Yes, that is for sure what I am doing. lol I was hoping that you would go away before this thread became a bigger clusterphuck than it already is. But at this point, I guess it doesn't matter.
Seeing as you chose to throw down the gauntlet, allow me to explain.
I'll actually use past threads, and comments by you, squint, to prove my point.
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/metals-in-tap-water.704350/#post-7939909
Being closer to the treatment plant might mean higher chlorine levels.
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...e-or-not-to-dechlorinate.699847/#post-7887381
Chlorine is very reactive and will be neutralized by combining with organics. That's why people with chlorine in their tap water can often get away with small water changes without dechlorinator
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...ater-change-implications.699140/#post-7879337
As I understand it, chloramine is less reactive than chlorine so you can't rely on organics in the tank to react to it.
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So you clearly understand the concept, but in your haste to attempt to discredit me, again, you must have forgot one of the primary differences between chlorine, and chloramine. That being chloramine does not react nearly as much to organics in a distribution system, compared to chlorine.
The fact that chloramine doesn't easily dissipate, such as chlorine does, is also one of the primary reasons that many water treatment facilities now use chloramine as their primary source of water disinfectant.
So someone on MFK that lives 10 miles from their source of water treatment, and their municipality is on 2 ppm max chlorine residual, could be receiving less than 1 ppm chlorine at their tap. If sprayed into a Rubbermaid tub and allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes, the residual could be close to zero.
Flip that same scenario to chloramine @ 2 ppm, and chances are at mile 10 your water will still be at 2 ppm. Ditto to if one sprays it into a tub, and allows it to sit for 48 hours. Still 2 ppm, or very close to it.
Hope that helps.