The Dreaded Aurnati Fungus
- Thread starter bottles
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I was doing some research on this and it seems the culprit is called Achlya klebsiana related to Saprolegnia. Saprolegnia thrive in lower pH water, especially under 6.0, although any water under 7.2 provides a habitat that can support Saprolegnia growth. Keeping slightly more alkaline water is both good treatment and prevention for this. The good news is the treatment we are currently employing is the correct approach. However what is fighting us here and most likely everyone else who’s fish can not be successfully treated and ultimately succumbed to this is the water chemistry these fish are kept in, or perhaps this in combination with the wrong treatment. With your Ph at 6.7 and Kh at 3 it is an ideal breeding ground for the fungus and simultaneously renders the treatment lass effective due to the sensitivity of the fish and the increased toxicity of the MG at these levels. My suggestion is to increase mineralization, try to get the Kh up to about 30 and the Ph to about 7 and you will be able to knock this out quickly with less danger to the fish in the process. If in the future you want to return to your present levels I would suggest using a UV unit on the tank.
In short this is not some deadly form of fungus that infects these fish, it is the fungus combined with the water chemistry that is the deadly combination which makes treatment seem next to impossible. Adjust the water and the treatment works perfectly.
In short this is not some deadly form of fungus that infects these fish, it is the fungus combined with the water chemistry that is the deadly combination which makes treatment seem next to impossible. Adjust the water and the treatment works perfectly.
Great info, Aquanero. 
I added some buffer with the water change yesterday because I remembered you mentioning the MG would be less toxic with greater hardness. I'll continue to raise the KH and PH slowly when I treat again this evening. I don't know how to raise the KH to 30 without raising the PH to 8 or so at the same time. I'd prefer to not raise the PH past 7.4.
I'll definitely want to bring the water back down after this is over, so I'll probably pick up a UV sterilizer.
Two of the fish (I believe both are females) seem untouched by the fungus. The ones that are infected still seem to be swimming and behaving normally, so hopefully it's still not to late.
Thanks for all the help.
I added some buffer with the water change yesterday because I remembered you mentioning the MG would be less toxic with greater hardness. I'll continue to raise the KH and PH slowly when I treat again this evening. I don't know how to raise the KH to 30 without raising the PH to 8 or so at the same time. I'd prefer to not raise the PH past 7.4.
I'll definitely want to bring the water back down after this is over, so I'll probably pick up a UV sterilizer.
Two of the fish (I believe both are females) seem untouched by the fungus. The ones that are infected still seem to be swimming and behaving normally, so hopefully it's still not to late.
Thanks for all the help.
Malachite green with formalin works instantly, for more fancier treatment pm me.
Sent from my GT-I9100G using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
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If you don't mind, you can post the info in this thread. This is a pretty common problem with Channa Aurantimaculata imports, so your info might be able to help myself as well as someone else down the road as well.
Thanks
Formalin is about 40% formaldehyde, I know of this a treatment for fungus infections but was hesatant about suggestiong it with the OPs water perameters. Triple sulfa will buffer the toxic level the MG can reach in soft water the formaldehyde will not. Can you post the treatment along with the water perameters it was used in? I'm always open to learning new treatments so I'm curious about this.
bottles, you might want to Google "how to raise KH without raising ph".
The search returns from Planted Tanks & Discus forums seem the least applicable to your situation, as they all become examinations of the OPs water for those 2 reasons, and not simply how to primarily up KH.
one thread about the subject is at:
http://www.oscarfishlover.com/forum/53-water-chemistry/130046-raising-kh?limitstart=0&start=10
Supposedly, products sold as "KH+" which must first be mixed with water before adding to pond/tank water are best for this, as all liquid products also raise ph accordingly. Also, products are designed to accomplish this more often for Ponds than for tank use.
I'm just tossing thoughts out... do your own research- I'm somewhat of a dummy ;-)
All I did was a quick search & cursory read. You might get better info on your own, such as a product name to buy.
The search returns from Planted Tanks & Discus forums seem the least applicable to your situation, as they all become examinations of the OPs water for those 2 reasons, and not simply how to primarily up KH.
one thread about the subject is at:
http://www.oscarfishlover.com/forum/53-water-chemistry/130046-raising-kh?limitstart=0&start=10
Supposedly, products sold as "KH+" which must first be mixed with water before adding to pond/tank water are best for this, as all liquid products also raise ph accordingly. Also, products are designed to accomplish this more often for Ponds than for tank use.
I'm just tossing thoughts out... do your own research- I'm somewhat of a dummy ;-)
All I did was a quick search & cursory read. You might get better info on your own, such as a product name to buy.
Bottles
I don't mind posting for eeveryone benefit. But things which have worked for me so far are really experimental And wouldn't want to openly advice the same considering the risk of immunity developing.
I currently am tasked with rearing over 3 dozen specimen of different species for a, public aquaria display of Channidae section.
Stick with the generic recommendation i have made. If the infection gets beyond that , let me know few other treatments are possible.
Here's a tip , autanri are no where near that sensitive with salt and chemicals as mentioned on Web.
Projectile
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Thanks, I'll definitely do a bit more research on this. That's a very interesting thread. I use seachem alkaline buffer on some of my other tanks and I'm using it now on this tank as well. It does raise PH though which seems to be the problem that others were mentioning in that thread.
Thanks again.
