Question About Building Glass Aquarium
- Thread starter Lepisosteus
- Start date
I've only seen them built the way you do it, can't be easy doing it the other way. Not sure if there would be a difference in strength.
I had a 135 gallon that I just gave away over the Christmas break that had the sides on the outside and the front and back on top. Thinking about it the outside would probably have equal strength but I can't be sure
Isn't that called a false bottom tank? I think they are more prone to failure, could be wrong I don't know much about it.
millerkid519
As for the sides, I think it's more a visual thing but the longer panes do get more pressure exerted on them so maybe not.
millerkid519
As for the sides, I think it's more a visual thing but the longer panes do get more pressure exerted on them so maybe not.
the longer panel does get more pressure but wouldn't the pressure at the seam be the same whether it's on the outside or inside?Isn't that called a false bottom tank? I think they are more prone to failure, could be wrong I don't know much about it.
As for the sides, I think it's more a visual thing but the longer panes do get more pressure exerted on them so maybe not.
from quick research false bottom looks to be what most vivariums are, where the substrate is elevated so water collects underneath. For the strength of glass to be on top of the panel as to beside, the amount of surface area in contact with the silicone is the same given all glass thicknesses around the aquarium are the same. The only difference I could see is that when the glass sits on top there is a downward force exerted on another panel of glass while if the pane was beside the bottom all the strain from the downward force of the glass panel would be applied to the silicone. If the bottom is perfectly level this force would not make a difference as the normal force causes cancellation.
Silicone has several different measurements of strength, two of these are tensile and shear. One of them applies to glass on top of the bottom panel, the other applies to the glass around the sides. If I recall correctly shear is the glass on top, tensile is around the sides, however my memory on it is fuzzy.
In any case, these two numbers are nearly always different, though not by huge amounts. Usually the silicone does have more strength with a floating bottom. It is a bit more difficult to build, but with some prep it isn't that different.
Something else to consider, with a floating bottom the stand only needs to support the outside edge and you will not want to use styrofoam under the tank. If you build the sides on top of the bottom you need the stand to fully support the tank with foam between.
In any case, these two numbers are nearly always different, though not by huge amounts. Usually the silicone does have more strength with a floating bottom. It is a bit more difficult to build, but with some prep it isn't that different.
Something else to consider, with a floating bottom the stand only needs to support the outside edge and you will not want to use styrofoam under the tank. If you build the sides on top of the bottom you need the stand to fully support the tank with foam between.
The floating bottom design is actually prone to failure for several reasons.
The most obvious is the weight of all the water in the tank is being held by the silicone on the bottom pane of glass.
A not so obvious reason for failure is the fact that, in addition to the water weight, decor and substrate, any upward force would have an equal stress factor....like when people put styrofoam under their tanks.
Placing the sides of the tank on top of the bottom piece actually gives you more surface area to apply silicone.
Placing the end glass inside the front and rear panels is a matter of opinion and I am of the opinion that strength isn't the reason, moreover, it is the fact that glass is purchased in standard lengths and having to remove an inch from a 36", 48", 60", 72"....etc...is more work. It is also my opinion that the exposed edges of glass is better viewed from the side than the front. Everything that is done to commercial built tanks is done for two reasons mainly:
-Build cost
-Liability
Liability is a risk factor that determines how the manufacturer builds the tank and they go by industry standard and experienced past failures. The point is, if you are building a tank on your own, it would be wise to "copy" the building standards of current manufacturers. ..they have paid their dues most likely and so-to-speak.
The most obvious is the weight of all the water in the tank is being held by the silicone on the bottom pane of glass.
A not so obvious reason for failure is the fact that, in addition to the water weight, decor and substrate, any upward force would have an equal stress factor....like when people put styrofoam under their tanks.
Placing the sides of the tank on top of the bottom piece actually gives you more surface area to apply silicone.
Placing the end glass inside the front and rear panels is a matter of opinion and I am of the opinion that strength isn't the reason, moreover, it is the fact that glass is purchased in standard lengths and having to remove an inch from a 36", 48", 60", 72"....etc...is more work. It is also my opinion that the exposed edges of glass is better viewed from the side than the front. Everything that is done to commercial built tanks is done for two reasons mainly:
-Build cost
-Liability
Liability is a risk factor that determines how the manufacturer builds the tank and they go by industry standard and experienced past failures. The point is, if you are building a tank on your own, it would be wise to "copy" the building standards of current manufacturers. ..they have paid their dues most likely and so-to-speak.
