No #4 is a solvent and it evaporates. Its made for injecting into seams, becomes gooey and melts the acrylic together.
Used Acrylic tank bubbling...please help
- Thread starter onsloth
- Start date
It went into some of the seams. But still bubbles
Just slightly less. I tried on outside and inside with 23 gauge needle and 27 gauge.
Maybe I can do it again tomorrow? Lol
Lol I really wanted to avoid 40.
usually only have 1 shot to redo any areas like that. Might be able to try again and fill in as much as possible. The top seam there isnt as much of a worry as the side seam. You can use #16 to put another small seal on the inside. Itell work for a small bit of extra assurance if you dont want to use #40. #40 is alot stronger tho.It went into some of the seams. But still bubbles
Just slightly less. I tried on outside and inside with 23 gauge needle and 27 gauge.
Maybe I can do it again tomorrow? Lol
Lol I really wanted to avoid 40.
What's up with other people saying 16 can make a seal that's good worse?
I was watching a Ohio rescue video where they used 16.
Sorry I'm harassing you so much with this lol.
I also saw some Weldon 42 on hand locally
No worries man… #42 is the same glue as #40, it comes in a cartridge, uses a special gun that mixes the 2 parts when u squeeze the trigger. Kinda like the cheap 2 part epoxies u can get for crafts.
#16 cant really do any damage. #3 or #4 solvent can tho. Say if u were to try and use it on a tank full of water… it could weaken the seam and explode. Really no harm of solvent on a dry tank IME… #16 is actually just solvent with acrylic melted into it for a thicker consistency. This process makes it weaker also.
im farmiliar with the OFR video fixing the cube tank with #16 and square rod. Same process i recommended if u dont want to use #40.
I used #16 in my early days of repairing/refurbing tanks. Its OK… some repairs lasted me 10+yrs… others failed pretty quickly and had to be redone using #40. #40 alone is stronger than using 16 and rod. Solvent and rod is actually stronger than 16 as well. Takes a bit more skill to get it right. U need a degree of pressure to keep the rod tight enough to adhere properly with solvent. With 16 and 40 u can pretty much just put down glue and slap ur rod in lol… 40 can actually fill gaps up to 1/4” its basically liquid acrylic. Its really not hard to work with. Once u mix ur first batch ull b fine
…
I have only resealed 1 acrylic tank, following suggestions given by Wednesday13 here, using Weld on 40, tilt’n’pour method, on a 6’ tank. Did not need to add rods.
It went perfectly, no problems, and easily. Secret was to have a space where the tank could be tilted over a futon, in various positions, doing one seam at a time over several days. Have no had any issues.
It went perfectly, no problems, and easily. Secret was to have a space where the tank could be tilted over a futon, in various positions, doing one seam at a time over several days. Have no had any issues.
I'll have to see if I have a digital scale.
But basically 100ml to 5 ml
I do have a lot of various sizes syringes (vet Field)
So is this right 100cc with 5 cc of the two Weldon componentsNo worries man… #42 is the same glue as #40, it comes in a cartridge, uses a special gun that mixes the 2 parts when u squeeze the trigger. Kinda like the cheap 2 part epoxies u can get for crafts.
#16 cant really do any damage. #3 or #4 solvent can tho. Say if u were to try and use it on a tank full of water… it could weaken the seam and explode. Really no harm of solvent on a dry tank IME… #16 is actually just solvent with acrylic melted into it for a thicker consistency. This process makes it weaker also.
im farmiliar with the OFR video fixing the cube tank with #16 and square rod. Same process i recommended if u dont want to use #40.
I used #16 in my early days of repairing/refurbing tanks. Its OK… some repairs lasted me 10+yrs… others failed pretty quickly and had to be redone using #40. #40 alone is stronger than using 16 and rod. Solvent and rod is actually stronger than 16 as well. Takes a bit more skill to get it right. U need a degree of pressure to keep the rod tight enough to adhere properly with solvent. With 16 and 40 u can pretty much just put down glue and slap ur rod in lol… 40 can actually fill gaps up to 1/4” its basically liquid acrylic. Its really not hard to work with. Once u mix ur first batch ull b fine
Correct… ratio will be the same no matter what ur measuring with. 100ml to 5ml… 100g to 5g… you can use measuring cups/spoons also if u do the conversions. Can google how many ml are in a tsp/tbsp/cup. I used to just use a measuring spoon for the hardener and a mixing cup marked with ml for the other part.
