2000 gallon indoor Build

[wednesday13]

D Dead-pool , yeah, id go with regular 2x4 over the EMT… u can paint the 2x4 or even wrap them in extra pond liner to keep em from rotting out. Id paint ur whole wood frame anyway to keep it lasting longer. Thats one mistake i made on my last pond build like this. Wet floors made the wood rot out and i tore it down. Structurally it was fine, had to get rid of the black mold tho being indoors. My walls were also hollow.

 

[Dead-pool]

D Dead-pool , yeah, id go with regular 2x4 over the EMT… u can paint the 2x4 or even wrap them in extra pond liner to keep em from rotting out. Id paint ur whole wood frame anyway to keep it lasting longer. Thats one mistake i made on my last pond build like this. Wet floors made the wood rot out and i tore it down. Structurally it was fine, had to get rid of the black mold tho being indoors. My walls were also hollow.

any particular type of paint you’d recommend for the brace 2x4 and the sides to prevent mold?

i am going to do the doubles wall green house panels for lids. It’s a climate controlled space and i run a dehumidifier so hopefully that helps with mold prevention. I’m hoping to keep this running for decades if i can.

 

[wednesday13]

any particular type of paint you’d recommend for the brace 2x4 and the sides to prevent mold?

i am going to do the doubles wall green house panels for lids. It’s a climate controlled space and i run a dehumidifier so hopefully that helps with mold prevention. I’m hoping to keep this running for decades if i can.

Smart choice on the green house type lids. Same thing as twin wall polycarb i was talkin about. As for paint, the water based drylock works well. Any kind of latex or oil based will help the cause tho. Can even use some type of deck sealer if u like the look of stained wood more. Might look nice stained/deck sealed. Im always partial to rustoleum black everything but thats just me lol… the price of that has gone up drastically over the yrs.

 

[Fishman Dave]

If your gonna insulate the floor, any reason you have not screwed a 4x2 from mid left to mid right wall then screwed each 4x 2 together in the middle, this would stop the bottom bowing out at the worst point ant you could insulate either side of the 4x2 anyway.
Did a similar build but used 4x4 as uprights, 4x2 as top and bottom frame then boarded the inside and outside and filled the gaps with insulation.
your biggest issue is obviously gonna be mid way along the length at the bottom , which is where I would connect front to back if all the 4x2s are screwed together.
Like jjohnwm mentioned though, I hope your floor is up to it! Mine is on a reinforced concrete garage base , but even that was only designed for a 2 tonne car! Not 6-8 tonne pond.

 

[FINWIN]

Amazing.

A few questions.
Are you building for side view windows?
Are you concerned with the pond being so close to the garage door? Seems like temps on that end might fluctuate due to the door vs insulated wall.
Where is your drainage line going to be?
Does your water require dechlor? If so how do you address the volume of water?

Sorry if you addressed this in earler posts, I'm catching up.

 

[Dead-pool]

Thank you Wednesday!!

If your gonna insulate the floor, any reason you have not screwed a 4x2 from mid left to mid right wall then screwed each 4x 2 together in the middle, this would stop the bottom bowing out at the worst point ant you could insulate either side of the 4x2 anyway.
Did a similar build but used 4x4 as uprights, 4x2 as top and bottom frame then boarded the inside and outside and filled the gaps with insulation.
your biggest issue is obviously gonna be mid way along the length at the bottom , which is where I would connect front to back if all the 4x2s are screwed together.
Like jjohnwm mentioned though, I hope your floor is up to it! Mine is on a reinforced concrete garage base , but even that was only designed for a 2 tonne car! Not 6-8 tonne pond.

honestly i’m not sure what you mean. There is only the galvanized banding on the bottom. I wihs i would’ve done 2x4s but from what people have said it should be fine.

As far as the weight from a concrete standpoint this is a 4000psi garage floor that’s already over engineered. (Former owner was engineer who helped deisgn the apache helicopter so smart guy)

With the footprint of the tank being 12k inches and weight 16k lbs. there is 1.33 psi on a 4000psi floor.

Me standing one foot on my toes is a higher psi thank the tank will generate if that makes sense.

Amazing.

A few questions.
Are you building for side view windows?
Are you concerned with the pond being so close to the garage door? Seems like temps on that end might fluctuate due to the door vs insulated wall.
Where is your drainage line going to be?
Does your water require dechlor? If so how do you address the volume of water?

Sorry if you addressed this in earler posts, I'm catching up.

-there will be no windows. Due to fear of leak and a little cost.
-the room is climate controlled and the exterior walls are 8” think with insulation. 700 sqft room has a 2 ton AC unit which is way more than enough.
-no drain line there will be a pump system working the auto water change system.
-my water doesn’t need dechlor. I use a drip on all my current systems with no issues. I’ll add seachem safe when i fill just as a precaution.

 

[Dead-pool]

wednesday13

so the pond liner will be delivered tomorrow. In preparation i’m wondering if the bottom needs more support from possible pressure outwards.

i could run some all thread in 3 or 4 lengths across the bottom l. It would be covered up by the foam.

i could also add a handful of 1/2” boards that i kregg screw into the sides. Using 1/2” insulation so i could fill in the gaps then add another layer over the top to prevent wood touching the liner.

I guess i’m in that panicked state of last preparation to prevent a blowout lol

 

[wednesday13]

wednesday13

so the pond liner will be delivered tomorrow. In preparation i’m wondering if the bottom needs more support from possible pressure outwards.

i could run some all thread in 3 or 4 lengths across the bottom l. It would be covered up by the foam.

i could also add a handful of 1/2” boards that i kregg screw into the sides. Using 1/2” insulation so i could fill in the gaps then add another layer over the top to prevent wood touching the liner.

I guess i’m in that panicked state of last preparation to prevent a blowout lol

View attachment 1515723

Def. not goin to blow out IMO… i do like the idea of boards across the bottom kregg screwed in tho to prevent any worry or potential bowing. Overkill never hurts. Any 2x4’s left over? Can double up the foam to cover the 2x4’s easy enough. One at the middle for sure… maybe 3 total spaced out should b plenty.

 

[wednesday13]

In my previous post im referring to the 2x4’s being laid flat so u only have 1.5” to cover with foam. Only other tip i can give is take ur time with the liner. U’ll be surprised how heavy it is… i did a 15’x20’ size by myself and it was a back breaker … any help u can get moving it around will be beneficial for sure. Its tough to get the bottom seam and corners all as flush as possible. Once u get the hang of 1 corner tho ull b ok. Id recommend not stapling it down until its full of water also. U can put a few inches of water in it to help flatten the bottom out while ur working on getting everything tight.

 

[thebiggerthebetter]

As built (the screwed 2x4s form solid walls) and with the cross braces planned, I wouldn't think there was any cause for worry. If you are a worrier and a perfectionist, overbuilding may be quite worth it for your peace of mind.

I'd be uncomfortable with metal braces over my pond, EMT or all thread or any other, unless stainless steel fish tank grade, because of condensation dripping and splashing. I'd consider plastic - acrylic strips or PVC pipe or at least protecting the metal braces if not SS. Maybe composite decking material, not sure.