer and no I don't mind.
This is just a leak issue and not structural.
And sadly I think when I do the leak test and it proves the leak is in the window area I will cut them out and recoat the window frame with the last quart of PA that I have.
When I go back to reseal the windows I may just use regular GE I as I found it stick just fine to the sanded acrvlic. It also bonds to the Dow795 equally well. The GE will only delay me another week to cure vs 3 with the Dow.
Thinking of leak testing tommorrow after work. That gives the silicone patch 2 full days to cure. It's thin so that should be plenty of time?!?
Bigdaddy was right on with his answer and no I don't mind.
This is just a leak issue and not structural.
And sadly I think when I do the leak test and it proves the leak is in the window area I will cut them out and recoat the window frame with the last quart of PA that I have.
When I go back to reseal the windows I may just use regular GE I as I found it stick just fine to the sanded acrvlic. It also bonds to the Dow795 equally well. The GE will only delay me another week to cure vs 3 with the Dow.
Thinking of leak testing tommorrow after work. That gives the silicone patch 2 full days to cure. It's thin so that should be plenty of time?!?
sorry to read about the leaks, hope you don't have to pull the acrylic.
in my build i had problems with leaks due to flexing but i just couldn't fix it with pond armor so i coated the whole thing in liquid rubber up to the silicone. it has held now for almost a year and that includes moving it to a new house.
just a idea if you use all your pond armor and still have leaks ,liquid rubber was cheap and worked for my issues at least
in my build i had problems with leaks due to flexing but i just couldn't fix it with pond armor so i coated the whole thing in liquid rubber up to the silicone. it has held now for almost a year and that includes moving it to a new house.
just a idea if you use all your pond armor and still have leaks ,liquid rubber was cheap and worked for my issues at least
VL, I think you are on the right track with it being the windows. On my 3000 gal. build I used PA and dow 832 with acrylic windows. Its like Deja Vu all over again; I experienced the same thing you have. multiple coats of PA, still leaks, doubts, frustration, etc. Its not your construction, its not flexing, its not pin holes, its not the water depth, its not the Pond Armor! Its that acrylic doesnt seal well with the silicone sealant. Period. If you decide to take out the windows to try to reseal, Dow makes a primer to use for difficult surfaces; (Dow Corning PR-1200, RTV Prime Coat) you could try that. I did not use it, and my tank still has slow intermittent leaks after almost 3 years in operation, but my tank is outside so I dont care about the small leaks. When its time for a major recoating/maintenance, I will remove the windows and use the primer.
Good luck, and dont let the set backs get you down!
PS: A Dow rep. recommended the primer back when I was working on my tank, but I didnt listen. I was reluctant because it sounds like nasty stuff (strong fumes, etc.).
Good luck, and dont let the set backs get you down!
PS: A Dow rep. recommended the primer back when I was working on my tank, but I didnt listen. I was reluctant because it sounds like nasty stuff (strong fumes, etc.).
I am pulling for you VL, I have recently bought 3gal of black Pond Armor for my 2000g plus aquarium project so I am also nervous.
I will be using glass though and not acrylic so I hope I do not have the same issues.
GL mate.
